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The original paint/non-original paint thing started to get silly, and the pushing for a paint thickness meter examination started to look like bullying from at least two people who have an interest in prices going up. Surely if anyone wants to verify the paint they should go and see the car in person and make their own decision, and that would be their advantage over others in the auction format? I'm still not sure how these BaT auctions can be classified? I've always considered auctions as a format akin to a game of poker, where serious buyers don't want to show their hand until the last moment and the 'game' was to get something for less than you think it is truly worth. Instead, BaT seem to foster the idea of getting the price up no matter what, and some of the people making comments on the live auction are actively showing their hand ("I'm out", "I'm intending to win this"). I find it truly bizarre.

I don't know if I ever documented my storage bin mod. The basic story is that the bins are there on your car but there's no lids and there are no threaded inserts spot welded into place on the mounting holes. The holes are there, but no threads. I took some steel plate, cut small rectangles, and drilled and tapped holes: Some double back sticky tape to hold them in place until the screws are installed: And I stuck them to the underside of the sheet metal where the cargo bin lids attach. This is without the threaded plates: And this is with the threads in place. Double back sticky tape holding them in place: Then get yourself a pair of lids from an earlier car and screw the lids in place: How's that for a thread-jack?

Best of luck with the auction! Hope it exceeds your expectations ...

Thanks Guys! I REALLY appreciate the kind words! My health has been steadily improving, and I am getting back into the Z community! I am also sewing up a move, so while I am a lot more active, I have a good number of things on my plate-that said I am getting my garage ready for sewing up some stalled 240Z projects in addition to sewing up my Z32 'verts. I am already holding my schedule for Zcon next year-and hoping to lend a hand in it! I do miss the old crew, but I hope to meet all of you there and be a part of a new one, and explore your Zs! Every time I see a 240Z I have to fight the urge to bring it home...and to get elbow deep in it! or immersed in conversation about it! This weekend I'll be going through your pics here and getting to know your Z adventureZ!

And his "efficient" method of leaving the glass and window components in the doors along with other items not removed on his "exploded" paint jobs. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Sorry, yes I have been talking about the main voltage regulator, that is what failed on my car. I still say that if my system voltage was moving up and down with the engine speed the gauge would move too. But I am the guy who pulled the head of my motor when I had an electrical problem.

Bidding always escalates during the last few minutes of the auction. I don't expect any movement in price until then. And I agree about the "Guild" guy, he should be barred from posting in any other Z auctions as it is really a conflict of interest for him.

True, and unfortunately, I get drawn into these commentaries on BaT. I can say it here, but dare not say it on BaT as I would probably get pretty beat up there, but I have to say that the 'Guild' guy is pretty hard to live with. He has sold a number of Z cars on BaT and is quite the salesman, but is beyond obnoxious in pushing his points. And, he pretty much thinks that he is the authority on the 240Z, often embarrassing himself. It is sad that he is pushing the paint issue. While important, the only reason he pushes it is that it is a service that he provides. While considering himself a restoration shop, I consider most of his work average and for the most part incomplete. He will do enough work to sell a car and make it look nice, however, the work is often incomplete and just general clean-up. Again, just enough to make the sale. The thing that bothers me the most is that he claims to speak for the entire Z community and to be the top authority. Sadly, he is neither of these. Anyway, this is just my personal opinion. Sorry in advance to any who are offended.

yes, buying cars, then 'swapping back', constant messages about spending 'free money' on them due to increasing values. I'd love to play poker against those two.

This seems to be a very nice example. I think it's probably at the top of the price range, but nice early examples are selling higher. I wouldn't put much faith in this being some low mileage example. If I could take a moment and call out the the 'facebook experts' for their serious lack of knowledge and inability to seek reliable, documented information. Whew!!! Those people say the damnedest things!

My restoration is finally finished. Now sitting in the show room at Robert's Automotive in Springfield, Illinois. 1981 280ZX Grand Luxury Edition, Manufactured September 1980. I drove it off the car lot on January 12, 1981. Features: Engine rebuild, original paint, original carpet and seats, re-upolstered interior and headliner, re-plated cadmium engine parts and restored wheels. I haven't driven it for almost 24 years. Original miles 25,536 and I have all documentation to back that up. I paid the ultimate price for NOT driving it - an entire engine rebuild. Everything works except the status display in the center of the instrument cluster. (See photo) Need to figure how to trouble shoot the status display. Needless to say I'm excited. I will be able to take it home before the end of next week. Still needs to have the air conditioning system re-charged.

@wal280z no sorry, i was referencing a splice the PO put into the car to what I think could possibly be to bypass the fusible links? No idea yet. One step at a time, I'm just trying to get this baby to run lol and ignition/fuel is more important than the headlights currently.

I like his overspray jobs!

Have you tried the crude but effective "fuel pressure gauge hanging out of the hood" method. Real-time pressure readings will tell you if the filter is clogged.

Len, Considering I don't have much experience performing diagnostics on FI, your input is greatly appreciated. I hope to change out the fuel filter this weekend and test, weather permitting. First, I'll test in the garage to make sure I am data logging. The software wasn't designed for an operating system as advanced as Windows 7, so I might have to find a refurbished XP machine. Once I confirm I can log data, I will go for another drive, and I will try to note the time response. Like so many others on this board, I'm not a spring chicken, so I'm not going to rely on my memory about whether the power loss was fast or slow. However, I don't recall hearing any backfire, and that I'm more sure about. Considering the fact that my engine is not stock (2.8L with higher compression and possibly a non-stock cam), it could also be a combination of filter and map. It helps to keep in mind that with the SUs, I previously had issues with being a little lean toward the top end and used 1/3 racing gas to help prevent detonation. By the way, welcome back.

I don't have the dimensions written down, but I will get them. I can tell you, however, that (within wide limits), those two dimensions aren't really important. It has to be big enough on the ID to pass over the bearing surfaces without binding, and it has to be small enough on the OD so it doesn't interfere with grease flow into the balls. Other than that, it doesn't really matter.

Look at this thread. I describe the operation of the fuel pump relays for the 78. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62552-78-280z-turns-off-with-turn-signalreverse-lights The interesting thing about the linked thread is the time it took to resolve because the problem was upstream (corrosion at a factory splice) from where the OP and I thought the problem resided. Basically, here is what you need to do. Verify that you have good connections between your battery and all of the fusible links. Verify you have the proper functionality at the relays. Verify the proper functionality of the oil pressure switch. Verify the proper functionality of the ignition relay. The most important thing is that you need to be able to use a multimeter well. If you don't, find someone who does. You'll also need the wiring diagram. @wal280z has created a color version of the 78 diagram. He may be able to tell you where he posted it. It may also be available in the downloads section of this site. I have a link to the downloads section in my signature (visible if you are on a computer).

Chas, Thanks for asking. Yes, it's been since my daughter was born. I had forgot just how fun little ones are and how much your world revolves around them. Everything is going well. Busy, as usual. My oldest child (27) just got married, and my youngest (5) just started kindergarten. Looking forward to finishing up the HellFire & related projects now. I miss working on the Z. Len

Again, I feel for the seller as there's a few people on there trying to create themselves as the focal point for all things 'Z'. It goes to show just how people believe what they read on line and how when a collective get together it can become the norm. Not to mention the endless advertising that one of the posters does.

I didn't check out the car in this BAT auction, but some of the details about the one I posted about. Supposedly original owner and supposedly just 49K miles. There was some circumstantial evidence to support the mileage claim, and I assume there was a Pennsylvania title for the car that would confirm or deny the original owner claim. There had been some bodywork done on the blue one I posted about. The story was that something fell on the car while in the garage and mushed the hood a little bit. The owner fixed the hood and (if I understood the story correctly) painted it himself. It was unclear if the rest of the car had been repainted or if it was original paint. There were several blemishes in the paint where it appeared that the top layer of blue had come off showing a slightly different shade of blue beneath. There were some areas where it appeared there was a tape line, but it's unclear to me if it was a tape line, or a natural delineation. There was evidence of some "not crappy, but not great" rust repair on at least one of the dogleg corners. The blue one had some engine compartment modifications. Probably some sort of electronic ignition aftermarket mod. From what I heard, there was lots of electronic and electrical "thingies" around the house, so it appears the owner had some electrics experience. I would be willing to use the term "Survivor" for the blue one if it was original paint. I would use the term "good neglected condition" if it had been sprayed.

Well my 1977 280z goes live on BaT in about 2 weeks, so far they are really easy to work with.

Watch out for those acronyms, Kats. 'STD' might be 'Standard', but it's also 'Sexually Transmitted Disease'...! Nice YMO cover! I worked with them some years ago.

Thank you so much Alan ! I didn't know there was a edited version. My mother used to be a Kimono craftsman , and also she used to help others to wear Kimono . Definitely short hair is STD we think (however I don't know about 1000 years ago ) . I can imagine that , if foreigners wear Kimono , it could be both (short and long ) . When I saw the long hair lady in the picture , I felt pretty much "it is a overseas style " . So, this 240Z with Kimono ladies was on the display at Beverly Hilton ? Or Pierre Hotel ? In the 80's , we still saw her hair up as a STD . A cover from Yellow Magic Orchestra (US version) . Kats

Pour gas down through here and fill the float chambers. I call them chambers but they're float bowls too. When you get them full try sticking a wd-40 red straw down and see if you call feel the floats moving up and down.

Kats, You will see two different versions of the 240Z USA debut 'unveiling' photo. The version in the Nissan 10-year report volumes is different than another version, as one has been 'edited' and the other has not. I have seen Nissan using both versions. They are clearly both exactly the same photo, but in the edited version the lady on the right has had her long hair airbrushed out to make it look shorter. My wife (and I believe her...) says that she thinks the 'long hair' version looks "wrong" for a classic Kimono-wearer in 1969. The lady on the left looks far more correct, with her hair up.

Honestly, I see more cars at shows north of $50,000 in restoration costs WITHOUT labour factored in, I'm not surprised anymore. It will always be cheaper to buy someone else's finished product than to do it yourself....

By the way , this book tells us unique but reliable source about how many Fairlady 240Z series ( 240Z / 240ZL / 240ZG ) car’s were registered in Japan . Maybe total 2600 only , that is a very few I think . And 240ZG would be more than half of it , or even 80 % ?? At that time over 2000 cc car got painful tax on it . An Interesting thing that I have heard is even though 240ZG was the most expensive one in the Fairlady 240Z series , people who was able to own those price range chose 240ZG . This tells us how well G-nose effect did for people and for car. Kats

Steve, I figured out what/who (I hadn't checked my pm box in 4yrs) & have emailed them . Apologies in the open forum for my lapse in returning the part, remedies in the works. Len

Ms. Z

PLN

So glad to see your post Will. I consider you a giant among the "old guard" CZCC posters that were the early inspiration for me to follow. You, 26thZ, Bambikiller, Enrique, Beandip, Arne----you know the crew I refer to. High hopes that your health issues improve and that we hear from you more often. It would really be special to meet you and extend a handshake in Nashville next year! All the Best to you Will! Zup

@hls30.com Yes, what Guy said!

Welcome back Will....we’ve missed you!

Waking up and older thread, but I wanted to say thanks guys! I really appreciate the kind words. I had some SERIOUS health issues that came to a head shortly after the 2011 convention and have been gaining steam since. The story of the coins is this, I asked Karen Roeder to design a logo that would work on a banner and a coin. I gave her minimal requests, and she knocked everything out of the park! I had 350 gold plated and engraved coins made for three Uses, 1) As a thank you and to show my appreciation for my local crew(coins 1-20) the next set was as part of the award for the Car Show,and the last set was made up with the model name of the cars(S30, 240Z 260Z, 280Z S130, 280ZX, Z31 300Z, Z32, 300zx...) to sell in the auction. I had extras after the convention, and I started selling off my 35 years of collected NOS parts, I thought, why not share them with enthusiasts, so when someone bought something indicative of a proper restoration I put one in the package...if I sold something oversees, I put one in the package...I still have a few left, and I have been considering what to replace them with as I ramp up to selling off the last of my parts, and a few surprise pieces... I kept 3 coins for me #1 and I had one made with HLS30, and one with Z32C for me. Yes, I am ZconSavannah GA on Facebook, and will be posting more here in the coming months!

That's quite the softball you're throwing for Cliff!

It doesn't matter how big and strong you are if you don't have a way to get leverage. Fortunately I know 50 ways to love my lever.