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Pardon me for the interruption, but did you find your Z lying next to the Titanic and decided to rescue it? I've scrapped better Z's, back in the day.... WOW!!!

Nice day! IMG_2304.MOV

I took the 260Z to one of the regular car meets I frequent. A fellow GZC member was there, so we parked together.

You're asking us with all that experience? We need you!

Here's a pretty good blow by blow of going to an internally regulated alternator if the zstore adapter is still not in stock. 240z alternator upgrade (instructions w/ pictures) - Electrical - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)

It’s possible but that’s going to be a ton of work I would almost just cut that entire part out and then graft on the donor. Basically I would cut out the entire yellow area in my picture and then down far enough into the firewall and in straight lines to make welding in a new piece easier. Are you good with a welder?

Wayne, are you thinking you might have been a bit hasty in scrapping those cars?😉

I think it is for the 260-280, so some slight differences from the 240.

Set some time aside and read. It's been gone over many times and you will learn the tricks/shortcuts. Very easy with the right preparations. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=WpdPYdLgGsKygge18KiwCQ&oq=280z+engine+removal+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCgAToECCkQRzoFCCkQgAQ6BwgpEAoQoAE6BggpEBYQHjoECCkQCjoNCCkQxwEQrwEQDRCTAjoOCAAQ6gIQjwEQjAMQ5QI6BQgAEIAEOgsILhCABBCxAxCDAToICC4QgAQQsQM6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoLCAAQgAQQsQMQgwE6CAgAEIAEELEDOgsILhCABBCxAxCTAjoLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCDAToICAAQgAQQyQM6BQgAEJIDOgQIABANOgcIABDJAxANOgYIABAWEB46CAghEBYQHRAeOgUIABCGA1CULljI3AFg0OcBaAJwAHgAgAHFAYgBwx2SAQQwLjI2mAEAoAEBsAEe&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

Looks like Auto Panel Solutions in the UK makes a panel for that, although it doesn't look to be identical, if that's what your standard is. https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/

I have been watching a video series on youtube from Japan of a 240z restoration, and they found one somewhere. I'm pretty sure it was a new piece since there werent any drill holes and cuts in it. Been working on other areas of my 73 restoration and mentally put that panel on the backburner figuring I'd have to scratch build it.

If all 3 on one carb are like that, I would start there. Maybe stuck choke or choke cable binding up

Oooow, that can be a tough area depending on where the rust is, I'm going to guess that it's the fresh air chimney and firewall just in front of it? Any pics?

I've used futofab for parts simply because of the shipping prices. I live closer to the East coast so he saves me a good bit. But he has been very helpful as far as a gentleman that owns a business. I give him 5 stars! Would buy from him again.

@Mike Could a page be made to house some of these really helpful links? Tire calculators Engine calculators Zcar registries Atlantic z car links Etc

For the diode, you can find a description here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html For the jumpers at the VR connection, you can get the 6.3 mm 6-pin non-latching connector from Vintage Connections. You can use that connector for the diode. Unplug your VR. Set a multimeter on continuity. Look for the black/white wires from the engine bay harness going to the connector. Test each for continuity with the vertical pin on the T connector at the alternator. The diode would point to the T connector. You can also check with Motorsport Auto to see if they have this in stock: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12h04/12-4067 It already has the diode.

What makes you think the Canon is insufficient? I think I would do some volumetric calculations to see what the engine might want based on final displacement. I would also contact whomever is now supporting mikunis II don't remember if Wolf still does it) and somebody for the webers (Redline maybe) and see what their thoughts are on the respective carbs for the proposed engine. The 40s should perform better down low but that's not an absolute

And, if you have "Z Car" in your name you are implying expertise in a specialty area. If you're not sure it works correctly you shouldn't put it on your web site. Right? Just saying, he's not just another O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Here is the gland nut from the 1970's Red Koni's. FWIW

Yup, what kind of body work does your Z need?

A flat head screwdriver and a hammer worked for me. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

As I was thinking about this a bunch of memories passed through my head in voice over type thoughts. "Is this one exhaust or this one?" Do they just alternate from here? Exhaust - intake - exhaust - intake... No? Crap. The engine's tilted. Up is not Up". Is this still hot? Should I start over? It was perfect before I tightened the lock nut, now it's too tight. Does it matter if it's hard to get the feeler gauge in? Am I scratching the cam lobe with the feeler gauge? Where's my small sledge, I don't want to bleed anymore. #1 is a B___h! I should have wiped that oil off the edge before it dripped down the side of the engine. Wow, I really wacked something when the nut came loose. Hope nothing got bent. I could have just taken my time setting them cold, then rechecked them when they're hot. And that's just in the first hour.

This was actually yesterday, but [mention=17919]randalla[/mention] and I went to a local Cars and Coffee in Scottsdale. We're definitely at the low end of the cars that show up, but get more than our share of attention. The Delorean next to me looked brand new, the Jensen Healey next to Randy was sweet as well. Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk

Let me be the first to be controversial and I know this isn’t the question you asked: I fundamentally disagree with doing them hot! Reason? Can you keep the engine temp constant at “hot” over the 30-60 mins it takes to do the job? But cold is not going to fluctuate. My personal experience has been that by the time I finish and go back to cyl 1 to double check, the clearances have changed! ;) So for a rookie like me, I like doing them cold. Secondly, this web page I LOVE: https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/l28.html I do mine a fraction tighter than spec but let me not elaborate with an essay as to why.