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Nice find! I made my own for both of my Z's with Optima batteries which are about the same height as your battery. I think I have about $20 in steel for both and for the most part, I only used basic tools, though I did have to put a few welds on them. I even posted a dimensioned drawing on here 15 years or so ago.

I had a buddy come over a couple of weeks ago with his work Tacoma, he said it was struggling up hills in SF. So I started looking around and it seemed to have a misfire. We started isolating coils to see if that was related and it looked like a coil was bad… the plugs were old and corroded, so I suggested we change them out while we flip the coils around to isolate the issue further. When installing one of the new spark plugs it would not screw into the head…. I look down into the spark plug hole and there was little bits of epoxy everywhere, the spark plug hole was cross threaded, and all the threads were removed, the new spark plug just span inside the hole. apparently some dude at my buddy’s work is learning to be a mechanic and he was the last guy working on the truck! I’m not sure how he managed to **** it up so bad, but he did. Maybe he was using a impact gun to install the spark plugs…. Anyway another reason to not trust backyard mechanics….. except us 😂😂😂

I'm sure we've all had the pleasure (and a fair amount of pucker factor) of breaking loose a spark plug, and then finding it has to wrenched out the entire way. If it comes out with no aluminum on it, phew! - saved another one. Been using anti-seize a long, long time, and I've never had any performance issues. Neither has the anti-seize. 😂

sell the OERs and get ITBs and injection.

I've never had a spark plug get stuck or stripped a head thread. Seems like a solution with no problem. Anyway, many plugmakers and automakers recommend keeping the threads clean. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs Don't forget to adjust your torque settings down. You can strip the threads trying to avoid stripping the threads. https://www.tirereview.com/video-should-you-use-anti-seize-spark-plugs/ And make sure you pick the right one. There's a bunch. https://www.permatex.com/?s=Anti-Seize

Maybe it's a good idea to use a little bit of coppergrease as anti-seize.. (as copper is a conducting material.) (One could measure the conductance between a plug with and one without some coppergrease and report back here what the difference is! I'm curious what it would be.. measure the resistance with an ohm meter between the foot of the plug (where normally your plugwrench go's) and the enginehead after you have found out what the resiistance from the leads itself is and substract those. Preferably use a micro ohm meter if possible..)

Thanks ZH, I checked and she’s flush and flat. Got the throw out bearing install and the transmission mounted. Put an old nasty valve cover on for install so I don’t booger up my nice one. Doing some final torque checks and marking the nut heads so I know which ones I’ve done and them I’m ready to drop this puppy in. Still haven’t pulled the drive shaft out. I have 3 guys so I’m hoping it’s possible to slide the yoke in during the install but we shall see. Tomorrow might be the day. I also pulled the billet fuel rail off. It was interfering with the throttle j-hook and I don’t have the FPR other than the stock one. This ZX rail I had powder coated so I’ll use it for now and maybe forever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're in that weird area of talking like your "informed" but asking uninformed questions. Basically, your comment says "not really excited about doing things the way the Nissan engineers designed them and used for the full lifetime of the Z. I don't want to use the factory installed removal hardware that Nissan installs on every single engine that leaves the factory. " Think about that for a while. (TATFAW)

Ain't it great when you buy something and it actually works!? Looks good, too.

I like the way you think!!!! 👍 And there speaketh the voice of experience!

Borrow the OERs from him and let him borrow your nice SUs. :^)

I would use the SU's if the engine isn't too wild. I think it will be hard to get the OER's close enough

It's not just you Euros! I had no clue either.

In the early 2000's, Ford SVT bought a used Dodge Viper as a competitive vehicle for our upcoming Ford GT. It was low mileage and looked good, but it ran like crap once we got it on the track. We found that a PO had used anti seize on the plugs. Once everything was cleaned off, it ran great. At the time, nearly all of us had been using it on our personal car plugs, but I never have since. I have enough old car gremlins to chase and I don't need another one that is self induced. 🙂

Looking at the cut end at the bottom of the springs and the rust on the lower half, I'd guess there was a acetylene torch involved.

mmmm...eh... we Euro's have NOT A CLUE where this is about? Fill me in captn.. it's a cartoon character???

Maybe they were designed like that. Variable rate progressives. The lower coils bind on big bumps. You know... Like when you let it down off the jack.

They look like they've lost their temper. Maybe they've been modified with a low temperature flame (propane, MAPP), and got to their annealing temp for a while.

E Pluribus ACK!

Larger valves will require larger seats too. And then you'll need to notch the bores on the 2.4 block to accept the larger 2.8 valves.

They kept driving it after the first break! The spring kept self deteriating. Wouldn’t want to install a new spring when you still have 2/3 of a spring left! Those 510’s are tough little bitches!!!!👍

She’s alive! Didn’t take much to bring it to life. Slight rattle from the resonator in the background. A part from that sounds healthy, good oil pressure and no leaks. Few tweaks and she’ll be able to move under her own power and begin the break in process.

Yeah, I'm not sure I did a good job of putting my thoughts into words. Av8ferg did a much better job than I did. So let me try again... So you think this forum exists for the purpose so you can ask us every question and you don't have to do any research yourself? is that why we're here?

You are probably on a forum with the most gracious, kind and helpful people you will ever encounter on a car forum. The regulars on here are highly experienced but also very forthcoming with advice tips and a myriad of other virtues. In life you get what you give. When you have concerns about advice given or published in the Nissan manual its fine to ask why but it’s really not a good idea to try and respond with a underhanded or sarcastic comment. I think is is a good idea to search the forum, read the details of your area of concern. If the answers don’t satisfy you or you have questions it’s absolutely fine to reach out and get clarification. Honestly Siteunseen sent you the link to everything you needed, he did the search for you. Being on a forum is no different than walking into a conference large room where you get to raise your hand and ask a question. I’d ask you how you would approach that in real life? Maybe something like “Hi, my name is Dam I own a xxxx Z that I’m restoring and have a lot of questions and was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction on a engine removal technique “. We’ve allowed social media to change the manner in which we deal with people and we need to take a step back and treat social media interactions the same as you would real ones. Its a problem of this new social media world where are all in and where it’s okay to say something you’d never say to someone’s face....Something to think about ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you even bother to click on the link that @siteunseen politely posted? When you do a google search that includes classiczcars.com, the result are primarily focused on this forum. A lot of times you get more focused results than by using the search button on this site. In Site's example you get the following, and if you click more results, you get 3 plus pages of relevant results from our forum. I will also mention that if you search from our forum with quotation marks, ie: "engine removal". you will get results for the phrase in quotations. Which also gives a good list of results. I suspect you already know this, but by reading your blunt requests for help it doesn't appear that you have the time to search for yourself. Maybe you should think about that for a while, oh and yes I do have better things to do.

Maybe you should start a build thread instead of a new forrum post for each random question it is helpful to have it all in one place then it’s easy to reference.

So did you do any of the things I suggested in Post #6?

blodi, that looks like a Kamaeri steel head gasket, if it is then your compression might not be as high as 10.5. The thick Kamaeri HG are often used to bring down the compression when no other way can be found to deal with ping.

That number comes up discontinued here in the states.