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This topic picks up on a mini-conversation that I started on Grannyknot's 280Z build thread. These little washers are an important part of the NVH isolation design for the Z's rear diff. The design, from an engineering perspective, is a lot more sophisticated than meets the eye, so there's an incentive to try to install a proper replacement if your own have deteriorated (which they probably have, if they're 50-year-old originals). Unfortunately, the part is NLA from Nissan and none of the primary Z restoration parts suppliers offer a substitute. There's been some discussion about the need to use vulcanized rubber. I think that's a red herring (look up, 'vulcanized') and was meant to infer that the rubber part needs to be bonded to the metal part. While the originals might have relied on a heat-bonding process, its now 2019 and we have aerospace adhesives for this purpose. So: All we really need is the rubber part. Steve / Nix240 has cobbledup a wide range of rpreviously unavailable rubber parts for our Z's. I see nothing special about re-creating the moustache bar runner washers, other than using a suitable durometer rubber and having access to a good-condition original to create a mold. After that, they could be bonder to a suitable metal washer and, presto, we have another part taken off the NLA list. I think these washers carry across the entire 240-26-280 series without any differences. Maybe even the ZX's? Also: I'm thinking that the same might be the case for the Series 1's diff front insulator. Steve creates the rubber piece, then the owner carves the perished rubber out of his insulator, cleans up the metal armature, and then bonds in the new rubber. @nix240z Steve: What do you think?

Picked up the fenders, fuel door and hinges yesterday from paint shop. Fenders are just resting in place. Will probably wait till engine is done before I do actual install. Also got the last of my plated items. Will get most of the plated items on the engine tomorrow.

Ordered "Made in Canada" Clear front turn light Lens (Fathers Day). https://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z They will be used in HLS30-00147 (natural blue) as a tribute to the 1969 Tokyo Motor Show car. Now to find a radio antenna hole blank! Anyone have a pic? Found it!

Funny, I don't remember ever seeing that kind of money. I sure wish I hadn't sold the 1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70 now, if I had put a bit more detail into making it more stock who knows what it would go for these days. So I got the engine/tranny in today but before I did I thought I would weigh them, the engine by itself stripped down except for the mounts, no fluids was 304 lbs. With the flywheel, clutch pak, and transmission, 435 lbs, the chain and tackle were 8 lbs. The last pic is as far as I got by the end of the day, I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

Located in San Diego. Looks like the seller is asking $16K? Here's the link: https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/d/san-diego-datsun-240z/6908824590.html

Just a teaser for now without much explanation but this could get very interesting! Will do a proper write up as to why and what when I finish the work ... 1/8” increments ... Webcam pointing into carb mouth Nice view ... Timing light with rev counter fixed in field of view for analysis, need to improve lighting ... Let the fun begin!! Ah, no! Children’s activities stopped play at the crucial moment! [emoji22]

Add $2,500.00

Quite a few of your parts made the cut, most of it was in better shape than my stuff.

I know this. It took 25 years.

I think it was longer ago than that. Life gets in the way if you let it.

My engineer son got his Bachelor's and Master's in four years at USC (the one in California), decided that was enough school for a while, and has been in the workforce since 2015. I like to point out to him that his starting salary was about the same as what I had worked up to after 30+ years on the job with my Master's degree. Engineers are in high demand. Today, he's flying back from Montreal where he had spent a few days shopping for satellite dishes for his company. As I often say, "It's good to be him.". Dennis

Mission accomplished

I'd thought of doing something similar to this using a pencil, with graduated marks, in place of the stem and "twisty bits".

As has been pointed out by others, the moustache bar isn't really part of the rear suspension. It's function is to provide a fixed/flexible rear mounting system for the differential. None of the (primary) suspension loads feed through the differential. See diagram below for more understanding. That said, Steve may find this distinction irrelevant to his overall policy of keeping away from parts that he feels may have high potential for liability issues. I guess we'll have to wait to see whether he responds.

I hurt my back a week or so ago trying on sneakers at Academy Sports. It's a lot of bending tying those laces.

That one won’t last long......looks like an easy Resto.....nice dash too if it’s not a cap.

BAT is about to get some competition as Hemming's is starting an on line auction site. I hope they're going to be practicing the due diligence absent fro BAT (wink, wink, nudge, nudge)

Ok soggyfishtaco, I spent a lot of time going through Paul's invoices when I should have been working on customer's cars but here it is. Beginning in 9/93 I replaced a lot of parts and fasteners that were worn or incorrect. Remember, back then most of this stuff could still be had from Nissan. This is not meant to be a complete list, just some of the high lights Battery cables (2), radiator fasteners, distributor fasteners ( I still have a few factory screw sets), valve cover loom stands, oil pressure switch and voltage reg cover. I also did some routine maintenance. Someone had lifted the car without padding the lift arms so I also repaired some related damage/scuffs 5/94 saw the replacement of his dash, carpets, trans tunnel vinyl, heater control valve, horn relay, etc, etc, etc Several visits where I replaced things like headlamp assys which just didn't meet Paul's requirements, installed the correct radio brackets, etc Did a lot of intake/exhaust manifold detailing and other stuff which lead to the Gold Medallion at Atlanta Given that a restoration is never really finished the next several years up to 8/17 saw maintenance, left door hinges, a starter, left window reg, carb rebuild (Z Therapy did the throttle shafts and I did the rest) 8/17, final visit. He brought me an NOS air injection manifold and fuel rail which I installed with fresh factory gaskets and fasteners, etc Cheers

OK i had to check this because I have a original fender on the drivers side and a new fender from Nissan that I bought around 2011on the passengers side. Drivers side (original) 11.8 at front, 11.0 at top and 13.8 at rear. Passengers side(2011) 9.3 at front, 9.4 at top and 12.4 at rear. So it looks like he is correct.

I put it off until the first week of July. I'm off the whole week, so I figured I could focus on it.

Well test run didn't go well, I have a strange crack sort of sound when I got from stop to forward and back and also a slapping sound at higher speed. Trans seems to shift fine. It's a little too modern feeling, I am thinking it might be better without the short throw shifter. Hopefully it's something dumb. Noise doesn't seem to be coming from the trans or the rear end. Rear end doesn't whine. Which I think is good.

Fenders and hood are Nissan parts bought in 2012. All were black.

Yes, I should know better. I've seen so many corroded connectors on clocks that I just replace every wire /connector. The thing that fooled me is that the connectors didn't look bad, but corrosion is resistance. Thanks again for the input. Ron

Hi Kats, They both look 'period correct' to me, but I find it's often hard to give 100% positive identification on such parts because they tended to supersede the design quite quickly and there could be several versions. Added to which - as you have noted - privateer users tended to have their own theories and experience, and would modify to their own specifications. And then there were copies, and copies of copies. Yours look trustworthy and correct to me. As a reference point, here's a photo of some genuine Works team S20 cam sprockets which were used in period. Complicated!

Should you find some OE trim in decent shape, consider swapping the squeegees off the current ones to to the OE pieces. Its a pretty easy task - lose the staples and use pop rivets to attach the squeegees. Been there, done that! Sign me Just Another Jim.

Your original engine serial number should be something close to L24-016xxx - or it could be as early as L24-014xxx. L24-120799 would have been found in Z's built around 08/72. Casting numbers on the Aluminum Head from 08/72 would be E88 - where Casting numbers on the original engine would have been E31. The Casting numbers are near the front (radiator side) of the head.

A stock 1970 with original parts in excellent shape (original or restored) is valued >$50k these days..... modify with care. Values are going up!

The package arrived today. I had to unbox it to take photos.

Totally agree with you. As far as the seal part, I found that they have little open area at front bottom part of the lense. Is it water escape area? I have total of 2 new sets and 1 used one, and they all have this 1/2 inch opening on the seal. Esprist