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Hi, I wrote a message to HARADA Ltd customers relationship, about a request of the antenna mast replacement. I do not know they will reply , I am waiting hearing from them. Kats

I used the softer (removable) RTV. My wooden knobs and plastic shift maps would not have appreciated hot solder. I'm no vibrations trained ME, but my very small amount of experience in the field has led me to the approach of damping and changing the resonant frequency of the vibrations instead of trying to prevent them with rigid means. Thinking about it like an oscillator... if the driving source is a different frequency than the resonant frequency of the load, you don't get much energy transferred to that load. It just kinda ignores it. That's my theory on the knobs. You can't prevent the vibration. You just have to tune the knob to a frequency very different than the source. Picture me crouched in my laboratory tuning my knobs. Wait... Ok. Don't picture that.

plane is crossing the mountains, suddenly had engine trouble and is going down. the passengers, the boy scout the priest, the richest man in the world and the smartest man in the world realize there are only 3 parachutes the richest man proclaims "I am a rich important person that must live on", grabs a chute and jumps. the smartest man proclais " I must live on as I must have children so my intellect will be able to improve the human race" grabs a chute and jumps. the priest tells the boy, take the last chute and save yourself, I have lived a long and fulfilling life and I am ready to meet my maker" to which the boy replies, "its ok father, there are 2 chutes left, the smartest man in the world jumped out with my back pack" I know this is not the correct forum prob for jokes, but I think the point I learned is to not overthink a problem.

I know I feel like an idiot, BUT an idiot with a quiet transmission is better than a smart guy with a noisy one

Ok before I delete my prior novel length post and sure fire its not the knob post let me say, ITS THE KNOB!!!! I mean the one I got off ebay to brag about my 5 speed seems to fit perfect and tight, so Dave WM aka "mr know it all" proudly proclaims NOT MY issue. Of course I skulk out to the garage and reinstall the old 4 speed knob and bingo noise gone. Thanks again to the group.

Reading that paper makes me sick. It is filled with fluff, bs, and poor grammar/English. They are too dumb to even be successful crooks.

Grannyknot and CO had it figured out! Yes I just got back from a quick spin and it was the knob. I removed it like CO recommended while driving it and it went away. Just to be sure I continued driving w/o the knob and no noise. Wow, I've had the console out twice and added a new crack to it!

Thanks Kats. That would help out a lot of members.

Here is my spare mast, I do not know it is HARADA or AFM one. The tip is pointing, looks exactly the same as original mast. We have a short and a long mast , my orange 240Z 12/71 has a short one while my Fairlady 240ZG 06/72 has a long one. How about yours ? Please see the pictures, Kats

Just gabbing... The car looks very solid. The dinged up floor reinforcements, aka rails, look amazingly rust free. Even the little weep holes look like they might still have original paint on the edges.

Easy fix. You know those rolls of blue paper towels that you get from the local auto parts stores? Well I tore 1 into little strips, rolled those up and stuffed them through the threads up into the "void" and it worked. Quiet as a mouse. I couldn't believe how much of the paper towel it took!

Right.....look at the bottom of the tires

I think I paid less than $10 from a local parts supply, Temko was the brand name if I remember right. You get a free day today thanks to Grannyknot & Captain Obvious!

This is a members antenna that I am helping him to restore. I an now awaiting the rubber parts. JLP

Shhhhh.... keep him focused on making affordable dashes! I can wait for a glovebox longer than a dash...!

+1 You need a new mechanic.

I'm hot. (I'd be hotter if you would turn the wheel so the logo is right side up. )

I don't believe so. He is paying for a very nice interior that he will probably modify. He is paying for a paint job that he will probably have to redo once he adds the flairs, air dam and splitter. He will probably also do extensive work under the hood or even re-power the car. So half of what he is paying for is getting redone. Now he might have to be selective on what kind of car is the right car for this project but I am sure that can be over come. The car he linked to is heavily modded. Stripped interior, all carbon fiber, carbon fiber rear bumpers, SR20DET drive train. If he goes this route, which is fine, he will use maybe 30% of what he paid for up front. If I wanted to build a restomod I would look for a 72 or 73 or possibly even a 260z with minimal rust. A little under the battery tray would be ok if the frame rail is good. A little in the floor would be acceptable. Maybe a little in a dogleg. Frame rails would have to be good and the rockers. If the wheel arches have some rust, who cares. Cut it out on the flare line and close them up. Add the flares and move on. I am sure I could find this car for way less than $16,000. I could get the repairs done professionally and might could even squeeze the finished paint work in there too. Which would put me money ahead of paying 16k up front then adding body work and paint on top of that I mean, I just found with a quick search, a really clean 260 with no rust and a L28 turbo already installed for $10,500...

There are quite a few 2k epoxy primers brands, any good paint shop can put you on to them. But once you have picked a brand stay with it for all the different coats, don't mix and match different companies, it's just safer. Thanks, not original, Jeep colour, anvil grey. If you are going to media blast then I would say do it all at once, interior and exterior, then prime the inside and outside at the same time. Personally I would skip the POR15, it won't work well with standard primers and paint and won't offer more protection than a properly prepared body with standard products

Either verify with a mechanical gauge or not! At least 4 people have told you, the gauge is not accurate... The advise is free, but from the sounds of it, it has more value than what you have to pay your mechanic. The people on these forums know these cars many times better than almost any mechanic!

Thanks Guys! I Just found one and ended up with a great deal on grill and bumper combo from a local on craigslist. I appreciate the inputs. -Lime Yellow

If you are going to cut the wheel wells to run flairs you might as well start with a rougher car. I totally agree. I like some of the restomods that get done but there are better cars that can be used for this type of setup. Really clean cars are getting rarer and will have more value if they aren't heavily modified. Once you start cutting on the car, it's very hard to go back!

What about me? I still lurk around here ya know! Knock yourself out!

The first "Item #10" (Block painted in genuine Nissan blue) on the rebuild list you showed is probably the only thing that you can be sure was done. The fact that there's a second "Item #10" on the sheet should be a clue to the quality and thoroughness of the seller. Who, if I remember correctly, had/has a sketchy reputation. Dennis

If you don't mind doing some reading, there are several extremely well documented restorations on this forum that have all the information you are asking for in great detail. We are all very helpful people here, but having us regurgitate all of this info in every new rebuild thread is overkill. Look at Grannyknots rebuild thread, check out Hazmatt's awesome thread and maybe even mine. Lots of info that will answer all your questions. Or at least help refine your questions...

@theguppies Don't forget about us Canadian customers too! DHL Express Shipping is a great cross border carrier. UPS and FedEx are terrible for brokerage fees etc. I too am slowly convincing the wife that the new dash is a must for our half done restoration. I am on track to order the 280Z version before the end of this year!

@pogden @wheee! 280z version will be out mid next year. @psdenno it is made out of injection foam and vinyl. I have the same company made me a dash for a different car. The car has been outside for 5 years and still looks new.

Voicing my *serious* interest in a 280Z version as well. I spent days refurbishing mine and it looks ... okay ..., but I'm not sure it's going to last. Would love to buy a new one.

With the exchange rate, this will be a big hit to the wallet, but wow.... sure looks nice. +1 on the 280 version

Ditto !!!!

Hoping to see a 280Z version!

I hope they plan to do 280z as well.