Leaderboard

Yep, only Japanese car too. There was a tricked out BMW with a roll cage and a door number, they were doing autocross racing in Birmingham. My Dad said they left out in stages, maybe 50 to a 100 at a time? It lasted from 9am until at least 3pm through my area. They were very nice to me in my little Datsun, a lot of thumbs up and smiles. Car people through and through. ?

I guess you could do this if you want to stay in your comfort zone...

Its good to be unique, its good to be special! Thanks for representing the brand.

Update: After visiting the local police department and having them tell me they can't sign off on exhaust - I'd need to go see the CHP, I did just that. CHP officer gave me a little bit of a hard time about my header, little filter on my breather, etc., but he recognized that my '72 is pre-smog and let it go at that. Then, he asked me to start 'er up. After listening to the idle for a couple of seconds, he asked me to rev it a few times. My silencer did the job and he said "Sounds like it should be fine". He signed off on all three of my issues (brake light, front plate, loud exhause) and I was on my way. Whew! I'll try to get around to posting a before/after silencer video soon.

I have several low end guns and one medium gun, plus one high end'ish gun. The low end guns do good work for primer and epoxy, the medium gun does flow better and create a nicer "football" shape. The higher end gun I use for the spraying of the colour coat and clear coat. It has a better atomizer tip that sprays a finer swirl of air and paint, resulting in fewer drips or runs. I paid $400 Cdn for the higher end gun and also use the 3M PPS system with collapsing cups for paint. I also use water based paints for the colour coat.

Peanut 1 reporting for duty!

Absolutely it's worth saving, I agree with the others, if you have it done by someone else it could get expensive but if you are willing to get filthy dirty you can learn to do it yourself and save lots of money, in the end you will have a solid car that you saved and I can tell you that first drive after putting it back on the road is a pretty wonderful feeling. Have a look through the archives, there are dozens of threads where someone just like yourself repaired extensive rust and brought their Z back to life, the peanut gallery here on this forum will talk you through the whole procedure.

keep in mind that "I just wish I could do the work myself" was the first step for all of us. If you have the space and time, go for it. Many of the Zs here have been rescued from becoming a parts car, most by owners who started off not knowing how to do the work and learning as the job progressed. Take it one step at a time and ask questions. You can do it.

Hahaha I'll never do that! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I jumped in and rode with this rolling car show for an hour south then turned around and came back home. A whole bunch of American Hot Rods, and me. There was a BMW in the mix too. 6,000 cars from all up and down the East Coast. People were all over the sides of the road waving and taking pictures. It was pretty cool. http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/

GOTHAM 22 I like others have seen much worse. As a matter of fact if you look through the archives on this site several members have replaced everything forward of the bulkhead with great success. But these jobs (projects) were done by the owner of the vehicle in most cases. Don't get discouraged or daunted by your issue. Someone will do this for you but you should plan on the repair shop having the car for 90 days minimum and thats on the low end. But it would give you time to save up the $$$$$. Your car is increasing in value everyday and if you should decide to sell it you get your money back plus a decent profit if you can show a potential buyer what a good platform they have. I am currently putting #6333 back together and I did work in the same areas you have issues in although not quite as bad. I am doing my own cutting fitting and welding. It can be done but it is not a quick process. The comment about "RUST BEING LIKE ROACHES".....right on! If you do decide to have the work done I would suggest stripping all the undercoat off the bottom of the car to inspect the condition of the entire bottom. No point fixing it without fixing all of it. Chin up, Good Luck!

I agree. I have done a lot of painting but have never used high end guns. There has to be a reason shops pay $400 for a primer gun. I was trying to see if you could tell why. Smoother finish, more efficient material usage, less waste, lower air pressures? There has to be a reason. Once I know the reason I can then decide if that justifies spending the extra for the benefit...

Yes, my cruise has been pretty nice- 14.5-16ish depending on the setup. I'll put the .35 exhaust back in. I did notice a slight stumble with the .65 when driving around. I did put copper spray on the both sides of the gasket. But, I used an OEM gasket this time and MSA says that's a no-no with their headers. I could see two leaks when it was on the car ,but there were 6 I spotted once I had it all apart. So MSA gasket one should be here any day. That's what I had on there before and had zero issues.

I ran into power tour 2010 on Woodward .

You need to test it first. Make sure you get your eyes to bug out like the picture. There's an illustration of the filter change also. This is from 1976.

Thanks for the link! Part is on order. ?

That’s great! Were you the only Datsun you saw?

http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6146476

And forgot... I think dripping ABS solvent down into that crevice is a really risky move. I think that if it wasn't securely glued before you do that, it most certainly will be afterwards!

I appreciate the confidence! I'm new to the sheet metal game, im used to building for 37 or 40 inch tires and a v8 haha. I actually made some headway today. I cut the passenger side rust off the bulkhead and i can actually make this happen with about three pieces. I've bent a straight run for the middle section that maintains a width on top of about 1 5/8 inch. I don't have pics of that peice but I will tommorow. The two ends I'll have to get creative with a couple relief cuts and maybe a triangle or two to make things blend in. Overall I think ill be good to go. I do however need to make the two thin er parts that come along the end by the hood mounts. That will be the biggest challenge now. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Fill it with nitrous oxide and I'd live in there, polishing between giggles and the choo choo train. 8^)

The only better choice would be 47mm OER's. Enjoy your trip you and the Mrs.

You could get a welding tank full of Nitrogen and fill it with that, no humidity, no oxygen to react and age it. It would be in stasis, preserved for eons.

Very slick. But, being a child of the last century and not a programmer, I prefer using the $3.95 guts from a Sharp Quartz Analog battery powered clock from WalMart as the Z clock upgrade of choice. Dennis