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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2021 in all areas

  1. Thanks Bob.....It looks better in person. I suggested to my wife that we could display it on our living room wall........the bruises only lasted a week lol. Stop by sometime....I’m in Richmond and BTW, see if you can’t talk Todd into another Hampton Car Show.....they are the best!
  2. 2 points
    Yet another reason to eat mints rather than gum.
  3. Just wanted to say this was awesome! Love how you used a no longer viable shell in a way that is inspiring to the rest of us!
  4. okay so i had a few hours left today and i checked what would happen if i disconnected the CSV fuel line and then tried to start it. Its alive again!! thanks alot guys! i think the valve is indeed stuck open
  5. 2 points
    Hey @silentbug I think there are already people trying to help you out in the thread you posted earlier; Try to keep your issues contained to one thread so people can see what you have tried, its easier to get help that way. Often when people start opening up multiple threads, and DONT follow the instructions/discussions that are being held within the topics they start, the thread dies out and people stop posting help. I think ZedHead and Steve were walking you through some stuff to test out, I would listen to what they have to say, they are very well informed individuals and have helped lots of people get their 280z fuel injection system figured out, they are not wasting your time and their time trying to help. You will need a multimeter to figure out the EFI system, and YES its possible that the water temp sensor is messing with the system. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=multimeter&qid=1611644234&sr=8-5
  6. 2 points
    Tempting, but I don't know much about carbs. They need tuning.
  7. He built his own small fuel supply system in the engine bay, apparently. I don't think the ignition switch is involved at this point. I should add to my other point about the temperature sensor that if the wires are shorted the opposite problem occurs. The ECU thinks it's very hot and cuts fuel supply down. If we were all standing around the car pointing at things it would probably be running by now. But I think he needs to get that meter out and take just a few measurements. EFI is more about electricity than the mechanical stuff. p.s. finally figured out exactly how this "multi-quote" thing works. It's weird how these programmers will put all of these cool features in to their work but not give any instruction on how to use them. All of that coding effort, gone to waste for most. Wonder what else I'm missing.
  8. Quick screen capture of the spread sheet.
  9. 1 point
    Ok thank you I’ll stick with the other post Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 1 point
    The timing set is "Engine Pro" brand. I think it will be fine and I'll chalk it up as a learning experience of what to ask about next time before ordering. I HATE the thought of a master link in the timing chain! While the cam gear didn't have the notches it did have the indents labeled 1,2,3 so I do feel confident that it is properly timed. Just got the Z last summer, I've always liked to tinker with stuff but never really got much past basic maintenance items and bolt on accessories. I finally am in a place in life where I have the means and garage to really tear into an engine. When I was younger the problem was that whatever I was working on I typically had to be able to drive it to work the next day! I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have spent the last 26 years around golf course maintenance equipment, maintaining reel mowers to cut perfectly at .100" is a pretty delicate undertaking. During my first job after college I worked with a great mechanic on taking 8 old Toro mowers and combining them to get 5 of them to operate and function properly. He taught me a lot about laying things out, cleaning up all the parts and how to assemble things. In a nutshell I know just enough to be dangerous but thanks to some great books, this forum and no real deadline for completion I have been able to deal with the challenges that pop up on a project like this. Thanks again for your assistance, I'd like to buy you a beer someday.
  11. Now you can trouble shoot that, it could also be the thermotime switch, less likely as it tends to fail off, but easy to find out. try hooking up the CSV to a 12v source, use some clip leads to it and supply a 12v (unplug the csv from the wire harness, connect the 12 directly to the csv, never the harness) it should "click". if not its prob stuck, you maybe able to get some carb cleaner into it and try cycling it a lot with the outside source. Not a bad idea to run some good fuel injector cleaner with your next tank full of gas. I thought about it more, the thermotime ONLY gets 12v during the crank so even if it was stuck on, the only thing that would happen is the injector would fire regardless of temp and would fire as long as you held the ign in the "start" position. I don't think that would allow enough time for the flooding you are having. So pretty much has to be the injector.
  12. That's because that model of air dam from Kameri is designed to mount under the stock chin valence but on this car the chin valence is missing and he has attached it too high up. This is one I bought a few yrs ago but haven't used yet.
  13. The sandworm sold for $10,750. The driving video isn't bad. Probably worth it, a fun car that you can not worry too much about.
  14. if it looks like this, maybe you should take it to the Vet. 😁
  15. 1 point
    Yeah, the timing kits seem to be all over the place, but regardless of which one people use, there doesn't seem to be a lot of chatter about failures due to cheap or inferior versions. In other words... The timing kits all seem to be acceptable. That said, there are two things that I would really try to avoid. 1) Master links, and 2) cam gears without timing marks. I'd really prefer a continuous chain. What brand is that? As for the bright links, you can just do what you did and it's fine. Those timing links line up every 22 rotations of the crank (11 rotations of the cam), so you really only need them once: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/ The timing gashes on the back of the cam gear are more of a nuisance. If everything you're putting in is new, you can/could/should be able to assume that there is no stretch and the timing is fine on hole #1, but it would be nice to have those marks. That's the Cloyes aftermarket cam gear, right? So how new are you to this hobby? You seem to be doing pretty good for someone new?
  16. I'll put that on my longer range to do list, along with finding a 5-speed transmission. 🙂
  17. You can’t make this stuff up LOL! Don’t understand why it doesn’t sell, one just sold for $310,000.00. “Probably shouldn’t have used it for surf fishing....at least should have remembered to move it before the tide came in”!
  18. That's a Fred Flintstone Z.
  19. Well this looks good! Next project is to figure out is the single piece fuel rail and mounts plus injectors. Then they are ready to go on. Vintage SK ITB is coming together.
  20. Finished product......Z’s are cool eh? BTW many thanks to Zup for providing the door for my project. We’ve got some really great members.....it must have been a PITA to get it to Richmond.
  21. My painter only sent me one pic.......
  22. He must be from the east coast branch ...
  23. Poplar, Beech... What a sap.
  24. Amazing trunk space though...
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