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I think you will get the best results if you go ahead and pull some of the loose ends together. I would think putting the best dash in and getting the best transmission in would go a long way. I think many of the current buyers that have cash arent into working on their cars as much as some of the longer term Datsun people are

LOL. Well there's your reward for tuning your mixtures in so well. It's certainly possible that there was a slight change in engine temp that aggravated an "already close to failing" piece of injector hose, but I suspect it's more just dumb luck with maybe a little bit of Murphy's Law thrown in there just for comedic value. And if one of them is leaking, I bet the other five aren't far behind.

I used a Sharpie and put you in the Eastern zone. Just wondered if you saw some tornadoes. The news showed real houses getting hit instead of the usual trailer parks.

These do two things. It raises the effective top of the strut hydraulic top mount inside the isolator. It does thus give you an inch of addition compression stroke. The other thing it does is eliminate the rubber in the stock isolator. I’ll bet that really softens the ride, wouldn’t it? Where is that tongue in cheek icon when I need it? The thing it does NOT do is give you an advertised “softer” ride. IF you are bottom out the shocks due to lowering springs, it gives you another inch of compression travel so you MAY not get that great jolt when that happens, but that’s it. Overall, I bet you get more road noise and vibration when driving without the upper isolator rubber. Just my impressions from what I see.

Thanks for that. I've really enjoyed you input on this site over the years. Cheers, Scot

One came within a few miles of me. I put my motorcycle helmet on and raised the roll over bar on my Exmark mower. Me and my dog sat on the lawnmower, me with a motorcycle helment on and a beer I couldn't drink with the dog in my lap. My redneck safe place, a riding lawnmower. Oh and I found out today that if my garage apartment falls on my Zs my homeowners covers them, not Hagerty. I've got to get that figured out asap, the values and what not.

Brother, I LOVE your creativity!! [emoji106]

A couple of things can be the source of your rattle. Unbalanced drive line components like the propeller shaft, a flywheel/clutch group or even a failing bearing in the transmission. Worn out engine and transmission mount don't help either. The end result is anything with excessive tolerances will rattle. Your gear selector being a prime example. The two bushes for the selector locating pin and the cup on the end of the selector should be replaced. That should fix the rattle.

240 racks are a little quicker.

Agreed. I guess now that you have moved the chamber edge back on E1 and I2, if I were you, I would do something similar to the rest of the valves, but making sure I didn't push it to the hairy edge and left a little material to guarantee that the head gasket ring didn't squeeze out past the material. Other than that, the only other thing I would do is make sure I broke the sharp edge where the new head planing surface meets the chamber. And I wouldn't even use power tools... Some fineish (400?) grit sandpaper ought to knock down any burrs and put a small radius on that edge. In other words... When they plane the head, they usually use a large cutter spinning in one direction. Because of that, it usually results in a burr (most prevalent on the downstream side of the cut). I would take some fine grit paper and work it around the chamber something like this to knock off any smeared burrs and/or make sure there aren't any sharp edges:

Looks interesting, but I don’t see how it will make any difference with regard to the bottoming out of the struts. And, it looks like it will actually raise the ride height an inch or to.

The bushing width on the 280 rack is wider than the 240. There are also other differences beyond that but I don't think they would affect form-fit-function. Stuff like details in the design of the inner tie rod ends. Different, but would be unnoticeable in application. But the only form-fit-function hurdle I can come up with quickly is the bushing issue.

CO covered it, the gains in flow to result in more HP are so small as to be unnoticeable, what you are talking about is the sort tweaking that is done a race engine to squeeze the last bit of potential out of it and you would only benefit from those possible gains at WOT and how much time do you really spend up there? If I were you I would reassemble with some molding clay or a bit of Plasticine at the 3 and 9 position, just tighten the head bolts down a little snug and cycle the engine by hand a few times to see if you have covered your clearances. If at anytime while rotating the engine by hand you feel the engine stop or resist, back it off and remove the head to figure out where the interference is coming from. The thickness of Plasticine at the bottom of the valve dent will give you a good idea of how close you are. I understand perfectly the desire to make the engine as perfect as possible while you are in there, it's fun just be aware of the law of diminishing returns.

Its part of the front of the 240z heater box that sits behind the center dash vent that directs vent air forward and to the two eye ball vents on the ends of the dash. Doesn’t exist on a 74-78 260/280

Insurance is like our boobie thread. Look but no touchy, worthless.

The homeowner's policy might also require an appraisal for each car too.

Thanks siteunseen...i did see that post, but i think the original poster is incorrect in saying that the KMS-2511z is original equipment for the 73-76 Z cars. To my knowledge, none of those year models came with stereo radios from the factory. And I agree...it seems that the ZX radio set up did include cassette players. I'm sure you'd agree that it is curious that the box states "280ZX Coupe"

Glad to see you survived the tornados!

https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/what-are-the-red-and-yellow-dots-on-my-tires/

interested in the new center duct diverter, hope to hear more about it later!

That's exactly what they did starting in 77. They went back to vents on both sides (as opposed to 75 and 76 which only had the vent on the right side) and changed the intake location from the front of the car to inside the cowl area instead. Just another reason why 77 is better.

As heyisrama says, most of your run in is already done so a few months of paint work isn't going to make any difference to your engine. I'm in your court when it come to engine break in, lots of short bursts of acceleration followed by engine breaking. The rings and cylinder walls are the only things that are breaking in so put them work. Nice to have friends with a paint booth😁

We're having an unusually early spring down here. Groundhogs be damned. I have a box of the baby blue mask from work and holy cow at the very obvious crud I'm getting with these cheap things while doing yard work. It's amazing to see. They will be absolutely necessary until the day I kick the bucket, full of papers proclaiming things I want to accomplish before said time of the bucket to be kicked.

Keep working on that Bucket List and remember how long the Lone Ranger wore his mask 😎. Dennis

@123ignitionusa I just stumbled on this old thread after making a dupe. I had some issues getting my tach to work in my 11/70 240Z but resolved it with the help of some friendly forum members. The solution is here - my beautiful drawing is public domain so feel free to reprint it 🙂 While I have your attention, it would be extremely cool if there was a library of user contributed centrifugal and MAP curves that beginners like me could reference - especially if they were listed along with engine specs (e.g. carbs, cam, exhaust setup etc). Also, the initial timing degrees. I'll bet if you put out the call here and on hybridz you could get some forum members to contribute.