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NO - this is Kent. I lurk here sometimes but never post ....

The new ones from nissan are more rounded vs square original style. original style reproductions https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4484439

You got a deal there Guy! If it doesn't fit send it on down to Alabama.

It won't let you say uhsembly.

Hi Guys. My name is Kent and I am a long time lurker here. I have several 240z project cars - none completed - but lots of ambition ....but that’s a story for a whole different thread probably. I started this car a few years back and, skipping to the point, I recently realized that I needed to take a step backwards in order to go forwards. I had replaced the floors and fabricated some new floor rails, but I realized that it would be nearly impossible to replace the front rails and firewall rust without stabilizing the entire chassis. Plus the rad support was repaired poorly by a previous owner at some point. Rotisserie was out of the question - way too much rust... Here she is on the completed jig .... a The jig was made from 2 x 2 x 1/8 tubing. It supports the chassis at stock suspension and drivetrain points - front swaybar, front crossmember, trans tunnel, and both side of the rear differential mounting point. I also added a support for the front strut tower, and across the door openings as I will be cutting out a lot of the firewall and the front rails. All the dimensions are available in the FSM. It is bolted (not welded) to the chassis. The whole structure is very rigid and I think that the firewall and frame rail replacement is going to zip right along. Here’s how she came together, in pictures .... hopefully this inspires someone else to get back on the horse. Cheers! e ;

I had sticky nozzles that wouldn't come up plus bad out adjustment on the valves. The PO had used 1/4" fuel line (if I remember right) for the hose from the float chamber to the nozzles. That does not work very well. Bought the thin wall hose from ztherapy, adjusted the valves and boom, new car.

The Koni Yellow news above is just awesome. Can't wait to give it a try on one of my cars- probably my 75 280z. FYI, I just rebuilt every component on the underside of my Silver 72 240z- bushings, struts, springs, steering, u-jonts, everything. My goals for the things that impact the suspension were.... - reversable if I want to go back to being completely stock. - minimize play in steering response. - fairly flat cornering but not obsessively so. Not a track car but totally fun on mountain roads. - a bit lower than stock but not screaming as a lowered car. - street friendly- doesn't pound when you hit bumps...not overly noisy...not bone jarring when on imperfect roads. Still though...firm. So, the good news is that the choices I made seem have met my goals. I really like how the car rides and handles and the stance is perfect for my tastes. The suspension is pretty firm and fun in corners. I could now use better wheels and tires though. There are no big bangs and jarring when I hit bumps. My theory was that the two things I have done to my Z suspensions in the past that have caused unpleasant, jarring ride characteristics on the street are... 1) performance anti-roll bars and 2) poly or missing bump stops. Here is what I used for the suspension. - Koni Classic red strut inserts. - Koni soft progressive bump stops ( sorry but I don't have access to the size I used until May). - Used set of good condition MSA blue lowering springs. My guess is that the Mulholland springs are similar but I don't know. Would be interesting to measure the coil sizes and count the number of coils. - Energy poly bushings with liberal application of the Energy bushing grease for....front LCA, steering rack, steering coupler, rear inner and outer LCA, front anti-roll bar end links and mount, rear top strut spacer. - Rubber bushings on the front and back of the T/C rods....though I am sure I could have followed the advice of most and used poly in front and rubber in rear. - New ball joints and tie rod ends. Cleaned and greased rack. - Cleaned, greased, reused original front strut top bearings. - Stock anti-roll bar in front. No anti-roll bar in rear, as was stock. So, having written all of this, I do though think that a more advanced dampening system would be great for our cars which is why the news about Koni yellows is so interesting to me. Best of luck and I hope this helps. J

Barely used embroidered Datsun Racing jacket Don’t let the size fool you I wear a L for all my jackets and this still fits me fine - it runs small 12 dollars plus shipping smooth lined inside with pocket very warm

Absolutely. I've seen footage on TV.

PM sent

You didn't mention if you found any foreign matter in the rear float bowl chamber or the needle and seat. My thought on the front carb acting up is, it has now picked up some crud like the back one. I'd start by cleaning the float chamber in the front carb, reset the floats to the recommended level, reset the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns down, use a Uni-Syn to balance the carbs. As it's been running kinda poorly, I'd also change the plugs, and reset the valve clearance too. Basically, a complete tune-up to eliminate any other possibilities. It's also possible that the nozzles are sticking in the down position when the choke is off. With the choke lever off, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. If you feel the nozzles move up, lube the outside of them with some lithium grease. It may start better, for now, by using no choke and part to full throttle to compensate for the extra gas.

Thanks. Now I need someone who needs one to see this.

None of those things are a problem if the rest of the car is one piece (relatively). The fact the front end is destroyed makes those things less desirable as a parts car. Or a tube frame rebuild.

I've read the same thing on the internet, but have never talked to anyone that actually happened to. Probably because if true, (since the internet says so) there are very few folks still around that actually owned Flat Top cars during the warranty period of the '73s and '74s. In my case, even though I had no problems, my dealer installed the V3 kit (electric fuel pump, fuel rail insulation. etc) at no charge. I purchased the car in April '73 and the V3 kit was installed July of '74 at 11,022 miles, immediately after I returned from a 8 month Navy deployment (the car was in storage from Nov '73 to July '74) So the issues with the carbs must have been cropping up early in '73 since Datsun started installing HMB46-2 in production in '73. My car is a 10/72 production, so it had the -1 carbs until I foolishly installed round tops in 1980 at 117,000 miles. A little side note: In August '74, my dealer hosted a Fun Run through the Cascades and Datsun sent a rep who gave a presentation on the new flat top carbs. I do not recall details of his presentation, but do recall it was positive about the nice new features and advantages of the carbs. So they were making a case for the carbs even to owners in cool climate western Washington. (nobody I knew then with '73s or '74s had vaporization/percolation problems, but the climate likely had something to do with that)

Well a local spy just asked if I have any fenders and hood for sale. Seems a friend of a friend bought this thing and thinks they can save it. Gotta love a dreamer.

OK guys and gals...... next up on the Pay It Forward thread.... In case anyone has forgot what Marty posted way back in 2009, nearly a decade ago (and yes, the thread carries on, Thank you @Marty Rogan) Up for grabs this time is one of the last remaining bits of a 1973 240Z, VIN HLS30-1630XX HEATER CONTROL arse'Y Includes a 3 lever control arm arse'y for adjusting various functions of the cabin ventilation back in the day. I cannot verify if it 'ran when parked'. I did NOT verify if the fan control knob changed positions. I also DID NOT use pliers or vise-grips to check if it worked. There are NO KNOBS or any type of BEZEL included with this. The pictures below show what is included. Please note: These parts have been sitting in my covered patio, but not climate controlled patio for SEVERAL YEARS. I CANNOT guarantee if ANYTHING works. Some cables were seized, however, they were removed to simplfy the shipping process, but they are in the box. Also included are the 4 cable clamps, if I counted correctly. I have already boxed the item up. I had to add layers of cardboard so the levers would not try to do any site-seeing on their travels. I apologize up front about the picture quality (and the dirty kitchen floor), I'm not a professional photographer, professional cleaner, or a shady used car salesman... All I ask from you is you to pay USPS Flat rate shipping for (what I believe is) a MEDIUM box, current rate in the CONUS is $13 and some change. If, after reviewing the pictures, you want this item. please reply to this post and then send me a PM. It's just that simple. Thank you for helping me de-junk parts that may be valuable to you, but have less value than $0.02 to the scrap man... EDIT: I HAVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE THIS OFFER BASED ON JOIN DATE, POST COUNT OR REPUTATION...

The yellow wire only gets power when the key is turned to Start. No power there when the key is on. No offense, but you need to go through the sequence of how things work. It will help your troubleshooting efforts. Sounds like the points might have been closed when the key was on, or the points distributor is wired incorrectly with constant power, and the engine stopped with the points closed. Looks like you overheated the coil. Voltage is not measured across + and - , it's measured from + to ground, and - to ground. You're making progress. Good luck.

I have dealer experience from back in the day with my 73 240Z. Bought in July 1973 in SLC, UT. It was fine that summer. Over the winter I drove a bunch to both Denver and Albuquerque multiple times. Seems like the next summer is when I had my first vapor lock, more like a loss of power, like 25 to 30 percent, very noticeable but it still ran. I could always start it after being parked, but it would take some cranking. Took it in multiple times. They put on the fuel rail insulation, that didn't really help. They added the electric fuel pump, helped a little. On hot days on the way home from work I'd pop the hood latch like mentioned before. It would help some, always got me home. They fiddled with the flat tops a bunch, but never hinted that the carbs sould be swapped for round tops. It was pretty much like that the rest of the ~20 years I drove it. Other than the really hot days in July and August the flat tops were fine for over 100,000 miles. Wilkes

Jayhawk, My first 240Z I bought when I was in college. It was a '72 with a build date of 12/71. At some point, one of the prior owners installed an L26 engine with flat tops. It was actually a pretty quick car, but it had some vapor lock issues during the summer months. I had the car for about 3 years before I sold it. The other 240Zs that I've owned since then all had round tops and I only experienced a couple of summer vapor locking incidents. My past personal experience plus all the discussion in the Z community and on this website ( member since 2004) has led me to believe that flat tops are inferior to the round tops.

And for anyone getting ready to print out a big copy of revision "M" to hang on their garage wall.... Don't do that right now. There have been some recently discovered issues in Rev "M" and I believe there will be a Revision "N" coming out soon to fix those issues. So if you can hold off for a little bit, do so!

I think the bigger question might be "how low is lowered?" One inch is really not much. Not even sure it counts. I just recalled that the instructions that come with the KYB struts might say something about lowered cars. I think that that might be where the internet recommendations come from. I have them on my ~ one inch lowered car and have no issues, never even bottomed them out. Type of driving and road quality would matter also. I just found a blurb on the Koni site, from less than a week ago about Koni re-introducing a 240Z strut. Spooky. Looks like Motorsport Auto is involved. Surprised they haven't posted something on the site. They don't seem to be available yet, on their web site. Might be worth a call. http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/ Here's another blurb with a phone number at the end. http://www.koni-na.com/getattachment/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/37102_KONI_Datsun_Z_Motorsport_PressRelease.pdf.aspx/?lang=en-US

VIN: S30-67902 '72 as of this posting: Undergoing restoration in Seattle, WA (USA)

While Motorman7 is restoring my '73 240Z, (thread titled: We're bringing back the flat tops!) I've started digitizing the slides I took of the car I've kept since I bought it new in 1973. I came across the pictures I took of a "fun run" in 1974 sponsored by Jack Gubrud, the owner of Gubrud's Valley Datsun in Mt. Vernon, Washingon. That was where I bought my car in April, 1973 after returning from a 10+ month deployment to Vietnam aboard the aircraft carrier Kitty Hawk. This was on Sunday, August 4th, 1974 from Mt. Vernon WA (north of Seattle) over the North Cascade Highway through the Cascade mountains to the town of Winthrop, WA. I believe almost all of the Zs in these photos were purchased at Gubrud's Valley Datsun. Lots of S30s! As I recall, Jack Gubrud paid for a BBQ picnic lunch for everyone. And we had a presentation by a Datsun engineer about the new Hitachi carbs. Wish I had paid more attention!