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I always thought cows in American continent where bigger =D Regarding the alcantara, I believe if you send an email they will support you in your quest.

Typical Chevy engine, hemorrhaging oil from every possible place it can. You know it is time to add oil when it stops leaking, eh?

dude a quart of oil for every 30 miles is alot. what was the issue?

Industrial Plating Inc Lafayette Indiana . This is a pic they sent so I haven’t seen the stuff in person . Here’s a pic of what I sent them from my last plater

That looks like a rad car, do you get track time with it?

It's been awhile for me, but the restoration is off and running. Windshield is out, rear hatch glass is out, both for rust to be mitigated. Engine is overhauled and complete, transmission is overhauled, front suspension is back in (shocks, rotors, calipers, boots, etc.). Next is the rear suspension, fuel tank flush, and start of rust mitigation. I'm hoping for completion by late summer.

From previous posts by @Awk34, it does appear as though he is running carburetors. I remember a few years back at a car show, a young man was asking me about what ECU I was running in my car when I was still using SUs. He didn't understand for a while that the car did not need an ECU for fuel or spark. Perhaps @Awk34 is trying to put a digital gauge in the car to replace the stock water temp gauge. If that's the case, I wonder if he wants to keep the oil pressure gauge. Remember the old days when most of the signals we used were 4-20mA or 0-10VDC?

I checked the condition of my 3.36:1 differentials a couple of days ago - the original one and the spare that came with the car. Both have more than the .0078" max back lash, with the one that originally came in the car at about .008". I assume that it has the... roughly 130k miles on it that the odometer and other records indicate. Some work to it (the original one) is necessary. I am inclined to disassemble, replace all of the bearings, and reassemble with the existing spacers/shims and see where I land. That said, I suspect the transmission is in similar condition (some measurable wear). I was able to get the car moving under its own power in my driveway and shift from first to second once without issue (at like 15 mph) before embarking on the car tear down. That is the extent of my knowledge of the condition of the original 4 speed transmission. I have not been thrilled with the idea of rebuilding the stock transmission and differential and putting them back in the car, if I am honest. I get that they have value if restored to original (or as close as possible) function and appearance, and are again put into the car. However, I think the driving experience will be "a little lacking" compared to a 5 speed with a suitable rear end ratio. So, while I will rebuild the original trans and diff, I will be setting those aside. Instead I will also be sourcing a 240SX 5 speed transmission and converting a 4.11 R180 differential (from a 86 Nissan 4X4 pickup) to a limited slip, which will utilize a new Quaife ATB unit. The differential will also be receiving a rebuild. Before beginning disassembly on it, I checked back lash (.005") and examined the ring and pinion. It looks quite good. The transmission still needs to be acquired.

I just sent some out! My first plater sucked so I found another one . These folks look like they did better . Can’t wait to see the stuff in person . Quick turn around too!

I have a pair of Porsche seats waiting to be installed, it will require a custom bracket but I've seen it done. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/82024-PT-datsun-240z @SoCalJim Beautifully done!

Not ready to rock and roll yet, but I did spend part of yesterday sitting without the inflatable pillow!

A lot of issues can come from modification and air leaks. 1st has there been any mods to the EFI or any other engine system? I dont recall a detail picture of the engine bay, it may help spot something out of the ordinary. as ZH mentioned your fuel pressure is too high for idle, that could be a FPR thing (defect or lack of vacuum), or a pluged return line, or a massive loss of vacuum, in which case the engine would run like poo. as far as the 0 pressure that is the way the system works, the fuel pump only runs when the engine is cranking or running. if you just turn the key to "on" but the engine is not running the pump will stay off. Its to prevent fuel from feeding a fire incase of a malfunction. A simple smoke of the intake system will find leaks. also a vacuum reading would be good, you should see around 15-18 inHg on a warmed up engine at idle. Vacuum leaks show up most when idling. Smoke out the system and look for leaks. Its very easy get a cheap cigar, plug up the front of the AFM, blow smoke into the intake manifold thru the brake boost port (attach a rubber hose and blow smoke there). watch out for smoke. I am assuming the idle adjustment screw works and the rest of the system is intact.

https://www.heller-leder.com/home-en This is the company, I went through my upholstery guy to order the materials. Hope you find what you need 🙏

I like to use smaller wires for stringing. The larger ones can cause shadowing problems. I will strip some multi strand cable and use one or a few fine strands to string fasteners. Depending on fastener size

4 Bidders still in above $25K 3 Bidders still in above $30K 3 Bidders still in above $35K -knocking on the door at $40K 1 Bidders still in above $40K I thought that it would sell - given the last couple months of the market - at perhaps $25K to $27K. Yes, it had most of its original paint - but still - lots of non-original and quit frankly less than cosmetically pleasing stuff. Nonetheless, glad to see the market showing a lot of strength. It will be interesting to watch the Silver 71now.. Carl B.

Wow the price on this one jumped in the last two hours...from $19k to $40k...for a '73 no less.

The Lemon Green 73 is up today. Sold for $40,140. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-139/

Certain elements of the 240Z electrical system were somewhat, ah, 'under-designed' by Nissan. The headlight circuit (all of it, including the switchgear and right on out to the headlamp sockets) is the leading culprit. The voltage regulator is a quaint anachronism -- easily replaced with a solid-state alternative if you want. There are numerous threads on these issues -- and their remedies -- here on the site. There are also relay-based upgrade mini-wiring harnesses for the headlight system that are conveniently available and at reasonable cost. For the most part, I see no reason to start replacing the connector shells, although replacing the terminals within them is (arguably) a better solution than the Dremel-cleaning strategy. To replace the terminals, you'll need the proper extractor tools and a good crimping tool (all available from Vintage Connections, who have been, in my experience, a quality vendor). We have a couple of leading electrical system experts here on the CZCC site and, if you're lucky, they may choose to add their 50 cents' worth here.

I'm confused... A real Alfa owner would never, ever, never, ever, ever call their car an Alfa "Romero". Ever.

I put seats from a '90 300ZX in mine. I first saw some at the old MSA Zcar show. Asked the owner to sit in in his car. They were way more comfortable and supportive. He said it wasn't too difficult to install. He and I used the original adjusters from our S 30s and drilled a couple of new holes. Went right in and I've never regretted the swap. My old tired butt and back thank me whenever I go for a drive. Cheers, Mike

The Zclub in the UK has a thread on seat upgrades at the mo with some interesting options. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/seats-again.27924/

As I've used that combination (Japanese market stock 15.8:1 rack ratio, and the 'short' 105mm knuckles) on four of my cars, I can tell you that it is - in my opinion - very sporting indeed, and not *too* heavy, even with the smaller diameter Izumi 'Datsun Compe' steering wheel.