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Oh dear, I’m afraid it’s another case of YNUABEH (you’re not using a big enough hammer) With the bolts out, it free to rotate. Put a large pair of pliers, BA pipe wrench etc on it, and whack it with a BEH (see above)

The four sleeves...

Brain fart. Thanks Charles.

Dumb thing to try if you think it might be a bad starter... Pull the starter and start the car on compression. Take it for a short spin and see if the noise is still present.

The spindle can't turn when it's engaged to the crankshaft. The pump stator will stay stationary in the pump when the outside body rotates

Hello i am just back from the AACA Eastern Fall Meet at Hershey, PA. I entered my Z in the Historical Preservation Original Features class. In that class you are judged against a standard of originality. Anything restored or incorrect aftermarket gets a deduction. Used, NOS and OEM replacement parts are allowed. Owners are asked to disclose anything they know has been restored or modified. You are allowed up to seven deductions. Under that and you qualify for a HPOF award. My car is pretty much original but has had two minor body repairs/paint and the fuel line in not totally correct (correct routing but a new piece near the filter has been replaced using a Union. Not sure what the judges found (they do not tell you on the field.) I did not attend the awards ceremony that evening but I heard My car did get an HPOF award. it was a huge event…at least 500 cars on the showfield. From what I could see, Mine was the only Z, so it got lots of attention. Jim

I forgot to mention the conflict with adhesive and welding heat. If I weld it first, I can't get epoxy into the gap. If I epoxy it first, I can't weld it. I'm not sure why they used the rectangular piece in the first place, unless it was to keep the spot-weld heat low to minimize deformation on the outside of the lid. At this point, I am considering not reusing it.

You mean a liquid one? from what world do they come!! 😂

Zs are pretty affordable….. compared to a Porsche. 😐

Add me to the list of folks that doesn't think the 240z bumpers work with the 280z valence. Actually, I think the stock lower valence on both the 240z and 280z is kind of a miss. A replacement air damn or the BRE style spook air dam is a much better look. One more hot take: the placement for the turn indicators is better on the 280z than the 240z.

This is not enough to really begin making guesses. Remove the spark plugs and examine them. They can tell you a lot about what's happening in the cylinders. You'll have to remove them anyway to measure cylinder pressure. The fact that it runs means that you can listen to it and mess with it while it is running. You can learn a lot that way also. The coolant might be a "red herring". Irrelevant to the running problem.

I did it in the beginning, but didn't like the protruding valence under the bumper. I'm with @cgsheen1 on the looks. I decided to go with the 240Z air-dam and 240Z indicators under the bumper.

@dylancorrea1Your not starting the car during a compression test so don’t be concerned about creating any more damage. If you have questions on doing it properly please ask questions where we can help. Good luck and pass on your findings. A cold test should give you some idea.

No one, I hope... Just me, but I really don't like the 280 "bulb" valence with the 240 style bumper - screws with the line of the headlight bucket. To my eye, the bumper above is also too "high and tight". It accentuates the bucket / valence offset rather than minimizing it if it were a bit lower and protruded a bit farther. Well,,, You asked!