Leaderboard

r

I have heard it said that the bright links of the timing chain will "line up with the timing marks ever now and then" when you spin the engine over. Well... I'm here to put a number on it and that number is eleven. I lined up my timing marks and then rotated the crank to see how long it would be until the marks lined up again, and the answer is that they line up every eleven rotations of the cam (twenty-two rotations of the crank). Not being satisfied with only experimental results, I counted teeth and links and stuff. There are 20 teeth on the crank gear. There are 40 teeth on the cam gear (makes sense since the cam spins at half the crank speed). There are 110 "teeth accepting holes" in the chain. The common multiple (modulus maybe?) of all of those numbers is 440 and it takes eleven cam rotations or twenty-two crank rotations to move 440 link holes. The links of the chain will line up in the same position every eleven rotations of the cam. And because everyone likes pics... Timing chain and pulleys:

I'm no expert, but I wouldn't chase the threads in the block with a tap unless you really really have to. I wouldn't want to remove any metal, and running a tap in there has the risk of cutting out metal that does not need to be. I would use carb cleaner and a small round metal wire brush first before you resort to a tap. If, after wire brushing, the head bolt threads in easily all the way to the bottom, then you're good to go and it doesn't need to be chased by anything more aggressive than that. IMHO.

Man has lathe, mill and drill press and most definitely 'could' have made my own, did considered filing, but was not at home at the time of the discovery and need for a solution. Had to resort to the solution of spending money. But thanks for the vote of confidence.

The ad says it all. Fast cars, loose women, cigarettes, and Playboy. I miss the 1970s. Maybe that's why I have a '71 Z and a '70 Porsche. ? Dennis

I bought a couple of used control arms recently and wanted to pass this pix along to reinforce the idea that the yellow used by the factory was pretty thin.

I just realized that the 280Z has a deeper front cowl and more curved lower valance, meaning that stock air dams for the 240Z do not fit! What I am looking for is a spook type look for the 280Z. Not interested in the urethane wraparound style that replace the lower valances. Any ideas from the armchair experts? My front end: The issue with the 240Z style:

I would say not - the rear spoiler doesn't provide enough down force at subsonic speeds - but it looks cool and balances the car (visually at least).

Bright ideas come from bright people! Thanks!

I believe what wheee! is subtly attempting to point out is that those cavities are actually partially open and direct the air in the general direction of the brakes - no mods required - everybody happy... ?!!!

Oh, it's still there. I had the head work done by Dr. Marcus Nichols at Plexicorp.

If that doesn't work, then maybe you'll need to try a tap. Not denying that there are circumstances where it's necessary... Just saying that I think it's an overused and often unnecessary procedure.

It's a plan. You just need the correct brush. And I've found it most effective to stuff the brush all the way in and then rotate it in the direction that unscrews it. That tends to bring the gunk out instead of driving it deeper. And then at the very end, give it a couple blasts of carb cleaner. Stick the straw down the hole and cover the hole with a rag while blasting And don't get any in your eyes.

Dam it! So many choices!

Ok wow no clue whats going on but reversed the green and red and timing is right and revs all the way up and no issues whatsoever. I literally have no idea why it works with the wires reversed but it does. The timing is right, the advance is right and the acceleration is right. Im now running the green wire on top and the red on bottom and it works perfectly. I definitely did not reverse any wires so Im not exactly sure whats going on?

Looks like a Nardi Personal with an inexpensive after market lace on leather cover(the spokes are not tended to). It will take a 240Z specific hub adapter, to go on the column, and the wheel will bolt to that.. Should still be available from Nardi/dealer, but you might luck out on ebay...

You could think of the openings as dead bug collectors - or, perhaps, you could wield a hole saw and acquire some clothes dryer vent hose and build some real racy brake cooling ducts - fog/driving light receptacles(?) - or put some black wire mesh over them and keep people guessing. There are a whole lot of dam options...

I bought every issue hoping someday I'd find a sudoku puzzle.

The head bolts, like ALL M10 female threaded holes in the block, are 1.50 mm pitch. Pretty much all other M10 bolts on the car are 1.25mm pitch, certainly all the suspension related bolts.

Well I just bought a new HEI and it definetley was the issue. car starts now but it seems my timing is way far forward to the point that when I adjust it, it sits at 15 degrees and wont go any lower at its full adjustment. Looks like I have a little more work cut out for me

I cranked mine with the plugs out as well, figured less stress on the crank and main bearings until the oil pumped up.

Should the Chinese characters be in a different color for legitimate Canadian currency?

Perhaps this might work? https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B02&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

I am not sure but I think the 81-83 also used a reverse nut on the main shaft, CW to loosen, Just some thing to consider when trying to disassemble.

Frankly I'm a little disappointed. The zKars I know would have spent an unreasonable number of hours filing and measuring the POS pot metal spacer until it was accurate.

LOL!! Missed it by this much! No big deal. You ought to be getting pretty good at adjusting it by now.

I think the age age range was actually 13-19 yrs.

Change oil. Put fresh gas in tank. Remove Valve Cover. Pour oil over cam and rocker lobes. Disconnect 12v lead to coil. Crank engine while pouring oil on cam. Keep cranking until pumped oil comes out of cam lobe holes. Once you verify oil is pumping, you can then close valve cover, reconnect 12v to coil, and start car.

I'm out! ?

Doh!

Ok, Site, if we are going the self-gratifying route (?), here is another option; just go the Euro balance tube route, get rid of everything else!

Decided to bolt together the front end for a peek at the alignment. Not too bad.. some work to be done but I think it will be fine.

280zxt dizzy is done. I vapor blasted it the housing, wrinkle coated the godzilla race works cap and new zinc hardware. I might not be able to live with the size of it. It's pretty huge.

Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential. I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd. I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest. Which has the correct trigger wheel. Pretty neat. Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend. Pretty excited!