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I heard rumor that it will be hosted by the home club of the ZCCA Treasurer. Here's the way to find out at ZCON before they announce it. Look around at registration and ask people working there who are not ZCCA officers (and family thereof) if they are with the host club. Most likely someone will respond, "No, I'm with the such-and-such club." Those people are at the convention to learn how to run registration for the next convention. Of course, there's usually plenty of loose lips around the convention saying where the next one will be held. The last few years only one club puts in a bid. For those of you who are not members of your local Z club, please join, especially if it's a ZCCA club. If it's not a ZCCA club, join and try to get them to join the ZCCA. It's only through the support of local clubs and the ZCCA that it's possible to have the conventions. If you haven't gone to a convention, consider going. Even an introvert like myself can find things to enjoy at the conventions. (Actually while many people are trying their hands at pub-crawls, I'm usually looking at the cars/photographing the cars/talking to the car owners.)

Frame rails tend to rust from the inside out. So even though you can't punch through with a screw driver doesn't mean the rail is not corroded inside and no longer the correct thickness. I think at this point in my life, if I find a rail with rust holes, the whole rail will be replaced.

The wheels I ordered several months ago finally arrived. So now I can mount the tires I bought last winter. Can't wait to get them mounted and on the car.

I hope you are right Steve! We might actually see each other at a Zcon again. It would be a great reunion in my book.

As it turned out Riley got back to me on the next business day but by then I had ordered from somewhere else so it seems he is very much still in business but just busy. I will certainly be ordering from him next time I need something. Below is Riley's response to me. Sorry Riley, I read some comments on the forums about how difficult it was to get a hold of you that I moved on and ordered from somewhere else. Next time for sure, your inventory is impressive and prices are reasonable. Thanks, Chris parts@lynchburgnissan.com Jul 12, 2021, 8:50 AM (11 days ago) to me Sorry about that! Please do give me a shot next time Many people do not know or understand that the Vintage operation is a small part of a very locally busy Nissan dealership, so I am forced to give priority to the local business traffic Other than a couple of people that I am still having delays with, my response time via email is pretty quick I was also very active in a bunch of Facebook groups, but it started taking up so much of my free time- nights, weekends, holidays, etc, that I had to go on hiatus. I havent shut down the account, so people have kept messaging me there and not getting an answer Looking forward to fulfilling your Datsun needs in the future

Your pictures I'm sure has made many of us very happy about the condition of our cars. You might need to visit this site in the future: https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/datsun/

If your cam is stock and he just did a clean up cut on your head, the stock .120 rockers are what you need. Maybe you ordered the wrong rockers……160, .170 or .180’s? .120’s are correct for what you described…… case closed!

Shawn, You have issues with your dome light switch, as you have asked for guidance here >> I was not able to test this as when I went out to test it, my bezel shattered. And my ability to turn the dome light on and off at the dome light. I *believe* that normal operation is that the dome light is ON or OFF In the ON position (which I think you have), the dome light is ON, ALWAYS. Door switch does not change that. In the OFF position, the dome light is OFF until you open the door and then the dome light lights. Have you checked into replacing your broken dome light? Z Car Depot has them available, I just ordered one. Here's the link >> https://zcardepot.com/collections/lighting/products/dome-light-lamp-lite-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78# The OEM Nissan Part number is 26410-E4101 if you wish to investigate other purchasing options. I think you have multiple electrical issues that are compounding to your troubleshooting. PS - The power supply in the fuse box is in the INNER side of the fuses. So make sure you have power there before checking the other side. Just my 2 cents.....

Most stock lash pads are 0.160-0.170 inches thick, NOT counting the indent in the bottom, that actually rests on the tip of the valve. Aftermarket shims are available with or without these recessed bottoms. 0.12 or 0.080 inches does not make sense for any reground cam, they would have to be thicker than stock. Assuming stock valve heights of course. If you had really tall valve tips now, maybe thin lash pads make sense? These guys are my fav. AUD $ is way under both USD and CAD. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted I’d ask a few more questions of your machinist about installed valve height and what rocker pad to cam clearance he is measuring at. You know the .008 hot and 010 cold lash setting.

Those are some good looking rims and shoes. Can’t wait to see those mounted on the car.

I have purchased from that site (him) several times. My most recent order was in December. No delays in communication whatsoever. I bought a coil, two Hella H4 bulbs, no longer available nos oem door strikers some grease caps and some NGK plugs. B2433-U3110 coil $60 (ended up buying a blem unit for less) 80570-21000 rh door latch striker on body $16 80571-21000 lh door latch striker on body $16 99996-70476 Hella h4 kit $60 40234-S0400 set of 2 front wheel bear dust grease cap $14.30 (6) of NGK BP6ES $2 each Garrett

If both the pickups are moved by the vacuum advance plate, then it really doesn't matter which one he uses. Just set the timing with a light and everything else should come out in the wash, right? The two pickups never change with respect to eachother. They're a fixed delta under all conditions.

Right. On paper, that's not it. Of course, however... There is still the possibility that it's intermittent, and it was 740 Ohms that instant with the wires in exactly that position when you measured it. Aren't I just the bluebird of optimism?

Joking around here, you all know me by now. After dealing with Xfinity and Roku's "make it impossible to watch but charge the hell out them anyway" attitude I hope I get covid. My family will sleep better knowing I didn't go bat $^!# crazy and handle things myself.

My bad wording... should have said all the EPA, DOT and other Federal Regulations. Associating component parts of a motor vehicle with its VIN was, AIR a DOT regulation. It was intended to lower the number of stolen cars that were being taken for their parts to be resold. I'm sure it was pushed by the Insurance Companies and welcomed by the Police. At first GM stamped the actual chassis serial number of the vehicle on the engine blocks - that was were the term "matching numbers" originated back in the 60's. Car manufacturers started stamping the VIN on places on the frame and in some cases hidden in other places (with only Law Enforcement agencies given the location of the hidden VIN's) - so if the visible Dash VIN was changed.. the real VIN could be found in other places on the vehicle. I have no idea what changes in the laws took place in the later 70's...

I haven’t posted on this thread for a myriad of reasons mostly because I have followed Captain Obvious’s advice. Let the medical professionals be your guide. I’m lucky that I’m married to a Doctor and she’s 100% pro vaccine and pro COVID-19 vaccine. She’s blown away there are people not getting vaccinated because of conspiracy theory’s. When in doubt trust your physician and when people make crazy accusations I use Occam’s Razor (Principle of Parsimony) the simplest explanation is usually the most accurate one. The government doesn’t need to fake a pandemic to make you take a vaccine to alter you DNA or whatever you Facebook buddy came up with. There are many more logical avenues to do such a thing if you were so convinced they would do such a thing. Bruce: to answer you question this might be helpful. Passed to me by a friend who is a doctor and says this guy Is spot on with COVID info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Enjoy everyday you wake up. It's over folks. We had some fun though...

If you are sure you have located the correct fuse the next step will be to see if battery power is coming into that fuse. If so, then check that you have continuity from the other end of the fuse to one of the wires at the door switch.

Given the stiff fines and prison time associated with Fraud and all the EPA Regulations in the automotive business even at the time - No Authorized New Car Dealer would ever mess with Federally Required numbers on a motor vehicle. I think the issue was addressed when the Seller Posted the block casting numbers. It would appear from the final sale price - matching vs non-matching numbers is about a $5K delta on a Driver quality 240Z today. It will be interesting to see what the Red 73 with L28 and other upgrades sells for tomorrow.

I'm going to do my best to respond to your post and not get you pi$$ed off. You've probably noticed that you're not getting responses to this thread and are getting frustrated. There are at least two reasons for no responses: (1) it seems you are ignoring the help offered last week in your prior post, (2) you are trying to fight/hack the factory wiring instead of tracing and fixing the problem. There is NO need to ground any wire at a door switch - all of the grounds are in place at their proper location! There is one wire to each of the the door switches that should have constant power. Last week our fellow member wal280z edited my comment to say this is a fused wire. On the driver's side switch the other wires go to (1) the ignition buzzer and (2) the dome light. The buzzer is already grounded and so is the dome light. The fact that your dome light works at the light switch says you have constant power there and the ground is good. This is a different power circuit than the one coming from the door switches. The passenger door switch has only two wires - one for constant power and the other going to the dome light. Since neither door switch works, the problem is likely no power, possibly traced to a blown or bad fuse. You need to locate the fuse for the door switches power circuit. Check that power is coming TO that fuse (probably direct from the battery). Replace the fuse and see if you now have power coming to the door switches. Its not uncommon for these switches to fail but if you can confirm power, then replacing one or two door switches should be a simple matter. I hope you have the FSM for your car and are making an attempt at following the wiring diagram.

I'm in! I'm flying but bringing my '73 (aka Motorman7's "flat top" restoration) in a commercial trailer with several other Zs from the Z Owners of Northern California. (ZONC)

It's about a month away, and I've officially started training for the event. I figure the sooner I get familiar with the foreign environment, the better. Less shock to the system that way, right?

Close up…

I have been working on documenting the fasteners on the car. When I finish all of the documentation of the hardware, I will upload a worksheet to the resources section. In the meantime, anyone with a google account can access what I have so far by going to the link: Datsun 240z hardware - 6/1971

I found something similar to what my uncle used off his rear truck hub. Cannot believe I found this. This is 70s/80s redneck engineering. His name was "Uncle Luther". Miss him too.

I wouldn't weld them on over rusty rails. I'd replace the old rails with new ones.

If we only had frame rails that thick from the factory

Which goes to show that, if you wait long enough, everything comes back for a second (or third, or fourth) run. Next up: plaid bell-bottom dress pants.

On the plus side, it was done to a 2+2.

I try to think of the cars that are ugly as providing parts later on for everyone else.

Gents, It’s looking like a no-go for me. I tried to schedule it in but it just didn’t work out. It looks like I’ll be in Europe while you all are exercising your livers. Don’t forget IPA’s make the worst beer hangovers and CO has many to choose from...start training now like Bruce. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll not be making it to the big dance this year. The days of 12-14 hour drives are all in my rear view mirror. 😟

Compact Z?

Check out this "Supper Rare" Datsun for sale in the Reno, Nevada area: http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/5909379762.html