Leaderboard

What I don't get is the little circus that about 3 or 4 people have on their between themselves? It reads like they're bidding as they want to to be the first to pay 100K. I think we should let them. A fool and his money are easily parted.

I believe that title date has more to do with delivery date than build date. My car is #6521, also a 7/70. My warranty book shows a delivery date of Aug. 28/70 and is registered as a 1970. If yours had a delivery date into Sep. '70 or later, it may explain why it was registered as a '71. Either way it is a first year S30. For ref. here is the ID page from my warranty book.

More upholstery pics. Got the seats complete and mostly installed. That white sure is bright .....I end up washing my hands every five minutes to make everything stays nice and clean. I really love the colors and think this area will look pretty nice once I refinish the steering wheel. Need to check with @jayhawk about the seat risers. With the new seat foam, you sit pretty high. I sat in the passenger seat that still had the black plastic risers installed and my head touched the headliner. For the drivers side, I took the risers off of the rear attach point of the seat since @jayhawk is fairly tall. I think his wife is a bit shorter and she may want the risers. Anyway, once we get that figured out, I will secure the seats in. (I had the drivers seat stacked on top of the passenger seat for several weeks and it made a depression in the middle of the passenger seat foam. I am guessing that will fill back out over time or after someone starts sitting in it). Got the vinyl installed on the rear shock tower areas also. That is the difficult section to install. I wanted to finish out the wheel well vinyl, but the factory missed putting in the hems on the ovelapping edge. Wife says she can sew that up for me. It's surprising, as I recently installed a blue vinyl kit from the same manufacturer and the hem was done correctly. This one was overlooked. Got the parts that were sent earlier this week wire wheeled and off to the Plating shop. Also started the evap tank hose install. Will hopefully finish that out tomorrow and post pics.

If my memory is still working, that's the month. Definitely a Series 1. Dug out some old paperwork on "Hiro". April 1st, 1972. (I forgot it was April fools day.) I do remember driving by Gran Prix Motors in my 69 SS 396 Chevelle and seeing my soon to be stunning yellow Z. It was a spur of the moment decision. A short drive later and I deposited $15.00 with Joe Black to hold it until I got back from the bank with the sum of $3695.00.

My original Z is #08750. Series 1. Registered as a 71

I go through it every day, Steve. Both of my 1969 builds are titled as 1970 model years. My sympathies.

They were listed as 1996. They were from the restore program by Nissan USA.

Don't forget the two 240z's that sold over $100,000 in 2018 thanks to @kats

Vehicular midlife crisis. In Fire Appliance Red, no less.

Ah, The Chevelle. It came with the Muncy (rock crusher) 4 speed. There were many things I liked about that car but in 1973 the gas crunch dropped the value of low mileage cars. I sold it in 74 for $800.00. Saw an identical one sell for $67,000 on Barrett-Jackson a few years ago. That said, after buying the Z, I was done with the Chevelle. I fell in love with sports cars at an early age. Thanks to the book "The Red Car", my insatiable mechanical curiosity, my sister's 58 MGA (which I used to hotwire and drive at the age of 15), it was only a matter of time before I ended up with a sports car.

That’s where I left my Devo hat!

Trapezoid is the correct shape. The one I see on Ebay appears to have an AM/FM dial and the later style opening for the antenna control switch on the upper right. Early faceplates had a vertical rocker switch instead of the smaller horizontal switch opening as seen in the item shown. Dennis

I can see the casting marks now. It’s an off the shelf caliper but with custom piston sizes for the Z. I talked with zcg this am about it.

Just went through and updated the links on this thread. They should all be working again.

I was telling a guy the other day, I’d be happy to return to the days of no cell phones or internet. Life was better and we teated each other with more respect then. The internet has also become a place for cowards to troll around. It takes all my energy as a parent to keep my kids off these machines! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is de-evolution. The internet was a great open book with simple tools for creating content and finding content. After migration from the military, it was widely used by schools and their computing science students who developed sites for openly sharing their subjects of enthusiasm. Since then marketing and business people have been muscling in on the openness and poisoning the sites with aggressive advertising. As the tools for using the internet became easier to use, non-tech people (including grandparents and kardashian followers) started using the Internet en masse and far surpassing the techy pioneers . This influx of non-techy people also opened a whole new target for criminals . Companies like Facebook went a step further by developing ez-pz tools that a monkey could use and gaining favour with the non-technical masses who flocked to the closed site. Now Facebook is copying tools such as classifieds (like Craigslist) and such for it's internal closed network of minions who don't know better. They effectively are making their own little private internet and destroying the benefits of the internet. It is exactly the same as what China did. The problem for us, and the sellers, is that we have no visibility of Z parts for sale in Facebook classifieds. The openness is gone. It is privatization along with divide and conquer.

The s/n aligns with 07/70 so it is an earlier Z. Usually they sold as hot cakes so it probably landed in Aug/Sept and was sold instantly; however,it could have landed later and been registered later in the autumn. A clerk at the DMV may have entered it as a 1971 model year as the next-year-cars are sold in the fall. 7184 falls between the two 07 cars below:

The comments section on Bring-a-Trailer auctions can be a bizarre watch. Having live bidders commenting on the very thing they are [potentially] buying opens up the way for all sorts of trouble. Vintage automobile values require slow cooking. Blitzing the dish in a microwave is a mistake.

Congrats on the new (almost) arrival! From what I can tell, the VIN #HLS30-007184 looks to be a series 1 car. But, notes on the VIN search shows that some cars even down to 03xxx were titled as 1971's as well. http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

Ok, It's fixed! I had a suspicion it was the plugs under the dash in the passenger footwell so I took them apart and reseated them. I also found some corrosion on a plug coolant spilt on while replacing the heater valve so some combination of reseating and cleaning plugs got it running again. While I'm here, what is the best way to clean all the body plugs since you can't really fit sandpaper in the plug?

I though it might be 4RE red. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

I can’t say a price. But I will say it’s the most expensive on the market. But it’s the only one on the market that will clear 15’s. Honestly I have 3k carbs. I should have the safest/best brakes I can. Brakes and judgement are about the only safety options are z’s have.

Punchline: In this unique case, the G in G-nose stands for Grille. Yes. It's a genuine Fairlady ZGrille.

And... one has to love the originality of the bid amount!

Looks like I have to bleed the brakes on my 1971. Before I tackle this project, I'm going to buy Speed Bleeders to install on the front calipers and rear drums. Here's a small write up about what I've found, in case others want to follow this path. Speed Bleeders by Russell Performance: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/import.shtml IMPORT CARS SPEED BLEEDER APPLICATION GUIDE One Person System Takes The Work Out of Brake Bleeding...Bleeding your brake or clutch line has never been easier or simpler! Revolutionary double-patented Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valve in your caliper/wheel cylinder with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique design opens to allow the old fluid and air out, then closes automatically between pumps to prevent the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. It's a real time saver! Year Model Front Rear Front Rear NISSAN/DATSUN 80-98 200SX 639560 639560 - 639560 89-98 240SX 639560 639560 - - 69-78 240/260/280Z 639560 - - 639570 79-83 280ZX 639630 639630 - - 84-89 300ZX 639630 639630 - - 90-96 300ZX 639560 639560 - - Looks like I need the following part numbers, since I am still running stock calipers and rear drums: 639560 639570 I found these part numbers on Amazon (of all places): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOB6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOAM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You can chip it out but if you are going to sand blast it you need to remove the oil baffle entirely, lots of sand can hide in there and destroy the engine later. I used 3Bond 1184 to seal the oil baffle and securing screws, it has held up well over the years. Best to wait until the powder coating is done before reinstalling the baffle.

whats the disc size and thickness? Also total all up weight of the components? I've been working on something similar

Thanks @Captain Obvious...got those washers inverted. Thanks also @Zup and @Terrapin Z for the parts. Things are coming together here. Will get those non-brass/copper parts plated.

Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly.

Speed bleeders have worked very well for me for years, some times it is hard to find someone else to pump the brake pedal and speed bleeders make it a one man operation.