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Got my test results today! I’m clear, phew!!

I made my own, I call it the AK Mount ;) If you are interested in doing the same I will update the thread with the final design of the one in the pics above. The original design was meant to work with the strap. The final one was much stronger and replace all that strap business ;) https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-%E2%80%9Cak%E2%80%9D-mount.27293/

Got both fenders in along with the lights. Will get hood and front valence next Saturday. Also got a stock radio from the owner and repaired the harness. Fortunately I had another radio to check for length verification and amazingly had a spare radio connector end in my box of Z stuff.

Or a record number of people going for Darwin awards. There's proof that stupid can't be fixed.

Parts arrived back from plating for the Z this week, both in yellow and clear zinc. Now for inventorying every nut bolt and washer and to allocate them back to where they were previously installed. This is roughly half of the yellow zinc parts that were restored. And most of the clear zinc.

Some more video of the engine revving along with exhaust notes. IMG_3327.MOV

Slowly rebuilding the hardware that returned from plating. Hand brake mechanism, fuel tank hardware, hood release, headlight buckets, HVAC controls, and the proportioning valve were first for reassembly. Also started working on the suspension components. Here's the rear control arm brace assembly, powder coated and plated hardware. I know the lower control arm caps should have been black instead of clear zinc as they are now, but I thought it would be nice to break up all the powder coated parts in that area. Front strut assemblies are also reassembled now. As are the front calipers. All new bearings, seals, wheel studs, brake line, KYB strut, rotor and pads.

Posted and sold within an hour on OfferUp. Just missed it. No idea how much it went for. listed of $1.00 The seller only posted this "Dad passed away just getting feels make me an offer" I expect someone got a great deal. Near Tacoma WA.

You should post up the dimensions. Looks like something a person could do with a vise and a drill. I had to find a friend with a welder for mine. Cost me a six-pack of good beer. One thing to be aware of is if the bushing/snubber is pressed too hard in to the top of the diff you can get diff whine in the cabin. I experimented with straps and clamps early on when I was working on clunk and had some pretty noisy experiences. Your middle initial isn't C is it?

Intelligence has its limits, but stupidity knows no bounds! I am staggered that people complain about the simple act of wearing a mask or just being careful in public. Ironically, quite a few people who marched against wearing masks in the UK, managed to contract C19 at the marches! One such protester I actually know in person. She’s been very ill and finally realised why simple precautions save lives. Let’s see if she finally dons a mask in public. On another note, speaking with the other parents at the school gates yesterday, we were saying how interesting it was that this year we haven’t had the normal level of colds and flu among the kids (or even the adults). Could the C19 precautions on hygiene be contributing?

Hi All, I started following this thread when I got back from an extended work trip and thought this link might be helpful: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7319377 Although these may be too pricey for some, Steve Nixon reproduces the cables and they are perfect replicas. I suggest that instead of creating another replica, time and money might be better spent supporting the efforts of those that have already done it. In reference to a few of the questions above: The Z Store does not have any of these original cables in stock and it is highly unlikely they will ever have them again. I purchased some of the last ones they had several years ago and have found a couple of sets from a Canadian source since, but recent inquiry informs that they are now unavailable. There is no discernible difference in the 70-72/ 73-74 cables. I have them installed on my 73. CanTechZ is correct. The positive cable is the only one that had a terminal insulator cap originally. Steve's reproductions have them on both in an abundance of caution. (Many Z owners do not purchase batteries with the correct terminal orientations) zKars your photography skills are really getting better---great closeups Jim!

I wonder what the billionaires are spending their money on, besides sending large phallus-shaped objects to the moon. Here's someone from your general region of the country to be proud of. Look up... Send a letter to Nick Saban. He has money. Shame him with Dolly Parton's example. https://www.theguardian.com/music/2020/nov/17/dolly-parton-partly-funded-moderna-covid-vaccine-research https://sports.usatoday.com/ncaa/salaries/

Use some 400 grit Emory cloth. Need to get everything down to bare metal. Including inside the eyelet of the cable.

I also made my own. It’s called $1.00’s worth of rubber hose. There is nothing wrong with the OEM design except the strap is too loose or gets stretched with time and allows the diff to lift too far tearing the rubber in the isolator. Just add a rubber spacer to remove the slop. Yes I should zip tie the hose in place so it doesn’t work it’s way out. So $1.50

I don't have to open my mouth! My actions get the laughs.

All the doctors are closing up their offices around here. No entry to the hospitals except the patients. But the restaurants are booming with business and COVID. Lazy arse non mask wearers are being told to turn around and get out at most businesses but not the restaurants. Crazy! When they do another payroll payback program that'll stop this. I can't wait.

I have definitely stopped saying anything humorous around other people. I think that a laugh probably projects more internal fluid out than a cough. And a good laugh is properly done with mouth wide open and elevated. I don't know why the various doctors don't mention this. So many fine details to avoiding spread that could make the other stuff easier.

Ordered a set on ebay, 104 shipped for both sides. Not cheap by any means, but if it means my doors close with ease, worth it. Koraps is still 26 per side, but they wanted almost 60 dollars for shipping 😨

Start by swapping out the incandescent bulbs for LEDs. Here is some trivia I documented on this site, and no one seemed to notice. The bulb spec in the FSM calls out bulbs that appear to be NLA. Pretty much all of the BA-15 bulbs these days are 1156 and 1157. They are a slightly higher wattage (and more current draw) than the 1034, 1073, and 67 bulbs called out in the 74-78 FSMs. The added current draw is not enough to blow the fuse, but it is enough to warm up all of the areas where some corrosion might have built up over 40+ years. Adding to that, IMHO, that circuit does not have the proper gauge wire. It's protected by a 20A fuse! In the control circuitry that my company manufactures, we never go above 10A fuses for 14AWG wire. After you swap out for LEDs, you might need electronic flashers. I have been using this type for many years: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1M9579 Also change out the parking light fuse from 20A to 10A. The current draw with LEDs is a small fraction of where it was before. The 10A fuse will protect the wiring better. (This is experience talking here.) Here's the link to my post on current draw for the parking lights:

That’s the sign that you need to do a relay upgrade before the combo-switch melts. 😳 burned my hand real good on my first car when I found that out the combo switch gets hot.

Vapor blasting on the right. Bead blasting in middle:

drove the brand new 260z to the high school prom. Was on the road yesterday on the radio was disco, yikes... but it did take me back! the new car next to me had some kind of thumping noise, think it was music, but I don't think the car will be around for long, sounded like it was rattling apart at the stop light. My old radio has maybe 5 watts max, that and disco not likely to damage spot welds.

I'm skeptical about the validity of taking photos out the windshield showing how my headlights look, but if I get the chance, I will do that. I'm not sure it'll add any value without having a fixed "point of reference", but I'll give it a shot. The best thing would be to have your car next to mine and we could compare. We should figure out a way to make that happen some time. I did my 280Z relays using a hybrid method of old wiring and new wiring. I'm still utilizing the original fuses in their original location, but the switches on the steering column are only controlling relay current now, not the high headlight current. So for me, one of the nice things is that the two headlight fuses in the fuse block are still labeled correctly, one per side.

I realized I have one good original negative cable on the new to me 71 I just picked up. Now “we” need one of those original blobs to use to make reproduction blobs.... I’ve taken detailed measurements of the cable, lugs, wires etc. Finding the very heavy lugs that Nissan used is going to be a challenge in todays cheap crap marketplace. The big cable lug is a brass or copper monster made with 2mm thick metal and has a lovely crimped connection done with a serious tool.

We were very fortunate with this Z and the little amount of rust it had on the body. The one area that needed to be replaced over the entire floorboard area was a small section in the passenger foot well. Based on the isolated area of rust here, it was most likely from the dealer AC system that was installed in the car. The rusted area was cut out, surrounding metal cleaned, a patch panel replicated, welded back in, and smoothed down for a seamless transition. In the process of welding it back in we replicated the factory spot welds so that it looked as it did when the car was first assembled.

So DC871F (actually, having just been watching the Rise of Skywalker, your handle sounds very Storm Trooper!) - apologies for my insomnia rant. I figure I’ve taken you off topic a little as your post is really about driving classic cars not all cars. When I was working in India back in 2008/9, I could see all that you are saying first hand. So could they, as you couldn’t even take a good enough photo of the Taj Mahal in the summer given the haze of pollution. At the time, they started making some efforts by forcing the most common and polluting city vehicles (the three wheeled tuck tucks) onto liquid natural gas. In 2019 they launched their National Clean Air Programme - but as you point out, they have quite a hill to climb. China has “recently” realised that the cost of pollution is too high and unsustainable, so it too has made strides - without spelling it out, here’s a good read ... https://earth.org/how-china-is-winning-its-battle-against-air-pollution/ Their problem of course (much like the rest of the manufacturing world) is the heavy industries like steel are difficult to curtail as they bring jobs and prosperity. Obviously time will tell how truthfully all these initiatives have been implemented. I feel that given the stature of countries like the US and the likes of the European Union on the world stage they really need to be the leading lights on this issue and lead by example. One of many reasons why the Biden approach compared with his predecessor is very welcomed by those who are concerned for the future of the environment. As for classic cars, in countries that care about air quality, it is inevitable that our cars will become curtailed in the areas they can be used. But that’s just the way of the future for all ICE cars.

Some pics of the GTR Festival - not really a race event but great opportunity to run the engine in. The video is above but her is some pics of the K from the event. Thanks to Maria Panova Photography http://www.mariapanova.com/

A while back, I happened to search the web for specs on bulbs, in part trying to answer someone's questions on an electrical issue. I have to confess that I have been lazy in calling out 1156 bulbs for side markers, license plate lights and rear markers. In the 74 FSM, Nissan called out the bulb specifications rather clearly. Type 67 bulbs should be used for rear/side markers, and type 89 bulbs should be used for license plate lights. I pulled up the 1156 specs today because I saw a comment on another thread talking about a fuse box heating up, so I made a spreadsheet to estimate the current draw. If all of the type 67 & 89 bulbs were replaced by 1156 bulbs, the current draw in the running light circuit would go up by approximately 12 Amps. That's more than double the draw of the factory specified bulbs. Check your bulbs to make sure you and previous owners used the appropriate replacement bulbs. If you want brighter bulbs, consider going with LED bulbs. The fuse box you save may just be your own. Running Light Calculation.xlsx