Leaderboard

It's alive!!!!!!! I ran a compression test before I started it (so it was stone cold) and the highest cylinder was 175 and the lowest was 160. The max differential between any two adjacent cylinders was 10 psi. After all the crap I found wrong done to that engine, I'm pretty happy with that. I have all the valves set a little loose because I'm thinking they might tighten up a little bit over the first batch of miles as everything beds in. I don't want any of them hanging open, so I set all of them (intakes and exhaust) to .011 cold. The plug into the water jacket seems to be holding, and it sure is nice to be able to tighten down all the bolts on the valve cover down and have it not seep oil. That's a new one for me with this car! Might just be wishful thinking, but my oil pressure seems a little higher. I'm thinking that since it's not gushing out the seam between the cam tower bearing and the head anymore and actually feeding the cam bearing. @jonathanrussell the cam seems to be quite happy in it's new home!!! So far, so good! I'm gonna drive it for a couple days and then give everything a once over to see how it's doing. Pull the valve cover and see if I'm wiping any lobes off. Check the lash. Change the oil. Do another compression test. I forgot to pick up new plugs too, so I reused the old ones. I'll pull them and see how they look, but I'm not sure it'll be an accurate representation. I'll replace them soon. So, about the only thing that I'm worried about is I don't think the exhaust header is sealing properly. Stupid header. Not sure if it's a gasket quality issue, or a header quality issue. My copper nuts worked out great, but didn't make it seal.

Thank you. Appreciate the well wishes! It's going to take some time for me to regain confidence in the motor. Now I have to finish pulling that F54 block.......

? Ya, I noticed that after I reinstalled the speedo a few weeks ago. I've just been too lazy to get back under there to change that lower right bulb... I don't do much night time 140mph driving anyway. I mostly use that left side of the speedo. You guys may have shamed me into doing it before October though.

I have a set still in the box I could sell you for $999.49 (less than $1000) ?

Its all back together now. Nice and tight and well sealed. I was making it more difficult than it was. Ended up to just grinding 1/2 of the washer down. That was enough to get them to sit good enough. Also I found that 4 longer studs needed a couple extra washers, The nuts were tight and washers looked good but closer inspection showed the nuts had bottomed out to the unthreaded portion of the stud. Its really easy to overlook a problem like this as you can't see a thing doing those bottom manifold studs. Even with a mirror. I think I had this issue even before I put the headers on. This whole thing started because I could not get the carbs to respond to adjustments. Real bad air leak from intake after the new header install was the culprit. These carbs have never responded this well to changes. Very happy with it now.

There was a QC sticker provided on a separate piece of paper with an explanation of why it wasn’t on the damper, because the damper needed a protective coating, BUT be assured it was inspected. I will say they were very apologetic and sent a return label immediately. Customer service was good. Full review when I get another one

On its way to you Monday... !

I am designing up a coil bracket like the Blake one but uses nissan RB coils. This uses 2006 350z coils heads (Hitachi IGC0003 Ignition Coil) and spring. Then a boot from a 2005 Chrysler 300. They fit perfect.

Well I have decided on ITB for my build. Carbs sound cool, but the smell of gas in my garage is driving me nuts. My HVAC unit is right next to my car in my garage and the fumes seem to move into the whole house. I also think the mikuni 44s are a bit much for a stock 2.4L. I bought the jenvy 45s, injectors etc.. from Datsun Spirit. I will probably do a haltech elite 750 ecu. I got a hoke trigger kit for my stock 240z pulley and will do some sort of cam sensor from the dizzy spot. Goal is to look basically period but be EFI. I will re use my SK intake.

I believe the necks are indeed different. However, you are holding a unicorn in your hands if you have a good 75/76 EFI fuel tank! They are very rare and you should be able to resell that very easily for anyone looking for a full size tank

Like those $250 SUs.

Had me excited for a minute... Sherwood Park is 20 minutes from my house. Sherwood Oregon is a little further lol

If you want to see the stainless steel bumpers in person, I have them on both of my cars, and I'm within a decent driving distance.

There are repros available but they are not cheap. Good originals are even rarer and not cheap. Dented and bent rusted ones are plentiful. I sold a set this weekend for $160 US to young guy trying to restore a car. He will need to spend a few hundred to have them cleaned up and painted and many more hundred if he wants them rechromed.

Replaced springs with Eibach using the same shocks. Front is now back to normal. Vogtland still says not their spring problem as theirs never go bad. What a joke.

What is the black coating inside the left rear quarter panel? Also wonder why someone painted the rear panel black around the upper license plate mounting points? Are you going to leave the dealer installed AC in the car or take it back to stock?

Here's a few more photos of the car it's going to the body shop tomorrow.

I think you're right. I think it will have some tiny impact on the compression and performance numbers as well. But I'm only off by .003 on the intakes and .001 on the exhausts. I'm pretty sure that I'm leaving a tiny bit of performance on the table, but for the first batch of miles, I'm willing to take that tradeoff for the piece of mind. Of course, I'm not an expert on the topic, but that's what I'm thinking! Maybe I just need a padded cell:

Took a Sunday drive down PCH to pick up a second L28 - N42/N42 today. Plan is to build this into a 200hp+ NA motor in parallel with the build and in 12-18 months to upgrade to Megasquirt and drop this motor in. Most of the accessories (alternator, AC compressor, clutch fan, valve cover, flywheel, fuel rail, exhaust manifold, etc.) will be coming up for sale so if anybody needs anything let me know.

Yes, stock 3.4 watt bulbs, green plastic domes all cleaned, and repainted inside the cans with flat white. The lower right bulb in my speedo is not working. I just haven't gotten under there to replace it... Too hot in Phoenix. The speedo is the latest gauge to get new white paint inside though. In my gauges, the original paint inside was kinda minimal besides being discolored. I generally covered the entire inside or as much as I could do with flat white. Flat also seems to make the light disperse a bit more. Repainting seems to make the biggest difference.

I never knew they shared a stage before! Obviously not in the same league though.? But sometimes you want you want something sugary and then sometimes you want to get stoned and lay back. And even then sometimes you want both!

While you have those gauges apart you should pull the guts and repaint the insides of the cans a nice bright flat white. No matter what bulbs you choose, that will always help. Personally I don't like the harshness of the LED replacement "bulbs" that I have seen - I'm very old school that way. But repainting the inside of my gauges made a huge change in the brightness even using stock 3.4 watt bulbs.

The easiest way I 've found is just to look at the threads heading into the nut, they will be sloped in one direction, turn the nut so it will climb the slope away from where it is now.

Cross member, control arms, TC rods, sway bar and some other parts freshly sandblasted and powder coated. Ready for new bushings tomorrow and hopefully get the front end reinstalled over the weekend.

unboxing

interesting video on a dash removal. He is doing a complete strip down, hence removed the steering column. Looks like if the wheel was off the dash could be worked out without removing.

Welll that happened fast. Sold already, must have been a good deal.

Well another set back or two. After staring at my valve train I realized my lash pads for the exhaust were to deep in the retainer putting the rocker too close to the edge. So I ordered a larger size and will sacrifice a little on my desired wipe pattern , but should gain more clearance for my rocker . Also, my BHJ damper came in , but had defects so I had to send it back. Check your parts closely guys ( didn’t sound right did it -lol). When you are paying serious $$ for performance stuff it shouldn’t have defects. ?