Leaderboard

Cool song, about sums it up for me.

I believe it should slide past. Once the balancer is on and tightened down, it can't move. IIRC...

If you haven't already bought this I highly recommend. I built some dirt bikes and boat motors so I knew the basics but I'd never done a car motor. I bought this book for $20 and didn't have to call my Dad for help at all. I think it whizzed him off? https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030 Great how to book. He makes you want to do it unlike Haynes and Chilton manuals. They suck in my opinion.

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead! I've been researching hard for DIY vapor blasters and I am gathering components. I've watched hours and hours of videos and am currently searching for a trash pump. Parts sourced so far: - "Used once" Harbor Freight 40lb sandblasting cabinet - MSRP $199 - scored for $100 on Facebook Marketplace (I wanted to be able to fit an L6 head inside without any problems.) - Brand new, never used Craftsman 80-gallon two-stage air compressor - MSRP $1649 - scored for $700 on Facebook Marketplace - Custom brass vapor blast gun from Armoury Enterprises in New Zealand [3mm aluminum air jet, 8mm ceramic nozzle, 1/2" slurry inlet, 1/2" air inlet] - $70 Need to buy: - Lighting upgrade (Duffy I like your latest choice) - Flexzilla hose (most recommended hose to use by all the builders) / plumbing for air compressor / drier / pedal - Trash pump --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some findings in my research: - Most youtubers recommend no more than 60psi for vapor blasting aluminum parts. I prefer that clean, polished look. Glass beads #13 Very Fine, not crushed glass. I watched a video where a guy said crushed glass is far more abrasive; he stripped a painted greasy rusty cast iron intake with it. - "Secret" I'm going to try: supposedly turning off air supply completely and letting trash pump push the slurry at ~25psi by itself as a final step will provide the greatest lustre.

American Southerns mash words together but get their point across. It's too damn hot down here to talk proper, we're in a hurry.

Ok, great. I was hoping this was the case. Thanks!

Okay, let's try this again. The car has a 4x114.3mm STUD pattern. Are the wheels you found a 4x100mm HOLE pattern? If so and they are a +25mm offset, then you could try to find a set of bolt-on spacers that convert from 4x100 to 4x114.3. Most of them are 40mm though which would push the wheels out way too far. You will spend more for those wheels plus spacers than if you simply find the right wheels. +25mm offset wheels always look funny on a Z even when spaced out properly. You need the deep dish look IMHO.

There's a good chance that the water pump bolts have either already been broken by a previous owner, or will break as you are removing them. It's not that big of a deal if you break one, they aren't terribly hard to remove, especially with the engine on a stand and not in the car. I would go ahead and replace the head gasket and timing chain while the engine is out. The book that Siteunseen mentioned is the way to go for sure. I had never done it before and used that book. Made perfect sense and I'm no real veteran at this stuff. If setting the cam timing is your biggest worry, that book makes it plain and clear. Plus there's lots of threads on here about it, and if you get stumped, folks are happy to help.

Mounting point is for a mechanical fuel pump, provided the hole into the timing chain was milled open. Is there a reason you wouldn't want to do a head gasket? I think if I had the engine out, I would do the head gasket. It allows you to inspect the jackets for corrosion and the valve seats as well as clean up the combustion chambers. It's mostly labor, the gasket is pretty cheap. Technically you shouldn't reuse the head bolts but many people do.

Well. Engine and Transmission are out and I am almost healed from a minor surgery so I am ready to get back out to the garage. Next thing is checking for oil leaks. Trying to decide if I should be replacing the head gasket. Included some photos below. If anyone has any advice, let me know! The sides of the engine block don't seem to be too oily except under the #3 spark plug. There is a little buildup around the plug itself which makes me think it wasn't torqued down well at some point. The major area of oil buildup is where the front of the head meets the timing chain cover. There is sealant around the water pump to suggest that someone replaced it in the past. None of the compression numbers were off when I tested but they were a little lower than I would like. It was my first time testing though so it is possible I messed it up (can't remember if it tested hot or cold). 155 PSI 159 PSI 163 PSI 162 PSI 157 PSI 160 PSI Also, what is this mounting point for on the front right hand side of the engine above the alternator ? For more on the engine / trans removal, there are photos here.

Somebody’s Instamatic caught a lot of Z cars!

@Patcon gotta use what I got lol.... After a few beers on new years day I decided to tear up the old soundproofing.... figured it was best to address any issues while the interior is apart. I am glad I did because I found surface rust under the passenger side that would likely have created issues later on. Driver side isn't bad but I'll need some dry ice to remove the remnants of the sound proofing. overall it seems fairly clean... and surface rust. I'll next turn my focus on the underside of the car.... still not sure if I want to media blast it... I go back and forth daily. while I would like to, I am not sure if I want to awake sleeping dragons although I like the look of the underside of a car when its clean and rust free. I currently have a good layer of undercoating. What have some of y'all done? did you blast the bottom and not put undercoating and just primer and paint? or put undercoating regardless? Just trying to figure what's best for this build... I know its up to me in the end, but would love to hear some opinions/experiences. any help or advice is appreciated.

Yes, I'm excited to have these parts. I really think they are worth the money.

Have you tried running your Z without a thermostat? They definitely have a purpose but you could try it. Don't get too far from home though in case it over heats on you. Also you could try putting some kind of reducer in the hose coming off the head. It is possible the pump is pulling the coolant through too fast resulting in those black plugs you've shown us. It's a balancing act, not too fast but also not too slow. I still think you could put a thermometer in the radiator while the car is parked, no wind flowing besides the radiator fan and give us a temp reading. No "stuck in traffic" reading. Just sitting still in your garage.

I think I have done that a couple of times over my extended years! 😉

My "Datsun Guy" is over two-hours away from me and I always says a little prayer he stays healthy 🙏

I can beat totalZ and ebay pricing. Send me PM and we’ll discuss

Sorry to say, there are few of us dinosaurs left and we're facing extinction!

Hihihi.. you americans with abriviations... ty in advance.. had to think a 10 sec before IKWYM.. IT's : thank you in advance haha 🙂

I love this song but try explaining it to your girlfriend/wife.