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I'm just hoping to be able to stick around to celebrate my own 50 year anniversary in a couple of years.

On a 71 240 Z I have, the piece that holds the sun visors in place that mounts beneath the rear view mirror, broke on the drivers side. It was pretty annoying having the visor flop around, and I finally took the visor off until I could locate a replacement part. Searched all over the place for another, no luck. Finally saw one on Etsy from a person who has a 3D printer named PlasticWiz, figured I'd give it a try. Removed my old one, which basically disintegrated while trying to pop it loose from the vinyl covered roof frame. Sanded the new ABS piece a bit and painted black. I suppose the "print lines" could be removed completely with a lot of work, but for this car I just wanted a functional piece. Here it is mounted ready to pop in the rear view mirror. I've never used a 3D printed part on any of my cars, but I must say this really did the trick for a difficult part to find. Anyway, just thought I'd post this since I couldn't find any recent help on this part. I may order another for my other Z just in case...

Hi , I have neither used nor confirmed color of this can but most of L - series engine builders say this is the color , and still available from a local Nissan today . I just bought one for my curiosity. The label said “ genuine “ “ UD touch up paint “ ” Nissan Engine blue “ ” No 10128-90026” I googled little bit, UD is a company for trucks, Volvo is a parent company. Nissan diesel Ltd was merged into Volvo in 2007 . Hope this helps . Kats

My guess is it's in the American west... I used to do the off-road stuff in my 73 240Z. At about 40MPH on washboard dirt road it was kind of like being on ice, felt like you were floating. Once we drove the 73 into a fishing hole on Flaming Gorge reservoir and there were a couple of guys in a 4 wheel drive truck that couldn't believe we got there in the 240Z. On the way out we hit a rock and separated the exhaust pipe from the headers, man was that loud getting back to Manila, UT where we were able to put it back together at a gas station (back in the day when gas stations had lifts and would let you use them). Here in Google Earth 41°02'03.20" N 109°33'38.20" W

HLS30-00007 in 1969. Still and two videos HLS30-00007_Red_Commercial.mp4 HLS30-00007.mp4

Excellent write up. Thank you for taking the time to create it. Comments from my experience with EZ clip. i love the hose and fittings as they are all DIY. The hose is much smaller than the standard black hose and does much tighter radiuses-es-es... radii? Stay away from the SS braided hose that Vintage Air has unless the look of it is a requirement for your build. Pricey and very technique sensitive to get good seals. Second, do not buy EZ clip stuff from Vintage air. $$$. You can find them at AC businesses such as new-line.com much cheaper. Many major centers have New-Line retail outlets. Third, the EZClip lock ring plier tool is also much cheaper from ebay/amazon or new-line. Get one, don't try to do it with regular pliers. It also allows you to UNDO the clips.

Evidently this is difficult to source in the US. We would have to get it directly out of Japan. I did some looking and even some of the sources available from other countries are being drop shipped out of Japan.

I will use the snow for packing material. Should keep things nice and safe en route!

interesting troubleshooting that the seller mentions....... pulling the engine and rebuilding the head as a fix for the engine not starting. Dennis

Here is a 1965 drawing from Mr. Matsuo

For anyone who has looked at or bought the Recaro LX seats from ebay seller michikogoodproduct, this information about removing the headrests could come in handy: https://passionford.com/forum/ford-escort-rs-turbo/237664-remove-headrest-from-recaro-seats.html My order took the slow boat from Thailand to save shipping costs -- about 2 1/2 months -- but they arrived today and my first impression is very good. These are used Recaros that have been re-covered. Love the factory retro look -- the material and workmanship seem good quality. Still need the Wedge brackets to complete the install, but I'm freshly motivated! https://www.ebay.com/sch/michikogoodproduct/m.html?item=162904595739&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 https://www.mckrecaroseatscars.com/

That might be what the current seller tells people. I think that we're just trying to figure out what's going on. If the current seller bought it from the 249,000 mile guy then he must know it was advertised as 249,000 miles. So how do you go from 249,000 down to 49,000? At the least he should use the old rule of looking at whether the numbers are on the same line. If they're not it's turned. going from 249 to 149 seems reasonable, but down to 49 looks odd. Not saying he is a scammer, just saying he looks like he might be one. Nothing wrong with going in with eyes open. Somebody should do him a favor and tell him his ads show inconsistency with past history. He should explain that. Provenance and history are a big deal on these old cars, aren't they? If it was just the little space oneBay where you type the odometer reading in that's one thing but he called out and proclaimed in a specially written sentence that it was low mileage. No question. And said it's been garage kept "All It's Life". And on top of it, he screwed up the grammar...its.

Banzai Motorworks has the right paint in stock.

I kind of feel like I'm harassing you but I'll give another shot. Break your problem down in to what is supposed to happen and compare it to what really happens. And try some of the things that people suggest. At this point, you should have tried pinching the hose. This would have confirmed that the hose routing is correct. You should also have connected the AAR to the plug and confirmed that it was closing when the engine was running. Your last post suggests that it is not closing, or that the hoses are incorrectly routed. Pinch the hose after the engine gets up to speed. If idle speed drops the hoses are correct, if they don't then they're not. If idle speed drops then disconnect the hoses and take the AAR, or take your spare AAR, and connect it to the power plug, in a position that you can see the blade. Confirm that the AAR closes when the engine is running. If it doesn't than make sure the plug has power with the engine running. Good luck. Write things out in the sequence that they are supposed to happen and things will become clear. You've covered the basics but just haven't put them in order.

I have some to spare...

I was asked to regenerate the parts list order/s required for the install of the vintage air mini gen II. Below is the information for the mock-up box that vintage air loans out to help customers understand the size of the package that has to be installed inside the car. It helps you understand where to put the evaporator and hose connections. I cotacted vintage air and this was the info that they gave me. I decided that in my case it would not be necessary to actually mock-up the install. I was confident that I could get everything to fit based on other installs that I had read about. I would add that vintage air was responsive and helpful. “The shipping box measures 26 x 20 x 20. The evaporator assembly measures 11" high by 11.5" wide x 8.5" deep and will sit up against the firewall and a small portion of the bottom of the unit will sit down below the bottom of the dash. You would see about 2" to 3" of the bottom of the case. The switch kit we have for this system is separate from the original and can be placed under the steering wheel or in the console out of site. You can go to our web site at autoacsolutions.com and to to instructions for more on installation of the system. Click onto our indash a/c instructions. If we can be of more assistance let me know. I will be working messages off and on through the weekend and will try to answer as soon as possible.” The only disappointment that I had with Vintage air was that they could make it a great deal easier to order a complete system. I would suggest that they spend some time reading some of the different popular forums searching for reasonably good installs and create a parts list for some of the popular classic installs. Obviously, it would be nice to place a single perfect order that contains everything you would need. I have been able to do this a couple of times. Sadly, this was not one of those times. Below is the first order that I placed. The error of my ways is immediately apparent: I did not use the Horizontal slide panel. I did use the York to sanden conversion bracket – but I have heard that there are better solutions out there. I used vintage air’s ez-clip kit. I also purchased their plier which I think is well worth the expense. It was easy to use. It allowed me to create the customized hose routing that I wanted. I am still in the throws of restoring my car so I do not have any experience with the quality of this connection system, but I have high hopes that it will not leak. I liked the idea of using the bulkhead connectors and so I bought two. One for the AC hoses and one for the heater hoses. If I had to do it again, I might separate the hoses a bit more; just to make it easier to connect the hoses. The bottom line is don’t get ahead of yourself. Order what you need. As best I could tell there is no discount for larger orders with the exception of shipping cost. 66005-VUZ-A MINI GEN II W/DEF EA 1.00 0.00 470.00 470.00 main unit (heater/def/AC) inside car 49110-SHQ HORIZ SLIDE PANEL (MACHINED) EA 1.00 0.00 75.00 75.00 slide controls 63375-VUE DEFROSTER DUCTS (SET) EA 1.00 0.00 19.95 19.95 04808-VUQ SD-508 POL COMP O-RING 134a EA 1.00 0.00 249.00 249.00 compressor 15815-VUB YORK TO SANDEN CONVERSION KIT EA 1.00 0.00 60.00 60.00 conversion bracket to mount compressor 547002 HOSE KIT,E-Z CLIP UNIVERSAL EA 1.00 0.00 360.00 360.00 clip kit (hoses+connectors) 420000-VUR EZ CLIP PLIERS EA 1.00 0.00 78.00 78.00 tool to install ez-clips 07323-VUC DRIER W/TRINARY SWITCH EA 1.00 0.00 59.00 59.00 drier 389602 STRM 2 WAY INLINE BKHD #6-#10 BLK EA 1.00 0.00 44.00 44.00 bulkhead connector /bracket (AC) 389803 STRM 2 WAY INLINE BKHD #10-#10 BLK EA 1.00 0.00 44.00 44.00 bulkhead connector / bracket (water inlet/egress for heater) 03263-VUC PARALLEL FLOW COND 14 X 24 W/BRKTS EA 1.00 0.00 149.00 149.00 condenser (to cool air before drier and return to evap) My second order was just foolish. Do not order hose connectors until you really understand your hose routing. In my opinion this is not possible until everything else is installed. With regards to the connections inside the car. My install works but, it would have been a lot easier for me if I had realized how little room there is in the cockpit. If you understand how difficult it is to make bends with these hoses and how much room you need to actually tighten the connectors then placement of the bulkhead connectors can be improved. This influences the selection of connector style (90 deg., 45 deg. straight, etc) I ordered a number of incorrect connectors. 347160-VUR EZ CLIP #6 STRAIGHT EA 4.00 0.00 17.00 68.00 AC and water connectors 347100-VUR EZ CLIP #10 STRAIGHT EA 1.00 0.00 19.10 19.10 347200-VUR EZ CLIP #10 45 DEGREE EA 1.00 0.00 24.50 24.50 347180-VUR EZ CLIP #8 STRAIGHT EA 4.00 0.00 16.00 64.00 347380-VUR EZ CLIP #8 90 DEGREE EA 2.00 0.00 18.25 36.50 318000-VUR EZ CLIP AC HOSE #10 PER FOOT FT 8.00 0.00 5.75 46.00 347962-VUR EZ CLIP #6 CLIP EA 8.00 0.00 0.60 4.80 347960-VUR CLIP #6 CAGE EA 4.00 0.00 1.05 4.20 347902-VUR EZ CLIP #10 CLIP EA 4.00 0.00 0.65 2.60 347900-VUR CLIP #10 CAGE EA 2.00 0.00 1.40 2.80 347982-VUR EZ CLIP #8 CLIP EA 12.00 0.00 0.60 7.20 347980-VUR CLIP #8 CAGE EA 6.00 0.00 1.15 6.90 Third order: 347260-VUR EZ CLIP #6 45 DEGREE EA 1.00 0.00 20.00 20.00 more AC /water connectors and clips 347300-VUR EZ CLIP #10 90 DEGREE EA 2.00 0.00 19.75 39.50 347900-VUR CLIP #10 CAGE EA 2.00 0.00 1.40 2.80 347902-VUR EZ CLIP #10 CLIP EA 8.00 0.00 0.65 5.20 347960-VUR CLIP #6 CAGE EA 1.00 0.00 1.05 1.05 347962-VUR EZ CLIP #6 CLIP EA 2.00 0.00 0.60 1.20 121018 HARDLINE 90 HEATER FITTING EA 2.00 0.00 7.00 14.00 121004 HARDLINE STR HEATER FITTING EA 2.00 0.00 7.00 14.00 The final order that I placed was for controls so that I could use the original 240z climate control panel. 11458-VUS SWITCH 3 SPEED BLOWER ROTARY EA 1.00 0.00 11.25 11.25 knobs I needed to use orig. 240z control panel 49457-VUI KNOB CONTROL (ROTARY) EA 1.00 0.00 1.50 1.50 20558-VUP LABEL BLOWER SWITCH EA 1.00 0.00 3.00 3.00 I know some of you will be interested in the total cost of the install. I made a few mistakes that were somewhat costly. And the total cost of these orders also includes the EZ-clip system and plier and extra parts. So, if you add all of the figures the total is approximately $2154. I would estimate that there is approximately $300 worth of material that I did not need or use (panel, bracket, hose connectors ..etc) There is a $75 plier. I did not calculate the additional charge for the ez-clip system. The reason I bring this up is to be fair to vintage air regarding cost. If you compare the price of their system to another vendor make sure that you are comparing equivalent systems. Given the additional information/experience that I have at this point I would make the same choice and go with Vintage Air. I hope this helps and if you have a question, I will try to answer it.

So if someone wanted a set of the rally wheels for show (mostly), who should they contact? Are these in production yet? I have been looking for along time. Would like a set of Portuguese mags, but even those I can’t find. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places? I hear these wheels trade for the prices listed in this thread, but from what I have seen they are not available for any price. It’s discouraging that they are so unobtainable when there is apparently a market. Thanks for the great post! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I haven’t seen anything that says otherwise. 100% positive rating on ebay seems to support that as well. They’ve sold enough seats that someone would have busted them by now if they were fake. When you look at what mediocre aftermarket seats can cost, these are worth it even if they’re phony.

I'm sure @Carl Beck would agree ?

I found an interesting thing , the earliest seat sliding control lever looked like this , the “ S “ curve is located here , it is pretty forward than the later one . I think this early lever might be seen in up to Jan or Feb 1970 . How about yours ? And I confirmed the holes for the plastic guards , the holes are set both sides of the frame . So workers at the factory did not have to pay attention which is left seat or right seat . ( the seat in the pictures is 01/70 Z432, not original bands and not original color for the lever and the frame ) Kats

The dirty one is the 15 X 7 "sport" Panasport version I purchased in 2001 and had powder-coated last year. The others are much older and are Panasport "race" wheels that got the same treatment. This is what they looked like on the 006 car.

Who would have known? In addition to being a capable sports car, it's an off-road vehicle, too! Dennis

In other news... Inspiration: Progress: Finished: Now I need to refinish my center caps.

Kats, I have obtained a sample of a light blue/green cloth. Do you still have the original cloth on your seat bottoms to confirm the color match? (If so, I would mail you a small sample for verification purposes.) Keith

@Av8ferg @Captain Obvious Sent you guys both PMs! Updating the listing currently! Thanks again ? -Chris

...and they have a warranty.

The Z advert from 'Parker University Datsun' in Hamilton caught my eye. I've been living in nearby Burlington for the past 10 years and had never heard of this dealership, despite its location near the McMaster University campus (which I visit frequently on business). A quick check using Google Map shows that the site is now occupied by a Hebrew Memorial Chapel. It looks like it was a terrible location for a dealership -- well off the nearest main thoroughfare and well outside of the Hamilton city core. Probably one of those small entrepreneurial retailer operations that tended to pick up franchises from the likes of Fiat, Volvo, and BL back in the day. There's no such thing as a 'University Nissan' or 'Parker Nissan' in the Hamilton area these days, so I would guess that they got axed by Nissan Canada corporate in the 1980's when 'Datsun' transitioned to 'Nissan' and went up-market (or tried to). Even the Harvey's fast-food franchise is gone. For non-Canadians, Harvey's make the world's best, greasiest onion rings (along with a nuclear hamburger and a tasty-but-highly-synthetic milkshake).

I agreed . Also they are so clean and beautiful, I may think they could be reproduction wheels which currently bacame available in Japan . Today I visited a vendor of a reproduction wheel . They are selling Z432 style wheel and rally style wheel .Both are aluminum. The manufacturer is located in China , not Japan . I noticed the Z432 style wheel has a different off set , more positive off set than the original. So looked different to my eyes . Kats

That's just it. As good as the OP's at least and reasonable price, otherwise I will go and have custom door cards made and rebuild the backings where the speakers had been cut in.

@wheee! @wal280z Below are the pictures from measuring the door panels tonight. First is off my 75 280z, the second is of the door cards. @wal280z Thank you again for stepping in. It is clear that these are 77/78 door cards. I apologize for the mislabeling. I was under the impression that these were direct swaps for the 75. That is on me for not measuring the distance and being aware of that difference. I've updated the listing. Thank you again for the insight! -Chris

@zclocks Ron, I found the pump tonight. Below is a picture of it. I never tested the pump so I cannot vouch for its functionality. But if you are willing to cover shipping I am more than happy to send it out to you if it will help your project. Let me know! -Chris

If the molds come out OK I will consider selling pieces. It will be a commitment, because it will have to be the whole front, console, and foot boards. Floor boards can be all carpet, but will have to be custom made also. Fuse box is getting relocated to the firewall behind foot board. I'm going to wrap everything in leather, but you could paint them body color also.