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Saw this clip and thought it’s really cool

Prestone back in the day made a back flush kit that hooked to the heater hose connections. Thermostat had to be removed . Run the chemical in the block for a set period and back flush again. Worked amazingly well. My two cents from an old guy.

Thanks gents. I went ahead and ordered that adaptor and and a Marshal 1.5” oil pressure gauge that I’ll mount down by the pressure sender. Sounds like it’s not a problem but it’s a easy pease of mind fix. As far as the temp being higher than normal. The car was idling for a good bit and revved up siting in my garage while setting the timing. I’m missing the lower half of my fan shroud also which could be a factor. When driving it seemed lower, I think I have a 190 F thermostat in there. I’ve been tossing the idea of putting electric fans on the radiator to increase airflow, but haven’t done my research.

I think anyone who's spent time working on these cars will appreciate how each component is made or engineered. Having pulled apart the OEM AM radio I was fascinated by the engineering in the mechanical tuner and how intricate it all was (before all that kind of thing was digitised), same for the Harada Antenna and even the combination switch for the headlamps etc.. once you've pulled it apart and repaired it, you gain an appreciation for what went into making the product. Especially considering this was all pre computer aided design. The Rally Clock is next level in terms of the oscillator box, I have had several repaired by Ron at ZClocks and I find them as fascinating piece of technology - albeit temperamental.

Sometimes I just imagine what they did back in the old days, but I have only limited knowledge about history, only people who told me about WW2 was my grandparents but both of them were not engineers. I have some books about Mitsubishi Zero fighter. Very interesting to read , it is hard to imagine how they made tons of parts , assembled them and transported them for making so many aircrafts and ships and weapons, under the unusual circumstances. Japanese didn’t have much resources (still today) , towards the end of the war , materials were going downgraded, quality of the finished products also went bad , naturally. By the way , I did dry fitting of the Nissan sports option exhaust system, I am wondering the steering rod from the LHD 240Z would possibly obstruct the pipes . I hope not … Kats

Thank you for following up. It's good to know the resolution.

Just to close this out, I have everything back together and working correctly. Simply a matter of getting all the wiring properly routed and cleaning up all the connectors. I'll tell you what though, it sure was easier 30 years ago to do all this under the dash diagnosis. Thanks

I got the exhaust finished this morning. Went with 2.25" pipe to keep a little bit of the low end torque. Plus this car will likely never have side draft carbs, bigger cam, Robello, etc. Used the Magnaflow 10425 in the middle, with a V-band clamp behind it. I was going to use an oval turbo style at the rear, but the guy talked me into using a 6 inch round 14" long MagnaFlow 12615 instead. Said it would be a little quieter and wouldn't have to mount it at a weird angle. They didn't have much of a selection for old school tailpipes, but ended up with this stainless tip, which they found in their old stock. And no U-shaped clamp showing out the back. 👍 It sounds awesome! Not a tinny sound, but deeper. Pretty loud at the high end, but pleasantly quiet at cruising speed while being able to enjoy the radio. Perfect for an old guy. And it does seem to pull harder going through the gears with the header, at least by the seat of my pants. I may have to upload a driving video. 😉

You are correct. My mistake. It’s my throttle body that calculates to 70mm. My own injectors are 42#. *I bear no responsibility for mistaken judgement on days I get up at 3am to take one of our visiting kids to the airport… LOL!

Jeff, Thanks for the heads up on the remflex gasket, worked out perfectly.

I found the PN KL1669 and 410581-3 for garrett on the turbo tag. I think I found a CHRA that should work for about 300$ Garrett TB0306 CHRA Cartridge 410581-0007 (invasionautoproducts.com) I am using this as a cross NISSAN410581-000314420P9000CHRAN/ATB0306USE 410581-0007 This is turning into quite a research process to run down the needed part.

I ended up getting new injectors. These are 35lb and they have a traditional 20 degree cone spray pattern. Prior I have a v pattern designed for DOHC motors. Squirting at two valves. Hopefully the work a little better. They are slightly longer. But I got them to work.

If I were going to try to flush a block out. Take the head off and use a prressure washer through the top of the deck and the water pump holes. Messy but you'll be amazed at what comes out.

I found this label at the back of the wrapping, it says 95/03/04 (1995 March 04th) .This stamp could mean this windshield were delivered to Hiroshima region soon after it was made. So the markings on the windshield would very much say February 1994 . What do you think of it? Kats

The rule of thumb I heard is 10PSI per 1K RPM. Of course, without a mechanical gauge, it's difficult to know for sure. If you're worried enough about it, you could get an adapter like this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11217 and add a 1/8 NPT mechanical gauge.

We can help with rebuilding your factory turbo if you are interested. Typical turn around time is about 6 weeks. Here is our web link: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic18d/10-2103

Very much all of the above. Sawzall where we could because its quickest/safest. Drilled spot welds, then followed with hammer and chisel where trying to preserve the old stuff. Angle grinder with a cutting wheel where we had to. Dirty work, but it goes a lot faster after you get your methods down..

Grab them while you can. These parts aren’t going to be available forever.

I replaced the shifter boot and then the E-Brake boots and I bought them from Redlinegoods.com and I had a color problem but thats fixed and I thought I'd post the finished pictures. The shifter boot is made out or leather and the original is made out of vinyl, so if and when you think you'd like to do this, there are 8 little clips that hold the shifter boot on the underside of the console, you'll need to take them to a vise and open them up using a screwdriver, or some other leverage type tool ( The new leather is thicker than the Vinyl ) and I didn't want to remove the console, so once it's loose, I put a cardboard box under the back of the console and it will hold it up so you can install the boot, then just lower it back down and screw it back together. And I then decided it looked odd only the shifter boot being a different color so I ordered a E-brake boot from the same company. Now the difference here is the original boot has push-snaps to hold it to the carpet on the tunnel, but Redlinegoods.com can't do the snap-clips. So if you want to replace the boot with snaps, I can tell you what you'll need and where to get them, ( it is not a big deal, and they are pretty cheap) But I did mine and this is what the finished product looks like :

What about a T3 rebuild kit Dave? After the 5 speed rebuild you did, the turbo should be a piece of cake.. Make certain the oil feed line is in good shape or replace it.. One of the big causes of turbo failure. https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Charger-Repair-Rebuild-Garrett/dp/B07SCGSTS4?th=1

Here's a photo of the electronic flasher relay in my 73. You can see the ground wire I added on the 3rd terminal.

Yeah, coolant condition took me by surprise. I used that premix stuff, which I no longer use. I see a flush coming soon.

That's very kind of you Kats. Thank you. Japanese engineering of the 19th and 20th centuries is a fascinating topic, mixed up with all kinds of politics and social history. A period of rapid changes with extreme highs and lows. I am intrigued by it.

Hi , this is the front windshield for S30 series cars . 72631-E4100 is a tinted glass which was applied to all S30 cars except PS30-SB ( Fairlady Z432-R ) and 1969 HLS30 and HS30 .There might be some exceptions . I checked the secret codes , this windshield could be made either February 1974 or 1984 or 1994 or 2004 or 2014 . The part number label is not the earliest type for S30 series cars . Also it is not the later type . So I guess this could be made either 1984 or 1994 . Kats

Hi , this is an old thread , but I want to activate this forum again , to understand when the windshields were made . Have we discussed it before ? Our cars have ASAHI glasses , each glass has each stamps. Here is a decoding method for our glasses. Using the method, my rear gate glass maybe made in February 1970 . Kats