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Everything posted by adivin

  1. I did not use the mounting bolts to draw the trans in. I said it was very difficult to mount the tranny to the engine. I had to do it with both engine and tranny out of the car.
  2. I think this is where I went wrong. I didn't pay special attention to this area, and I don't remember if I used sealant there or not. Thanks for the good info. I will try your technique too.
  3. Did you try putting in a taller collar?
  4. Yes, it is engine oil. I normally do not use sealant if I'm using a gasket.
  5. I reinstalled my front engine cover while the engine was out of the car. I used the gaskets that came in an L24 gasket set. Now that the engine is in the car, of course I have a leaks at the top of the cover where it meets the head. I don't know what I did wrong, so I don't know what to do different this time around. Any tips, tricks, or insights would be appreciated. Are gaskets preferred to RTV? Man, I hate doing things twice!
  6. I installed a new OEM 11/16 slave, not much difference from the previous slave that was also 11/16. I mad a few more turns at the MC and I can drive the car, but the pedal engages too close to the floor for my liking.
  7. Apparently being able to roll the car in gear with the engine off, doesn't mean you can actually put it in gear with the engine running. I'm still not at the end of the rainbow. Question, will my clutch fork (240Z) work with all the aforementioned taller collars?
  8. Yes, it works. The clutch disengages. I can roll the car in gear with clutch in.
  9. IMG_1734.MOV Ok, I might have it! With Zed talking about proper hydraulic pressure and Patcon mentioning the master cylinder adjustment, I gave it a shot and adjusted the master cylinder by 6 turns. I put the slave back on and turned the adjustment nut hand tight and tried to leave just slight bit of clearance. I was trying not to get hung up on 2mm plus it's hard to measure. How does this look?
  10. I took a look. This is where I'm at.
  11. Just measured the travel again with it off the tranny. From fully depressed to full extension is only 12-13mm.
  12. Also the slave cylinder that EuroDat referenced is the non-adjustable type. The throw on the adjustable type may not be as long.
  13. According to EuroDat the full travel is 35mm, but the operating travel is 25mm. I did measure on my cylinder and was only getting half of that. I'm not convinced my slave cylinder is able to travel 25mm. I have no leaks and I bled the mc again but no improvement. I could hold off and get another self-adjusting cylinder just for kicks but I think I'm in denial.
  14. Well, I backed off the adjustment nut two revolutions and the clutch stopped disengaging and there is still constant fork pressure on the pp. I will bleed the MC one more time, and then I bite the bullet and put the longer collar in. 😞
  15. Yes, that is exactly what I'm saying. I am going to play with the adjustment and hopefully I can find the happy spot.
  16. Right, this is where I'm at now. I guess just trial and error? I'm worried that when I finally get enough clearance between bearing and plate, the clutch won't disengage again.
  17. I tried this initially but the clutch wouldn't disengage. I finally adjusted the crap out of it (my last pic) and the clutch disengages but I have no gap between bearing and plate. I need to adjust it where the clutch still disengages and where the bearing is not up against the plate all the time. I guess this is just trial and error.
  18. What I'm trying to say is that with this adjustment, I don't have 2mm of clearance\travel between the bearing and the PP fingers. The clutch fork is tight against the PP even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. I am supposing I need to back off the adjustment nut to find the point at which the clutch still disengages when pressed, but yet the bearing is not up against the PP when the clutch is released.
  19. Breakthrough I hope...while waiting for a new collar to come in, I decided to adjust the slave cylinder to what I thought was an extreme amount. I desperately didn't want to drop the tranny again. The rod is now tight against the fork and there is zero play in the cylinder, BUT low and behold the clutch disengages. The car rolls forward while in gear with the clutch in. I hope the clutch doesn't slip now. I need to find where the sweet spot is. Taking out the clearance and backing the nut 1.5 turns per the FSM is too much and the clutch won't disengage from there. I have no way of measuring a 2mm gap (FSM) from the bearing plate springs. Trial and error? I guess this adjustment is ok as long as the clutch doesn't slip?
  20. Yea, it's really weighing me down!
  21. I haven't had a chance to get under the car yet. Work has me tied up.
  22. If the last 1/2 inch was the pilot bushing, what would make it so difficult?
  23. I knew better than to use the bolts to draw it in, but it was a very difficult install for that last inch or so. The only way I could get it was with the engine and trans both out of the car.
  24. Yes, I am running a 240mm clutch. I was just about to order the collar for a 280ZX.
  25. Well, the clutch that I received should work for my application according to the vendor. He suggested getting a collar for a 280ZX. I'm not sure which one that is.
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