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A small follow up on Harold's 240, and I guess a milestone, car is off the rotisserie, getting the front end stuff installed. Should have wheels and rolling around on the ground soon. I hope I have his level of energy and enthusiasm when I am in my eighties. If you look in the dictionary under work ethic, you will see his picture ...

Later Bon Scott

A dab of wheel bearing grease should keep it in place until you slide the damper on.

You're lucky, I don't think I have ever seen a distributor bolt/screw where the Philips socket wasn't destroyed.

I've sold many Z cars over the years. This one will probably change hands at my estate sale 😊

Those are both adjectives. Throw and sling are verbs 🙂 @Zed Head Why not. I ordered a couple.

My Honsowetz, "how to restore" book shows the oil slinger and adds an install step. Weird how the "modify" book tells not to install it. Would be good to know why.

It's called an "oil thrower".

Put some denticles on it. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323011115_Shark_skin-inspired_designs_that_improve_aerodynamic_performance

Somebody on a different forum measured under hood temperatures for Z's and found that when the car was moving the air under the hood equilibrated to outside air temperature. It got replaced faster than it could be heated. Non-moving might be a different story, can't remember what he found there. His conclusion was that relocating inlets was not worth the effort.

Ps. Beyond the issues people have quoted with them deforming and collecting / dripping the fuel from the standoff mist, the thing I really don’t like about the Ram Air filters (or any trumpet filter) is the sucking of hot air!! I am planning on getting a couple of temperature sensors under the bonnet to measure what temps I’m getting. While doing my search, I came across this VERY good thread / experiment. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xjs-x27-32/under-bonnet-hood-temperatures-166641/ Mr. Vizzard has a chart showing that for every 11c drop in intake charge temp, he gained 2.2% HP. Now imagine ambient 25c and under bonnet temps of 68c as an example. That’s 6.6%!! On a 200bhp engine that is worth 13 ponies. 13 very easy and cheap to have ponies. I know all of this is old hat but I’m always intrigued at how few people care. I guess not everyone is chasing ponies and prefer the sound. And oh what a lovely tune it is too!! [/Rant off]

Early Bon Scott

Here are some pictures of part 01121-00061. Correct for an L24 or L26 rocker cover, according to my R-Drive fiche.

. Similar problem but the opposite, when I was using SK triples the front edge of the chokes had to be tapered down so it flowed into and matched the bottom of the trumpet, the Ramair foam filter wasn't ideal but worked well enough.

Make sure there are no burrs on the damper that might be grabbing the woodruff key as it slides on, lightly go over the edges with a fine file.

I think my NOID didnt work in my first test since I didnt have continuity from (-) coil to my ECU #1. It wasnt until the next day did I fix the continuity problem. I need to head to the parts store to rent the NOIDs again 🙂

Here's a nice little distributor wrench I found on kijiji, would be great for the onboard tool kit. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/ottawa/datsun-distributor-adjustment-tool-new-old-stock-12-point/1496172792

I have this one by Craftsman and I like it. Makes adjusting the distributor easy.

EuroDat, I think that helped. The notch is accessible now. I just need to find a ball bearing that fits. I don't know if it matters but my 5th gear hub pictured in SMT007A did not have that notch around its circumference.

yes I put the cam cover back on, cleaned the gasket and head where the gasket meets and torqued down to 84" pounds. when the cover was off I felt around the back of the head and it was dry. unless it is a slow drip above the #6 header pipe in the rear corner that is all I can think of. it is hard to see as my oil never turns black I all ways try to keep the oil pretty clean. so later this week when the weather clears up I'll take it for a run and see what happens . if it is still leaking I order a new cam cover gasket and change it. that would be blessing if that was it but for some reason I have my doubts.

Those don't look right. The valve cover should have all flange bolts, not separate lock and flat washers.

I've done a certain amount of parts refurb over the years, both on my ride as well as the parts I handle for my hobby business and I have yet to find a shortcut to good prep. Ultimately it comes down to the wire wheel on the bench grinder or on the high speed drill motor or a small wheel on a Dremel. For parts I really want to "pop", a bit of wet sanding after the wire wheel works out very well. Its critical to get all of the old plating, rust, oxidation scale, paint, ...etc. off the part before any new plating is laid down. If this is not done, the new plating will quickly drop off. This prep work also applies to all of your fasteners - bolts, nuts, washers, screws.

One more for incentive

To really get the rust under the battery tray you have to drill out the spot welds on that large support that curves down to the rail, there is rust under it and it will spread right back after you paint it. You don't have to use sand, there is copper slag that is quite aggressive, also walnut shells.