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Zener. 3rd grade spelling bee runner up! Nerd alert!

Beautiful car.....great photography! Safari Gold rocks and so do your chrome bumpers. A great improvement Jim. Regards Guy

its been a while but ive made some more progress when i could. Working on getting a model of the 240z made as well as working on the double wishbone rear subframe.

I was going to tell you to get those needles out of the pistons as soon as you could. I didn't like the way they're sticking out of the pistons laying on the bench like that. Too easy to damage them. So I'm no carb expert, but for pulling stuck needles I've had good luck using some thin pieces or (grippy) rubber sheet on the needle and clamping down with a bench vise. Sorry, but I don't have any pics. The rubber sheets will hopefully spread the force out over a large enough area so you don't dent the needles, and the stickiness of the material hopefully provides the friction required to get them to move without slipping. Clamp the whole needle length and a little twist-and-pull. I've had good success with that.

Ssshhhhh-------------- Mine is sleeping.

So I’ve decided to start doing some small parts restoration at home. As anyone who is following along knows, the car is not at my place but about 35-40 mins away. I only work on it once a fortnight, basically a day of my R&R. So to keep motivation and progress rolling I’m doing these mini projects. First Mini Project is...

Yes! I have spent hrs chasing that sound thinking my bearings were screwed, a pair of needle nosed pliers and its fixed.

The remaining section length is 0.7” I believe. Let me go check a couple I have cut already. Better to be a bit short, you can add shims to push the alternator back and forth to position the pulley alignments

The bright orange 72 went for $26,750. Mid-20's to mid-30's seems to be the range for the "average" nice, clean, refurbished post-71 240Z. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-141/

I ordered one of these the blemish (a small welded tab) does not really make a difference to me, but $100 is $100. I like the way they look, should fit your 2.5" as well.

A vise with rubber soft jaw inserts should be suitable for holding the needle without damaging it. I would also try some penetrating oil where it inserts into the piston to try and free it up too. After sitting for so long there is most likely some corrosion where the needle seats in the piston, so take your time, and be patient.

Those body lines are so typical of the 50's and 60's European sports cars. They had a wonderful, flowing look to them. German, Italian, even British. I am moved to offer an irrelevancy, but one related by styling and period..... My high school graduation present was a 1958 Fiat Spyder (aka: Transformabile) with all of 55 glorious HP from its 1222 CC engine. Not even in the same performance universe, but the body lines are definitely in the same 50's genre...mine was the same white as this one. It had alpine gearing, which gave it actual acceleration but a top speed of about 75 MPH at 5,000 RPM. After 40 years, of which 30 was in storage, I sold it to someone who had the time and resources to restore it. Interesting article about the vehicle here: https://www.sportscarmarket.com/profile/1959-fiat-1200-tv-roadster

Jim....Jim...Jimmm... When do you put the wheels on the right side? Your right wheels are the left ones... look on the rim it says R and L.. for a reason.. When they are on the correct side the design sucks the air from under the car, yours are now putting the air under the car.. (those tireguys.. sleeping also..) A 300ZXTT and non turbo 1989-2000 has 4 different rims.. and there are 4 different part numbers on them CHECK THEM..

psst... mine to.. but i wake it every month to run the airco/climatecontrol.. and it saves it.. after 28 years still the original filling R12 and 5,1 degrees celcius at outlet! Also the hydrolic lifters need some action! And lately i hear that the heater system also needs action.. take it standing through the gears also good... yeah a good preservation needs some dedication huh? 20180418_142547.mp4

Perfect. I should have known!

Some pics from the 300zxtt past.. also the milage in kms in june 2007. Small pics from a former collector/fan and the big pics are mine back in 2007. Car is still as pretty now in 2020.

I ate a crocodile...

As you all know I’ve never done any of this before so I’m relying on you wise sages to correct my mistakes and give your worldly advice... I was thinking about doing one SU at a time just to have one to reference off when rebuilding but I’ve taken a lot of photos and feel confident I can put them back together using those. Let me know your thoughts. Planning to: -order a Ztherapy rebuild kit -vapour blast intake manifold, bodies and dome -replate hardware -new hoses let me know if I’ve missed anything critical few photos of dismantle on front SU

Indeed !

Celebrating my car's 50th birthday all month long!

Happy Birthday!!!

Check his avatar. I don't think he's worried abut his back.

Thanks mate, yeah figured that was the basics of it with a few exceptions here and there. Keep up the fantastic work! Ryan

AK260, Isn't that what I said ? 😀😀😀 (I have a Degree in Electronics also)

Will do. Been a tad hectic at home recently but will see if I can do it this week. OK, let me try to put my parents’ investment in my electronics degree to some use: you are basically correct even if you are saying it in an unconventional way. The circuit diagram I shared, while for a ‘70-‘73 model is basically the same in principle for all our “Smiths based” tacs (barring some small differences on the pickup side between the years). The inductive loop coil “pickup” (looks like a mini transformer) gets energised by ign coil pulses and creates a small current. The transistors you see are in what is typically called a “mono-stable flip flop” configuration. Let’s not get our minds twisted as to how the circuit works but in short, a positive pulse at the base of one PNP transistor turns it off which momentarily turns the other on - and so on - so it flips and flops from one state to another driven by the signal going high and low from the ign coil. But why do we need it you may ask? Well, the signal coming off the pickup coil is very weak and shaped like spikes. The flip flop circuit turns it into a square wave and it is effectively “amplifying” the current. That is a very crude explanation for the sake of brevity. The signal from the transistors provides a current strong enough to drive the coil of the needle. The electrolytic cap (the one with a + sign) is “smoothing” the pulses and preventing the needle twitching with each ignition event. You may know that every time you turn off power to an inductor, it flips it’s voltage to keep the current going the same direction before the magnetic field collapses - hence the configuration of that capacitor. I have to say, I’m quite surprised that a Zenner diode hasn’t been used to stabilise the 12v rail. Maybe it’s simply not been shown in that diagram. CO is spot on, those multi-legged components are packaged electronics. Right, I will shut up now and try to go to sleep! Insomnia sucks.

Firstly, don’t sweat it buddy, we’ve all done something like that. I used sockets too, you just got unlucky. Secondly, I erm, second what Racer and Zed Head have said already, I don’t think you’ve ruined anything either. The advice above is very sound. Finally, have you considered that it could be the metal guard on the flange? It’s a close fit and easy to knock out of round by accident! (See my dodgy red arrow mark-up below) Keep the faith, you will find it to be something very simple and insignificant.

Those dings might be rubbing on the washer that sits under the nut. So a little grinding/scraping like Racer X says to do should get it back to shape. Pretty common to have dings and scratches in there (for me anyway). The hub is supported completely on the races inner surfaces and the bearings. The rest of the metal in the vicinity shouldn't contact anything. If the bearing race seats are good and the races are fully inserted in the seats then the hub itself should be fine. There are two notches underneath the bearing race that are meant for punching out the old races. Best to use brass or aluminum though to avoid gouges. Make sure the races are seated all the way, no gap underneath. Not clear why you even took them out, you can just leave them in there for rotor turning, cleaning, whatever.

I remember when I turned 50. Mrs. Racer 2.0 organized a party, inviting all of my friends over. On buddy gave me 50 beers, and said I had to drink them all on that day. I tried, but I’m not a big drinker. Eventually I did drink them all, but it took few days. Maybe you should have your Z drink 50 gallons of premium gasoline, eh?

Put the wrong emblems on the car and you'll see it with regrets every time you approach the car. That's a beautiful car, small price to keep it authentic.

Being such an apparently stock 30zxtt, you already know the answer to your query. $$$.00 Beautiful car Mart!

You (and your Z) ARE golden Jim! Is that your latest trophy win? Happy Birthday from Zup and Zilver!

Go on line and use a gearing calculator to speed the effects of different ratios entering the fifth gear ratio of which 5 speed you have. If you have a a .745 and driving on the street you may want a 4:11.. Have you considered a Subaru STI CLSD R180?

Sad to see the sale off as of late from the pandemic. People have priorities and a Z car can make quite a few mortgage payments.

That's the Remover. AK260's was the Converter. https://jenolite.com/about-us/faq/

How about a blender and a bucket of lemons? AK260'z Jenolite uses lactic acid. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64766-citric-acid-and-rust/?do=findComment&comment=611145 https://jenolite.com/pdf/rust-converter-msds.pdf

Consider adding a resonator if you do. Some do not like the drone in their system.