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Distributor Delete So I am using a 2004 Jeep 4.0 "cam synchronizer". It's amazing that the housing is a perfect fit in the Z's distributor base. To make it work with everything else, I removed the gear, cut off the shaft, made a press-fit bushing, into which I milled an offset slot, then pressed it onto the shaft and drilled and cross-pinned it. After that, I needed a way to lock down the body of the sensor after getting the timing set, so I made a clamp that works really well. Not sure if I will powdercoat it or have it anodized. The black screw will be replaced with something stainless. Still have to polish up the cam synchronizer body and distributor base.

Smaller project knocked out last night. My headlight/wiper combo switch wasn’t looking so great, and I had an intermittent headlight issue with the switch itself. So, decided to pull it completely apart, polish and restore the plastic bits, clean up contacts, and new terminals on the harness. Works great now.

That’s just sexy AF!

No one, I hope... Just me, but I really don't like the 280 "bulb" valence with the 240 style bumper - screws with the line of the headlight bucket. To my eye, the bumper above is also too "high and tight". It accentuates the bucket / valence offset rather than minimizing it if it were a bit lower and protruded a bit farther. Well,,, You asked!

No problem. I know this is in capable hands. I'll stand back some try to keep quiet.

Nasty job, no fun at all. I can only add to the above excellent advice with a small warning. I have tended to clamp vise grips on the turned lip of those clamps then found that in some cases, depending on the angle of applied force or degree of rust degradation, that the lips tend to break off. Then you’re in a real pickle. The true key to removal is to get them to rotate first to break the rust bond, THEN they will slip off more easily. You can use a chisel, screw driver etc to drive the clip to rotate it, just a bit, back and forth until that becomes easier, THEN work on applying force to pull them free.

Modified fully radiused Webber velocity stacks to fit my SUs. On the test drive the car sprinted into the rev limiter in first and second without me intending to! So they are adding value. The quality is 500% better than the MSA horns and they cost 1/3 in England. Can’t recommend these highly enough for an aftermarket air box.

Here’s the dyno graph. 6000 rpm pull.

So when I was working on the gearbox a couple months ago, I knew that I needed to change the clutch // get the flywheel resurfaced. I took advise from some other members and went with a light weight flywheel from Fidanza and a turbo clutch to keep an OEM clutch feel. Because of this I was forced to buy a new clutch collar to pair with the clutch. Here is the thread. Clutch was an Exedy 06030 (Rock Auto) Flywheel was Fidanza 143281 (Amazon) Here are the clutch collar related parts that I used: (Coutesey Nissan Texas) 32862-E9300 Control Lever Boot $5.94 1 $5.94 30501-K0404 Bearing Sleeve $24.13 1 $24.13 32710-14600 Seal-Oil $1.22 1 $1.22 30534-E9000 Clutch Release Arm Spring $2.33 1 $2.33 30514-14600 Clutch Release Bearing Clip $4.25 1 $4.25 I matched the year of the clutch kit from the suppliers catalog with the OEM part that nissan would have had in that car. If you already have the parts you want to install, then measuring the pressure plate like Jeff suggested is the way to go.

Not bad. Here's more details on how to do it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/

Here's a bunch about it. You set the pressure plate on a flat surface, put the collar/sleeve with bearing on top, then measure to the top of the ears where the clutch fork contacts. There are pictures and drawings in some of these threads. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=92mm pressure plate&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

The clutch diameter and the discs remained the same for all base with a larger diameter for the 2+2 and turbo cars. What changed was the thickness of the pressure plates over the years and that's why the collar changed many times. A lot of clutch kits now include the collar since it's hard to know what parts have been swapped over the years. It's best to measure the height of your collar and then buy a clutch kit that matches that collar height.

Yes, but if I'm not mistaken, that fuse was pulled in the photo in post #28. The bottom line is that the readings may indicate a battery drain, but so far, I don't recall seeing a reading that would indicate a dead short.

Safari, on my phone, has sized them to fit, so no worries eh?

I cut the holes open into a V shape. the webbers are 65mm centres and the SUs are 72mm centres. For the post above I used tapatalk and uploaded on my phone - looking at it on the PC now, I had no idea the photos are that HUGE! Apologies guys.

What did you need to modify?

Hi John, FWIW here are a few pictures from my 240 showing the springs and how they attach. I'm not sure if the 280 was done the same.

I would think you could shape that piece fairly easily. Make a rectangular patch. Make the hard crease in a vise. Shape the curve over a piece of pipe

The money from selling the 510 was burning a hole in my pocket so I thought why not buy something that was not only lots of fun to drive but might actually appreciate in value. I haven't registered in my name yet but I took it for a little drive and I know I will never find the limits of this car, it does everything right. I will be doing some serious cleaning tomorrow.

Not sure yet, the M cars came with bunch of the options as standard, I'm just glad the original owner didn't order the navigation display. If the ODO is over 90,000 mi. then they need changing, some guys have taken them up to 120,000 and been okay but others have spun a bearing at 80,000.

That was a good investment!!

I'd put a rag over the drain bucket just to see if any rust or crud comes out. Panty hose from the $ store would be good too. They'll look at you funny, just tell them your straining paint.

Everyone remember just how hot it was out there on the tarmac for the people's choice in Memphis? I went out for lunch with Blue @240260280 and Ms. Blue. We were trying to decide where to go and the answer was "Any place that has air conditioning. Oh... And eat slow!"

It doesn't hurt to make sure RJK knows that he's probably reading light bulbs. Actually, one time I was trying to find a battery drain on a 280Z. I started at the fusible links and moved down to the fuse box. I only found one fuse with current flowing through it. I realized that it was the dome light circuit, and the doors were opened. D'oh! I closed the doors and measured again, only to find the circuit still had current flowing. The door switch on the passenger side was not opening when the door was closed. I gave the owner the option of pulling the fuse or paying me to remove the switch. He pulled the fuse.