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Unless the project car has some other important provenance, I say go for it! Make it whatever you want and enjoy yourself! Have fun and document the process for all us armchair commentators!

For the last couple of years, I've been playing around with action cameras. Most of the ones I have purchased can double as a dash cam, though without some of the extra features. For instance, you can have it record with a time and date stamp and loop record in 3 or 5 minute intervals. Most of the "4K" action cameras can accept a 64GB mini SD card. You can choose settings to turn on/off when plugged/unplugged into external power, and many have a setting to start recording on a shock sensor. A lot of them have stabilization settings to reduce the effects of vibration. Most of these cameras have wifi connectivity so you can connect it to your smart phone...Oh, never mind, @Captain Obvious? I have two of these and use one as a dash cam in my daily driver: https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-DB0923-Underwater-Rechargeable-Accessories/dp/B07314N12V. For that price, you could get two and have cameras front & rear. You would also probably want a windshield mount like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW9UBDM to attach it to your windshield

I finally got the correct fuel fitting from japan to finish my old school looking fuel rail. I love how it turned out! I had to have it re - zinc’d since the Mikuni and my plater color didn’t match.

We bought this car a while back from a gentleman who restored these cars. We purchased it with intentions of putting it back to it's original stock condition. The engine is stamped with N42 82088, and was told it was original to the car, I believe it is. I don't think any work has been done on the engine, it seems 100% stock. It was very clean when it came out of car, but it looks like the guy we bought it from probably painted block, and a few other engine parts. The car has 115,443 miles on it, and speedometer matches the title mileage, which shows as actual. We had on like this in the past, which had a small block Chevy Corvette motor. The motor is very clean, and ran excellent, before the person we bought it from took the car apart. I personally have not heard the engine run, but as clean as it is inside, and it does turn over fine with use of breaker bar, and socket. The trans is all there as well. Some interior parts will need attention. Dash pad cover, and seat will need recovering, but frame, foam all in good shape. The floors, door, hood, trunk, fenders are all solid. I really wanted to do this one right, and even has some original paperwork. The vin plate he had removed when doing some of the work, which I have, and it does match the Id number on body. I have boxes of stuff that goes with it, including the original radiator,plus a brand new aluminum radiator he had purchase. The fender extensions, lights, brackets are all there, including the original jack, spare and other things.

I'm in JAX. I saw this ad yesterday, I was thinking if the post is close to accurate, that may be a good deal.

Picture #19 looks like a fiberglass repair patch over something. Good looking car. But, Gulf Coast humidity and salt in the air can do some damage over time. I lived in Ocean Springs, MS for a while and the Z caught rust quite easily. Dennis

Not bad at all. Has a trailer hitch and AC too. $7500. Is there really a Spanish fort there?

Whichever distributor you choose make sure to check the breaker plate bearings for rust and gunk. They're almost always stuck after sitting for years. If you try to use them they might break the bearing cage. The ZX distributors, the one in your left hand with the module on the side, tend to break the stator magnet also. And they have weak bushings. I've seen replacement bushings out there somewhere. You can run a separate ignition module, like an MSD, using the points distributor.

0:34, In your right hand you have an early 70's points dizzy, if you have your hart set on using it there are electronic conversion kits, occasionally you can find them on ebay for $30+- In your left hand you got a 79 up electronic version, these are really good!, 2 wire hookup, one to the (+) of the coil, the other to the (-). The biggest challenge is to phase it correctly, if you are to install the late dizzy into a early mounting tower you will find that there is no way to set up your timing properly, there are 2 solutions: 1. find a 79 and up mount (can be from a 4 cyl as well). 2. use a dremel to elongate the slots on the mounting plate. As always, before installation apply vacuum to the advance pot, make sure it doesn't leak and check the shaft bushings for wear, grab the shaft and try to move it sideways, if there is any play you will get erratic timing.

They make gasket punches. I think I bought a cheap set of them at HF. They are round punches with a sharpened leading edge and a slot on the side for the disc to come out. I would think that would get you pretty close. If you know the diameter you need I could try to find mine and see if one of them corresponds in size

Like the commenters on your YouTube channel said, the first dizzy is probably a points dizzy. Look under the cap for a set of points. The second is an electronic dizzy with the matchbox on the side. They came in 4 and 6 cylinder models. So look under the cap and make sure there are 6 trigger points and the interior is intact. They make a much better ignition in my opinion. Hotter spark and no points to mess with, but the matchboxes can fail. It is always good insurance to source another one and throw it in the glove box if it leaves you stranded.

Enjoying the video series. Great reference source as I go through my own rebuild with my son. Keep it up mate...are the roos still in the paddock out the back?

Latest Update: New caliper (front) installed. rear wheel brake cylinders (early style) were replaced. problem carb was disassembled (not easy considering 30+ years of varnish) - improper idle circuit was corrected. new battery installed. electrics tested (no issues!) engine started (note acorn bazooka out back in the Google Drive library of photos and videos) Fuel lines plugged - (car was run for ~2-3s by adding fuel to float bowl) Tank dropped and cleaned (new fuel lines ordered) Exhaust from cat-back is badly rusted and crumbling (to be rebuilt) Areas of concern: valve springs (once running, keep it gentle at moderate rpm to break everything back in - some of those springs have been compressed for over 30yrs) cyl bore rust & blow-by (if springs compressed = valves open...) Question for forum: The chassis / underside is coated in surface rust - should this be cleaned up and powder-coated (non-original for preservation) - or should this be left alone (original)? Thanks! & happy viewing

If I have to pay more to get my antique car bumpers chromed in exchange for my kids having cleaner water to drink, I guess I'll take that tradeoff.

Hi Kats, I think the air box, the much maligned HMB46 carbs and the different intake manifold (N42) added a good bit to the extra bhp of the European 260Z, and not just down to extra cc's over the 240Z's L24.

Dang! That transmission slid on easily for first time. Good work!

@Randalla I used the circular anti-corrosion felts for battery terminals. They came pre-punched for the terminals to pass through. They came several to a package and although they were Christmas-y, (red and green), they worked well for me. I slathered them in Lubriplate bearing grease, working it into the felt and then re-assembled. Four years later the refurbished wipers work as new.

Not to get politica,l but you can thank the US Government and the EPA for the cost of re chroming. They put so many regulation on the shops that small companies couldn't afford it and went out of business, leaving only large shops in the market. With little competition and massive regulations, we get stuck with astronomical cost.

Greatly appreciate the comments. I have located a LOCAL source that will match paint color and put it in a spray can for me. So I'm working on that now, before the engine is re-installed. Lot of parts yet to be re-installed on the engine.

As a former pilot I'm partial to CAD plating. I have a FAA certified CAD plater nearby so he does all my work. I just love the look of gold CAD and so does my engineer son who wants it on the 240Z.

I prefer the corrosion resistance of CAD plating so will do all my 240Z pieces that way. Hubs, brakes, suspension, driveshafts will all get it as well as the heap of other bits that seem to pile up once unbolted from the car. Underside of the car is getting full epoxy treatment over the bare metal to keep the tin cancer at bay!

Everything in the first two pics will be yellow zinc - not cad. The second two pics will get clear zinc. What... you don't have enough bits already??? I'm experimenting with rebuilding the sidemarker electrical fittings so no final verdict yet. The nylon items sometimes come back with a white crust that can be scraped clean - there's really no option with parts that are mfg. this way.

What media do you use in the tumbler to clean them. I put mine through the ultrasonic. Anything rusty gets soaked in evaporust and ultrasonically cleaned for an hour or until rust free. I then hit them with the wire brush. Did my Astons and Lotus bits the same way before cad plating.

Hi Sara, Just want to thank you for helping me get my Z-Legs when I first started here. That's about 3 1/2 years ago now. My sweet RedBird is wonderful to me. She is staying roadworthy, and a big blessing. Redwing, my old 1971 was sold, and is now down to bare metal, heading for a full restore. I am so happy for her. Anyhow, I do appreciate your kindness and all you did for me. I won't forget you, in fact I hope someday to meet you and your partner. Keep in touch...sending love and blessings.

If your car is this early, you probably have the early style hinges. You need to post up a picture. They were very different

One of many great pix in Brent Martin’s IMSA album posted on facebook - https://tinyurl.com/ybaplbsh

So I almost lost the Z this afternoon. I probably would not have been hurt, at least not seriously, but the car would have suffered significantly. With that in mind, does anyone have a recommendation for a dashcam that they like?