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I've spent a lot of hours scrubbing, scraping, sanding, etc. to remove all of the glue from the inside panels of the car. Getting it off shock towers, inner rocker panels, roof, hatch openings, luggage riser, firewall, and inside the tool compartments was a job. I've still got more prep to do before the inside of the car will be ready for paint, but after about 4 Saturdays, I called it 'good enough' to get a layer of epoxy on top of the newly installed sound deadening mats in the passenger compartment. The hatch area will get the same treatment with epoxy soon. A video follows, but here are some still shots as well:

So this car isn’t technically for sale but the owner said he’d take $400. It’s has a complete L28 and manual transmission. Most of the parts are still there. I saved it from its demise just by chance. I haven’t been to this yard in 4 months and he’s got all sorts of old cars. Had three 280s, a 240 and a 2+2. He’s was crushing the 280s and keeping the 240 and 2+2. I just happened to walk up to this one when the auto grim reaper approached. I told him “don’t crush this car”. He had already smashed a decent 78’. He said go talk to the owner. Owner didn’t care either way. I think I convinced him to keep it. Here’s the video I took. If I arrived 5 mins later this puppy was going to be tuned in to Tuna Cans and paper clips. I did mange to grab some parts. ECU, fan shroud, cold start injector, condenser, a quartz clock some other odds and ends. $30 total Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ZCON page for Birmingham is live now: http://zcon.org/conventions/2022/ Registration goes live on 1/1/22. Here's a link to the convention hotel: https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/alabama/hyatt-regency-birmingham-the-wynfrey-hotel/bhmhr

I used this place for my items. Way less money. They do smaller batches for automotive guys. Looked just as good. https://staging.craftcoating.com/craft-industrial-coating/

Chas, thanks for the information, sounds like it might not be worth it to try the 240z valance. I put the Xenon out in the sun all day and it did unroll but it still looks really sloppy. I just can imagine it looking good. I’m going to see if Xenon will taking it back but I predict they won’t. I will probably go back to getting a stock valance and putting a lip on it. I need the passenger side piece and the center one. My drivers side is good. If anyone has these let me know. Chas too bad you gave it to an unappreciative person. Can’t let people like that change you though. It’s on them not you. So I had acquired another lower grill at a junk yard and did a mock up with it today. There are two lower grills on the bottom section in this pic. I wanted to see how it lined up. Will cut the shorter one out as it sit further back and then powder coat like the other one to match. It should take up lots of that gap with my 250z bumper . Also spent the day on the EFI. AFM, throttle body and put all new harness connections. Slowly she’s coming together. Awaiting cooliing parts to move forward.

Here's a nice custom, " professionally installed" https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/oshawa-durham-region/1973-datsun-z-series/m2551289?undefined

$10 for breakfast? That should include at least 2 Bloody Mary's. Chocolate Pop Tart and a couple of Bloody Mary's...umm, umm good!

Based on what the rest of your car looks like I would whack the crap out of it until it falls off. Most likely the pump has never been removed and was submerged under the ocean or wherever your car was sitting to get so rusty. No offense about your car I just mean it’s literally probably just sealed on there from the years and years of neglect and outside environmental forces

Hammer time. Supposed to start at 11:00 minutes.

@SteveJ You beat me to the post by several minutes. Thanks! The cost of conventioning continues to esacalate: the hotel rate is $139 with breakfast, $129 without. Add in taxes, fees, ...etc. and it will possibly approach $160. OUCH!

Thanks for the possible offer. My wife got the picture loaded for me. It gets frustrating with parts not having any dimensions or specs in so many of the descriptions. I send a few comments to O'Reilly corporate every week for adding pertinent info on their parts description page. Last week was a classic with a power steering pump pulley on a Cadillac that used 2 different sized shafts from OEM. The only info under description heading was "BLACK"-no dimensions whatsoever. Their e-mail response was that info will be added into their next update. Dealing with this every day at work makes you wonder who is actually creating these computer catalogs. I was hoping to find a generic part number for these clips but am not coming up with any dimension info. ZCARDEPOT does show these clips but again no dimensions shown. Thanks for listening, John, Lugoff, SC.

I have read that excessive carbon build up on the tops of pistons can increase readings when doing compression test. I like to do a leak down test as well. this will let you know the health of the rings and valves. another good test is a vacuum test, I think all of these things help with getting a picture of the overall condition of an engine.

in the video the fuel tank is almost empty, lol greedy car dealers😝

I have the xenon air dam too. I'm not overly impressed either. With it on the car properly the flat surface underneath the grill is wavy. Not much to be done about that. I wish they would make them out of TPO like other bumper skins. I could cut it and plastic weld but nothing to be done with the urethane one

FWIW, I just did a compression check on my motor using a C.T. from Auto zone. I was pleasantly surprised to find cylinders 2-5 at 180 and cylinders 1 and 6 to be between 178 and 180. It was hard to extrapolate the latter due to the gauge using 5# increments, and the variation could be due to slightly off valve adjustment. I'm actually very pleased with the results as the F54 block came out of a high mileage 280 ZX ( are these engines strong or what?) and a rebuilt N 42 cylinder head from a 280 Z FI car with a Delta stage 2 cam. I didn't do a wet test as the numbers were so close and in a good range. Now all I have to do is change out the elderly valve stem seals, but I think that will be after it's long winters nap. Cheers, Mike

John, I may have clips. Do you have any pictures of what you have? C

Yes, it's not so much "I must have X# PSI", it's the difference between the high and low cylinders. 125 PSI is 86% of 145 PSI. You're good according to the manual, although since the alternative is rather extensive work, I wouldn't mind if pressure was less than 80% of the high cylinder. I usually do a wet & dry test to have some idea whether any lower pressures are due to rings, or to valves.

More info please. Throttle open or closed, did the engine have oil pressure, proper valve adjustment, rubber hose on the c. tester are some of the things that will affect the readings. I would hope for something in the mid to high 160s with no more than 10% variation between the cylinders.

One of my favorite cars of all time. There is a really good video of Toyota testing it on a track.

Nasty job, no fun at all. I can only add to the above excellent advice with a small warning. I have tended to clamp vise grips on the turned lip of those clamps then found that in some cases, depending on the angle of applied force or degree of rust degradation, that the lips tend to break off. Then you’re in a real pickle. The true key to removal is to get them to rotate first to break the rust bond, THEN they will slip off more easily. You can use a chisel, screw driver etc to drive the clip to rotate it, just a bit, back and forth until that becomes easier, THEN work on applying force to pull them free.

Same one. MSAa and everyone on planet earth is out of them. Waited 3 months for this piece of trash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk