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I needed a change of scenery so started on the other side for some variety, still lots to do on the roof but you have to take your victories where you can.

This guy makes guitars out of shovels. American shovels. In America. And he plays them very well. I like his percussive approach to guitar playing. Oh, and he sells them too.

They just don't look Porsche to me. Those 928 headlights scream Lamborghini Miura, in my opinion. But, then again, Porsche is the 911 in my mind. At any rate, it seems like Porsche was having an identity crisis when making these cars! Neat cars regardless - wouldn't mind finding one in my grandpa's garage!

I'm a bass player, and the Soviet era basses are pretty comparable to cars like the Yugo. They might run, but using them for their intended purpose isn't rewarding.

Man, that looks WONDERFULLY 50's or 60's. Italian styling from that era knocks me out!! I owned a 1958 Fiat Transformabile (Spyder) for many years. Classic 50's Italian sports car styling.

Very industrial and not so good. Strange looking and influenced by the unusual guitars from Japan in the 60's. I have a few of the Japanese guitars and like them a lot.

I have come across what is obviously the true inspiration for the Z car. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-alfa-romeo-giulia-1600-sprint-speciale-3/

Got it yesterday Dave! Thanks! Clean enough that I was able to squirt it with prepaint prep and primer it right out of the box.

Got a box on the front porch yesterday. It was packed so well I thought it might be a heart for transplant. That is @Terrapin Z David's style though. It brought me tears though. Not because of anything you did David... My son said what is that? I told him it is a mount for the alternator, I need to modify it so I can use a higher amp alternator from a GM car. He said "How do you modify it?" I told him "I have to take the nose off of it." He reached out and did that silly dad trick where you reach for their nose and then stick your thumb between your forefinger and say "Got your nose!" I asked him "How do you remember that stuff?" He said "I think you are the greatest dad jokester in the world!" Thanks Dave! 😂

On BAT in particular and with people who know Z cars (especially in the US) I don't believe "4 speed or 5 speed manual transmission" is anything more than a very minor issue. Why would it effect end sales price other than perhaps marginally? Even though many have "chucked" their 4 speeds in favor of a 5 speed they are still available - as are 5 speeds. Anyone who wants to swap either way can easily do so. Most 5 speeds ARE the 4 speed - same transmission with the addition of an overdrive gear - at least until you get to the ZX "close ratio" 5 speed. (And who wants the "monkey shifter" series one 4 speed other than the ultra originalist...) And, unlike todays kids who think "OH! 5 speeds! Faster!" we know that the Datsun transmission 5th gear is an OVERDRIVE gear added specifically to lower engine RPM at CRUISE for INCREASED FUEL ECONOMY - not top speed. We all know that "spirited driving" in a Z car is done in the first 4 gears anyway (unless you own a turbo car 😉...).

On closer inspection, I see his shovels are made in Mexico. Still America, from our neighbors to the South. I'm good with that. Commerce, trade and all that. I am feeling the urge to make a shovel guitar myself, and relearn how to play. It looks like fun, and I like to do things that are fun. I'll have to swing by the shovel section the next time I'm in my local small town hardware store.

I'm surprised that worked as well as it did. He even sharpied on a fret board! It has a very grimy sound, and I mean that in a good way.

Indeed!

My 123 worked perfectly in my 1/71. Your tach should just sense pulses from the coil and should be separate from the 123.

I don't really need the spring back. Keep your distributor together in the event that you need to put it back in for some reason. As for the problem you're having with your tach, there are a couple people here on the forum who have done the 123 ignition thing... Hopefully some of them will chime in with some help? I've not messed with that unit myself, but if you can't seem to generate any help elsewhere, I'll do what I can.

Apparently so. He's been driving all day.

Gotcha well I was able to find some pictures, I know I have a video somewhere but I couldn't find that one but anyways here is proof that the light motors and everything does work so if your friends who might want a Porsche let me know!

There is, or was/were, a kit(s) for swapping in a Chevy engine. But once you drive the L6 you might change your mind. Get it running first and try it out. Nobody has ever said that they wasted their time learning how to use a multimeter. It's a must-have skill for DIY stuff. https://zcardepot.com/collections/ls-v8-swap http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

I don't know much on this car but i'd love to research more about it, sounds like a blast to drive though! 🙂

Was there a guitar in that video? I only saw those double Ds.

Was it the fuel pump?

Bought this for a friend. 67 chevelle 383 stroker. 15k. It's currently in the port of new york

The later L series engines had electronic everything, and the thermostat housing has plenty of places to add another sensor, and you can retain the carburetor "cooling" line. 3/8" pipe is 0.675" diameter, and 16mm metric pipe is about 0.629". I was able to run a 3/8" pipe thread tap into the hole in the housing on my race car to allow the mechanical Stewart Warner gage bulb to be used. So you could give that a go. And one of the other holes could be used for a switch for and electric fan.

New shells and pins are easily available from Vintage Connections and several others. I can’t imagine just cleaning pins and putting it back in the old shell Have you looked at the wire in the crimps? Yuck! When i cut old pins off, then strip a little insulation to crimp on a new pin, i am time and time again shocked by the corrosion I find on the wire strands themselves near the ends of the wires. In some cases I’ve cut back a foot and still found corrosion. I scrap each strand clean and then put the new connector on in most cases. Lots of fun. Without re-wiring the whole thing, that’s about the best you can do, For all the high current wires, 12 gauge and larger, I often do replace then entire wire from the alternator to the amp meter and back to the fuse boxes. Those wires have to carry all the current they can and reliably. Which reminds me, I have to show you have to take new 10 gauge plain white wire and paint a nice permanent red line on it to make it look like a stock wire.... Later.

Oh, and that damned pillow is not for sale yet... 🥴