• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Persimmon240

  1. Subtly perhaps, but if you look closely at your photos, I believe your cat has declared the winner.
  2. Yes, those ports originally connected to hoses that lead up to the vapour recovery/expansion tank behind the passenger side c pillar. The following article shows the way the original system was "plumbed" along with an alternative solution - which appears to be what a previous owner was attempting on your tank. Hope this helps... and you were able to get yourself "wired".
  3. Regarding the hold down bolt coming lose - I believe it already has a lock washer on it. You could also indicate in the install instructions (if required) that a wee dollop of blue thread locker might be advised. How many instances of the stock plate anchoring setup loosening up have been recorded?
  4. "About time" - as it has been over 50 years that this problem has been looking for a solution. "Time slots" maybe? "Time out".... stop me!!!
  5. Or, if you are impatient - or want a more thorough job, you could use a tool designed specifically for lubing cables. They clamp on where the cable meets the housing and there is an opening for the straw on your spray lubricant of choice. Just Google cable lube tool...
  6. It is the two piece steel straps (one that also doubles as a header pipe heat shield) that use the existing oil pan bolts that I was referring to. Feedback so far indicates that they were installed on (all?) L24/26/28 engines beginning sometime in 1971.
  7. Wondering if any of the historians out there can tell me when the 2-piece oil pan stiffeners started (and were discontinued?) being installed on S30 engine types (240/260/280). Thanks.
  8. I would say not - the rear spoiler doesn't provide enough down force at subsonic speeds - but it looks cool and balances the car (visually at least).
  9. The front ends of S30's do get light at "highway" speeds. Front spoilers are functional - which is why the Euro models came with one from the factory.
  10. I believe what wheee! is subtly attempting to point out is that those cavities are actually partially open and direct the air in the general direction of the brakes - no mods required - everybody happy... 😀!!!
  11. You could think of the openings as dead bug collectors - or, perhaps, you could wield a hole saw and acquire some clothes dryer vent hose and build some real racy brake cooling ducts - fog/driving light receptacles(?) - or put some black wire mesh over them and keep people guessing. There are a whole lot of dam options...
  12. Perhaps this might work?
  13. Actually, I believe that Bugs Bunny used to say "What a Maroon" - but I digress....
  14. Just one suggestion to the OP's question. Instead of using silicone to seal the lens to the taillight, I would suggest butyl strip caulking. The stuff is black and is non-hardening and waterproof. It used to be called dum-dum (no, I am not making this up). 3M, Eastwood and a bunch of other companies make it. Comes in 3/16" diameter ropes that you set into the grove where the lens sits in the housing. My local auto parts store sells it by the one foot strip (2 required per taillight) for $.30 each. Just cut it where necessary for the drain holes in the bottom of the housing/lens. This will allow you to remove the lens at some point(s) in the future - if necessary - without damaging it. One warning; it does stick to everything - kind of like anti-seize!
  15. I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?
  16. How about checking the rear control arm bushings? One side could be bad, allowing some "toe" changes on accel and decel.
  17. Your second picture indicates to me that it isn't a piece off of your Z. Perhaps the tool fairy had something to do with its appearance - hence the dime.
  18. It looks like it is metal - a roll pin to be more specific. The bottom of the distributor shaft on a 240 would have one. The small gap along it provides a press fit - so not likely it fell out. I can't recall where another one would be located on the parts you have removed. You don't indicate the year or engine you car has but I believe the ZX distributor has a plastic collar at the bottom where the pin is located. Perhaps the plastic broke and the pin fell out. Just a guess, I'm afraid.
  19. Let's assume that the odd one is perhaps a replacement. So you figure CSI stands for Crime Scene Investigation(!) - or Carroll Shelby Incorporated (nah, he never used an acronym on the wheels he produced). This is just for your edification... try putting a drop of vinegar on an unpainted spot on each wheel. If the vinegar stays clear then they are aluminum - if it turns dark, then the wheel is magnesium. There were (and still are) a lot of "reproductions" of the original Minilite style. Look at the current Panasport wheels for example.
  20. They look very much like Minilites to me - but I defer to somebody with "wheel" knowledge of the subject. I was going to say knockoffs, (but they have lugs) - in this case the better term would probably be "replicas".
  21. They look like hood side rail bumpers (2 per side) and they reside on the portion of the fenders inside the engine bay to center the hood when it shuts. It looks to me like some new ones might be in order - that or many more beers!
  22. Here is perhaps a better suggestion if you are running foam air filters - use a product made for oiling them, rather than motor oil. There is a company called Uni Filter that has oil (and cleaner) for this purpose. I used these filters on my dirt bike for years. Check out The oil (and cleaner) is available at Amazon, Walmart etc. - or probably any motorcycle/ATV shop near you. I would really not run them dry. Hope this helps.
  23. Gary, There is still emissions testing for metro Phoenix and Tucson. Exemptions include "model year 1966 and older vehicles and vehicles designated as “collectible” (requires collectible vehicle insurance, reported to Arizona Motor Vehicle Division by insurer)". So if your 240 is a daily driver, you will need to get it tested. Also, if your vehicle is registered outside of Phoenix but you use it to commute to anywhere in the city, then it will need to be emissions tested (provided you are not exempt as above). So arm yourself with your Hagerty, Grundy, etc. insurance policy before heading to your local MVD office to register. The MVD also do a cursory safety inspection (clipboard walk around) if the vehicle is being registered from out of state (at least they did 10 years ago when I registered mine). My take at the time was that if the vehicle looked roadworthy (read shiny and looked after) then the inspection was a formality. Good luck!
  24. olzed, My shop manual indicates that the "Gear carrier to rear differential mounting member lock nuts" should be torqued to between 54.2 and 68.7 ft-lbs - or, if you prefer metric, 7.5 to 9.5 kg-m
  25. Eric, use a zip tie.... preferably one that matches the exterior color of your car.