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I should ship my ///MZ down there and put it up on the block, might end up with enough to build two Zs

$67,100 USD = 1bazillion $CAD ?

Restomods of all types are very popular with the Barrett Jackson crowd. I was there yesterday and could only find the white car. The others might have been moved offsite already but then again that place is huge so they could have been somewhere I missed. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

And locktite because having them loosen would make for a very interesting day......

Yes, a Lot of Money! The other 2 cars weren't chopped liver with the '71 240Z (with the incorrect Z wheel covers) going for $55,000.00 and the '73 240Z going for $40,700.00, both with the buyer commissions included. As Charles mentioned earlier, in the past, the more original 240Zs have sold for the higher prices, but the quality-built resto-mods seem to be the trend right now.

There is a lot to setting up triple webers. In a nutshell: 1. Engine is in good order (valves, ignition, timing, plugs, wires, manifold sealing, etc). 2. Linkage is non-binding and has exactly the same start, stop, and throw distances on all 3 carbs. 3. The carbs are in good order. 4. The jets, chokes, fuel levels, series number, etc are the same on all carbs AND you are in the ball park for jet and choke sizes for your engine/application 5. You have the tools and knowledge to tune triple webers: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html Get one of these for sure: or

More research: There is a #3 form a gasket: US Part Number: 80017 Canada Part Number: 80017 Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid (The good old molasses) Two more non-hardening: Permatex® Super “300” Form-A-Gasket® Sealant Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant (similar to Hylomar)

I think most sealants will work fine. I always ensured the mating surfaces were clean and used the brown aviation sealant with no problems. I would not use any sealant on an engine where a solid blob can be hidden then come loose and clog a passage. Permatex make two nice gasket making sealants: Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant (hard setting) Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant (non-setting)<<< use this one if the aviation sealant molasses is not enough. The transmission plugs and switches are difficult to remove. The tapered threads do not seem to work loose and hold nearly too well. Some propane helps with that. To minimize this in the future. I use antiseize when reattaching with no probems. If I were racing, a blue thread locker and paint marker to identify rotation would be the way to go if safety wires were not available.

And as I noted in my thread, the stock 280Z bars do NOT fit in an opposite installation. They are front of diff mount only as they are too long and overreach the rear control arm. Aftermarket antisways are the only rear of diff mounted option. Sigh

Tighten until they break then back off a quarter turn. No seriously, those are M10x1.25 grade 9, so 33-44 ft-lb would be lovely. I found the right diagram and specs in the 78 FSM, RA-3. Rear axle and suspension, page 3

I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described.

Pictures will help you here or a link to the sale ad.

I did some searching on this a while back. I have a sway bar thread. I settled on the ST sway bars. I think they are the cleanest mounting system with good reviews.

This just popped in my email.... https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/RND0WJHgZPTT5qevkv7ocnDqq I know Mark @wheee! is looking for some door cards.... Has an interesting front wheel...

Futofab has a nice set, the rear swaybar is rear mounted behind the Diff. https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=category&amp;layout=blog&amp;id=28&amp;Itemid=86

My JDM - 1972 Fairlady Z: L20A engine, E30 head, 38mm carbs HJG38

You're very welcome. Glad I could help.

Now it has 4 wheels, three carbs and two seats, so i guess it's a 432 now? ??

I have a friend going to look at it Monday. If it is decent, we will pick it up if the price is still reasonable and part it out between our two builds and sell the remainder to others interested in parts. Hate to see this get crushed and there is really no chance of it being restored with out a chop job....

I don't really know. When Walter's car went through Copart a year or so ago it went to like $4k but it was a 240 and not nearly as badly hit. I would be surprised if it brought 10% of the advertised ACV because it's a 280z. Usually cars tend to bring about 30% of a reasonable fair market value. If you said the car was worth 8k that would be what, like $2,400. The car is a total loss and not getting repaired like many of these cars do. So that makes it a parts car; so I think $2400 is way too high. I will watch it. I would think being in Canada should make it cheaper too, less competition. WAG would be $1,000 or so. It's not "pure sale" so the seller might have unreasonable expectations. If you end up being the high bidder there is nothing wrong with not negotiating on their counter offers and sticking with your initial bid. I have done this many times on the same car. Eventually they figure out it's not going to bring what they want. Keep in mind the additional fees for the total price!

Oh wonderful. No time or space to get it. Just a lousy 77 anyway.. hehehehehehe

Yes, it could have an automatic. It looks like it has been painted. It once had A/C but the compressor is missing? Well, no A/C then... It doesn't appear to have a roll bar in it. If he has a 'factory' roll bar, really, it would be fairly rare. But do your homework about a 'factory' roll bar. They were quite unique. Those aren't 'factory' wheels. Yea, could use pictures of the engine bay and confirmation of the engine #.

Charles and Cody that looks great. I saturate my fresh blasted aluminum with satin clear from Eastwood. I'm always happy with the results, no greasy hand prints after installing. Takes about three soakings with my hvlp gun to get to the soaked level. Won't take no more.

Before my Grandaddy would give me a whipping he always gave me a last chance to do what he said with one word, "Y'ain't??? That word got a lot of toys picked up.

Is this some "high country" S.C. lingo??? "I'm a fixin" to add it to my linguistic skill set.

You guys are right, I went back to have a look and the bottom of the plunger will fit through but my 40 year old seal is so hard that it stops dead. A new seal with some lube is probably how they got it up there.

I've read their website claims now. It does sound impressive and better than the Vintage Air stuff I've installed. Would like to know the cooling capacity so you can propertly compare with Vintage air's. In this case, size does matter.