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Hi , I am in San Francisco today . I have just watched the movie “ Ford vs Ferrari “ I really enjoyed it , fantastic cars and stories. I hope someone make a movie “ Datsun vs Ford “ at Safari rally, that is going to be exciting. My friend Mr. Shimoura got this Shelby Cobra 427 , CSX6000 series continuation model for his birthday, he turned 70 ! He let me drive it , it’s fast and so much fun ! Kats

Wheels are stamped 10-1970 and the D hubcaps are the earlier version. Also includes the original spare wheel with its original Toyo tire. Seller is asking $3,500.00. Here's the link and the seller's description: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/albany-datsun-240z-topy-wheels-early/7024858826.html 1970 Datsun 240Z OEM Topy steel wheels & early D hub cap wheel cover that includes spare. “Full set” I bought these wheels close to 10 years ago from a guy who bought a series 1 240z new in 1970 off the show room floor. He had the dealer pull these steel wheels off and install the common aluminum wheels. The dealer stuck these steel wheels & hub caps in a box and he put them in his attic. One day while cleaning his attic he realized he still had these wheels after all these years. The boxes were weathered when I bought the wheels but the boxes kept the wheels and caps in great condition. He even had the original lug nuts. All the wheels have zero street miles aside from the rolling off the assembly line and being loaded on and off the boat and to the dealer. One of the boxes which was the one on the top took the brunt of the weathering so one of the caps has minimal oxidation. The rest of the early style D caps are in new conditions. If you look at the spare it has the same type of wear patterns (where the wheel meets the hub) as the 4 wheels. All 5 topy (oem) wheels are matching date codes of 10/70. The hub caps are the early version where the valve stem hole lines up with the spoke. The spare tire still wears its original Toyo tire from when it left the factory with zero wear & holds air. The wheels have been sitting in my loft in new individual boxes to avoid damage and moisture. It’s not common a full set like this comes up for sale. With the prices of some Datsun 240z cars hitting six figures this full set of matching date coded TOPY wheels and early D hubcaps with spare tire with original Toyo rubber will be perfect for the collector or high end restoration.

So now that our Z is almost finished, I thought I would finally join! My 19 year old son bought the car as a learning project that we could work on together with his 17 year old brother and their friends. The project has taken almost 3 years now and we are always just one repair away from having it completed. We bought the '75 280Z in Charlotte NC and it came with the original engine and a 5 speed. We imported it to the Netherlands where we live and started the restoration project. Now we almost have it on the road and are just working the kinks out of it. Latest problem has been a stumbling and missing when it starts warming up which has almost left me stranded. Still need to finish wet sanding and buffing the paint, then we can start enjoying the car. Oh wait, winter is almost here, so we will finish it just in time to park it for a few months!

Here are a few pics of it as it arrived from the port and as we started the tear down.Photos (2).zip

We have created a generation of kids that are addicted to social media, have no real skills and expect everything to be both easy and free. We will pay as a society for this. My kids don’t have phones but all their friends do. I don’t know who said this but I like it. “Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.” We are creating weak men in my opinion. When I was a kid both my Grandfather and Father could fix and build anything and worked their tails off to provide for their families. People today are generally helpless, lazy and at the same time arrogant. Sorry for the rant! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the most thorough hoover job I've ever seen!!!

That's hydraulic hose. Not fuel hose. Replace all of it, with 1400 psi on it, asap.

I ran across a few early parts on eBay this morning. One being another hand throttle for a mere $2000.There are a few other parts listed and all pretty high priced. The ad says it is an auction broker out of GA that will be selling off a hoard or 69-70 parts from a 71 year old collector. Must be the retirement fund. They also claim to have a 69 barn find HLS30-00061 that will be posted in the future. Says they will be listing many items over the next year. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRA-RARE-1970-Datsun-240Z-Twin-Choke-Throttle-Cable-Assembly-Matching-Knobs/293346720178?hash=item444cd3b9b2:g:ORIAAOSw9sdd2trd Cut and paste from the ad : Attention Early 1969/1970 Datsun 240Z Collectors! AuctionWorks is consigning a lifetime collection of rare Z series 1 parts… AND a couple of cars as well!! We have connected with a 71-year-old gentleman who has been collecting all things early model 240Z since 1970! The vast majority of his collection is October, November and December 1969. He has a large storage unit filled, floor to ceiling, with rare, hard to find parts. We will be selling all of these a few at a time over the next year. BE SURE TO ADD US TO YOUR SAVED SELLERS LIST & CHECK FOR NEW ITEMS LISTED REGULARLY! ** BONUS ** He also has two of these early model cars! One is a '72 model with original paint and only 50,000 miles!!! That is his "baby" and he is considering selling it, but is undecided at the moment. The other one we will definitely be listing here on eBay in the near future.... IT IS #00061 - YES, the 61st 240Z sold to the public. It is a "barn find". Color is red, and he described it a "rebuilding project". Stay tuned to our listings as we sell this incredibly rare collection along with number 61! Car will most likely be listed in spring 2020.

The damper and pulleys should swap easily. No need to do so though. Since you're using carbs you don't need EFI hose. Just get some quality fuel line. You will probably need to do some exhaust system work, depending on where the L28 came from and how complete it is. The L24 manifold and down pipes might be smaller than L28 parts. 280ZX manifolds are different from 280Z manifolds. Basically though, the L28 and L24 engines are almost identical on the outside. Everything should swap over.

Welcome to the group! That looks like a great family project, can't believe you kept it a secret from us all this time. Looking forward to your pics of the finished product.

@SteveJ Not the same car, this is a 432R. This is an upcoming Auction. @Wheee! Try this link. https://www.thedrive.com/news/31176/this-1970-nissan-fairlady-z432r-could-become-the-most-expensive-z-car-ever-sold

Visual proof that your Hoover sucks. ? Dennis

Excellent!

Those knobs don't look correct, the earlier ones are more rounded and the screws should not protrude. also they should be "handed", choke with offset to the left and throttle with offset to the right. Here's a picture from this ad: For comparison see the pictures in this post from @240260280. Also more reasonably priced back then, LOL.

Dave, I really appreciate your time and effort today. Thanks for documenting today’s events which will come in handy when we revisit the AFM in the future. Once it’s back on the road I believe we will have a better idea on dialing it in. I think you. Accomplished quite a lot today just seeing the car for the first time. At this point as you documented earlier to focus on the gauge issue for now and move on to the drive train swap. Thanks to everyone for the guidance in order to get another Z back on the road. I’m looking forward to the next challenge ahead.

fouling plugs was the main issue. We met up and I went over the system. New plugs get black and wet pretty fast (minutes of running). However this is just a start up and idle (extended long enough for the T stat to open) and a few short burst, so the rich look may just be due to no extended normal use to burn off the start mix. I did the remove the oil cap test after the car warmed up, it would increase in idle speed and increase the vacuum (indicating a rich mix). A check of the FP looks good, 36-38 engine off, 30 at idle with a vacuum of just about 16inhg. The AFM had broken glue gobs so I assume it had been messed with at some time in the past. I brought my known good AFM from my test engine, We swapped it, and the vacuum deepened and the remove the oil cap test resulted in a drop in idle, worsening running. This lead me to believe the AFM was suspect. 1st I opened up the orig AFM bypass to allow more air to bypass the flap. this helped (deepned the vacuum) but did not lean enough to get to the point of lean enough to pass the oil cap test. I could improve the idle with the AFM by holding the flap more closed (lean) so we proceeded to tighten the clock spring about 3 teeth total. Reinstalled it and the orig now adjusted AFM, reset the bypass. Now removing the oil cap results in a marked decrease in idle performance. For some reason I never check the CTS resistance after warm up so that could be an issue (I just forgot, duh), but I discount it since the spare AFM I brought seemed to work so well. I am not sure the orig AFM is optimized, its better but I did notice a small backfire (exhaust) just as we were wrapping it up for the day (goose the throttle, left off, minor backfire thru exhaust). I suggested just reinstall the airfilter (it was missing) and stop any further work on the EFI until a road test can be conducted to test under actual driving conditions (could not test today). Aside from the possible rich fouling (which may not be an issue at all once a more comprehensive drive test is done) the engine sounded great. smooth, all injectors clicking away, no miss, no excessive valve noise. We had a temp fuel supply setup (gas can on elevated platform to simulate correct fuel level). as the tank is not yet installed. I suggested checking with a local marine store about a prefilter (not the G3 fram but a 100 micron designed for prefilter use). This as a precaution against any large particles fouling the OE pump screen. I am running such a filter and have had no issues with fuel starvation. I noted on the G3 my pump would make noise, not so with the large as designed prefilter. After its ready to get on the road we will check and see about a fine tune of the AFM. For now his efforts will concentrate on getting the temp gauge/fuel pressure gauge to work. We tried shorting to ground the temp sensor wire, and inconsistent results, sometimes ground would work some times it would not. Odd. I suggested getting a new sensor and fitting for mounting since I was having a very hard time getting a good ohm reading direct off the center terminal to chassis ground. The oil pressure was a bit more confusing the sender seemed to be working 90ohms engine off 0 ohms engine on (that seemed odd but I tested it to my car and I got the same results). Clearly the sender is doing something yet the gauge was not even coming up to zero key on. I check the voltage at the oil pressure harness. I expected to see a wide flux in the voltage on my digital meter as the built in VR on the gauge duty cycles the supply. This is how my gauge works, 0 to over 10v constantly changing. I should have brought my simpson 260 which I think would be a better meter for reading this VR voltage. Anyway on Yarbs car the voltage was very stead right around 2.6-2.8 volts. I suspect a VR issue or some other problem with the gauge it self. Ground the oil pressure lead from the harness had no effect on the gauge. He is going to need to resolve this gauge issue both for the temp and oil pressure before getting the car on the road. the rest of the car looked very rust free. he only has a couple small areas that will need attention, but the area under the battery, the floor pans, around the wheel arches all looked very good. The frame rails look good as well. I am pretty sure it had the orig paint, so it would show its problems. Oh and checked the timing, set to 10bdc and confirmed the mech advance was working (visual it would advance with rpm).

Thirded. (or fourthded?) On the low end of the spec range. What number was it your machinist recommended? I know you told me, but I don't remember what he said. Glad the indicator survived the trip. Always a little apprehensive shipping measuring equipment. And don't forget that you'll likely have to grind the ring gaps. Make sure you're ready for that!

I agree, on the tight side but inside spec. So I would move on...

Hopefully it cured enough. The directions say until the smell is gone. A lot of radiator shops that do them bake them to speed it up. I used a leaf blower and sat mine in the sun for a week then it wasn't smelly. If you use a clear filter before the fuel rail, I like before the main one myself it's easiest, it should show trash pretty quick. Good luck! Reading along but can't add with these guys. They are good.

I hope PS30-00166 finds a good home this time. Feel like it's getting flipped between owners. I'd love to own it and fix any issues it may have.

At Suzuka circuit last week a special auction was held . Do you remember I posted a report of visiting S20 heaven last year ? Mr . Watanabe who raced GTR and built so many S20 for customers passed away last fall . It was just several months after I visited him . I still can’t believe it , he was so passionate about S20 , even he was making his own special head which can be directly mounted on S20 , working with a factory in Italy. His huge collection was auctioned . Everything was supplied even a S20-000001 with a GTR restoration project, and also the last S20 “ 002722” with a Ken Mary restoration project . Just amazing . I was so lucky that I won one thing , the race option Z432 exhaust manifold. This is going to be put on my spare S20 with other race option parts , and some Works parts . The auction results can be seen here , https://bhauction.com/result/suzuka-sound-of-engine-auction-2019/lots/ You will be surprised most of them sold with very good price for current Yahoo auction crazy. Kats

Here are some posts from an archived thread started by Kats, whom I consider one of this sites authorities when discussing the S30’s restoration. Dan