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Not much for Datsun stuff there. I did find this Harada antenna I know it is not from a Z but looks close in size and shape. I tried looking up the part number but did not find much. Anyone seen this one before and know the application? $10 I couldn't pass it up. I also ran across this truck tool kit with a new lug wrench and jack handle, the other part seems to be missing. It did have the paper in there though, and the bag is in good shape. Again $10 I could pass it up.

Sounds perfectly normal to me. L series engines always have valve chatter…..especially with a higher lift cam. I asked the Z Doc about this when he used to build my heads…..he said its the nature of the beast. You might be trumpeting it through the thin headers too. Enjoy it, drive it, L series engines are hard to break…,.believe me I’ve tried LOL.

That's very kind of you Kats. Thank you. Japanese engineering of the 19th and 20th centuries is a fascinating topic, mixed up with all kinds of politics and social history. A period of rapid changes with extreme highs and lows. I am intrigued by it.

Follow up to this. I removed the front carb and recentered the butterfly ever so slightly to make it close completely. There was a very slight gap on the bottom half of the butterfly plate. You really couldn't see it unless you put the carb up to the light and looked through. I didn't think it would make a difference, but sure enough it did. The car will now idle as low as I like.

Hey 87mj! I only live about 4 miles from Gas City speedway. Update: Saturday I checked float level and set them a 9/16. Pulled both carbs to verify the throttle blades were closing all the way. Reinstalled both carbs but left off all the linkage including choke cables. Fired it up and had to actually turn the idle screws to get it to idle at 800 rpm. Reinstalled all the linkage and still have good idle so evidently it was linkage related but I can’t see anything different. Time to start putting some miles on it!

Couldn't tell, I looked back but I don't think you mentioned which coil you were using. Maybe in your other thread. I had a vague memory of a similar thread (among many, tach problems are common) and found it. Post #29 is the one.

I have a few of those too. There are three wires. One ground. One comes from the door pin switch. The other is just 12V to the light so it will come on when you push the lens. If you swap the wires over one at a time you should be fine. You could also pull the fuse, or disconnect the battery if you like.

Yeah Eiji said it sounds normal too. I appreciate the reassurance. I'll just drive it and enjoy it.

Start with the wiring diagram from the FSM: It shows one wire coming from the fuse box: blue. There is another wire coming from the resistor: blue/white. The wiring diagram shows this as yellow/white. Finally there is a ground wire. From this approach, the first thing to check is quality of the ground. Measure resistance to ground on connector on the dash harness side at the black wire. Also make sure there is no resistance from the connector on the gauge to the gauge body. Clean the connector with Caig Deoxit while you're at it. Next, as I stated before, check the resistance from the blue/white (or yellow/white) wire at the dash connector to the negative post of the coil. You may need to make an extended lead with an alligator clip to reach. You can build your own probe with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Multimeter-Stackable-Connectors-Adapters/dp/B07C535GBD. Also make sure the dash to engine harness connectors are clean.

Y'all were right I had the wrong numbers! Getting Old...bad Eyes. Laughs.

I'm trying to achieve nearly "perfect panels" on the 240z I am restoring. I had many months where I couldn't move forward because the hardware was off to be plated. Recently, I received the fender bolts, washers, etc. So, I have mounted the fenders. I used close cell foam in the locations that the factory used foam strips on the inner fender support and backside of the fender. Interestingly, this weather stripping caused the flat expanse of the fender behind the front wheel wheel to bow out slightly. Something I have learned with these cars is that the sheet metal "moves" in various areas, either from foam supports behind, or from tightening down the fasteners. I absolutely do not recommend doing bodywork on the fenders or cowl panel while off the car. A couple of videos showing the latest progress:

Hi Alan, that thread is very interesting and the depth of your knowledge is outstanding. Japanese engineers had have been learning from overseas from long long time ago , just wonderful. I am going to have a non smog intake and exhaust system to my #2146 . Kats

Hi , this is the front windshield for S30 series cars . 72631-E4100 is a tinted glass which was applied to all S30 cars except PS30-SB ( Fairlady Z432-R ) and 1969 HLS30 and HS30 .There might be some exceptions . I checked the secret codes , this windshield could be made either February 1974 or 1984 or 1994 or 2004 or 2014 . The part number label is not the earliest type for S30 series cars . Also it is not the later type . So I guess this could be made either 1984 or 1994 . Kats

While reviewing @zed2's thread on unchained vs. chained gas caps I spotted @26th-Z's comment about undated supercedes on that item. I recalled seeing a similar catalog notation on door lock assemblies while recently doing research for a friend. Today I was cleaning up some door lock assemblies and spotted a unicorn the probably confirms the timing of this particular supercede (80501-E4100, undated supercede 80503-E4100). The lock on the left is a left side unit, date coded 9 - 7, it has two clock-style coil springs, Note the position of the long arm is down on the smaller spring. The unit on the right is also a left side unit, date coded 9 - 11. It has only one clock-style spring with a different shape and positioning. The other major change is the elimination of the clock-style spring for the primary latch in favor of a tubular coil spring. This type spring is on all later dated units I have. Differences in the pin stamps can be seen in the second pic. Another difference I spotted: internal bumpers for the various levers were clear plastic on the early unit, black plastic or rubber on the later units. Unfortunately I have only the one 9 - 7 unit, no matching right side.

$25.00 plus shipping, it must be made of some pretty pricy plastics ?

Ah...Here you go. 17251-E4101 is the original filler cap superseded without date by 17251-E4102 (with chain). The filler neck 17212-E4101 changed to E4102 with it, but again, no date listed in the parts book. The rubber flap, 78818-E4100 is the only listing. My cars have the flap. I still have a brand new one that I bought in 2013. It is labeled E4100.

Well so far I've only knocked out the driver's side and haven't tried fitment of that front left fender yet. But that is a good point and I will check into that. For my car, that area of the rocker was completely rotted away so there wasn't anything mechanically holding it on (I used magnets). That and the tab on the fender itself had also rusted off. So I figure it can only be better in my case lol. On the passenger side we will have to be more careful. I'll try and get a picture when I check fitment for the driver's side fender..

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4525381

Fantastic!!! I enjoyed two videos so much, thank you for sharing . Personally, for S20 engine , I like the sound from engine bay rather than the sound from tail pipes. I would like to hear the sound more of “ moving parts , and turning parts “ . Your Z432 is so beautiful , 905 red is the one I always admire . Kats

Trying to buy a tail bushing bushing for the transmission and the shipping is ridiculous