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Haha! Fuel on the mind?

It also makes a good personalized license plate. Dennis

Did anyone catch this auction on Discovery or Velocity last night? It was the first time I have ever seen a 240Z auction televised at Barrett-Jackson before. Rick Debruhl talked about how "the 240Z pretty much single-handily almost killed the British sports car world". Mike Joy was on the stage with the car and talked about how the car was "restored to a high standard". Mike also pointed out that this '72 had the earlier 2400 OHC valve cover that came on the first 8000 Zs and that on eBay that you would pay up to $600.00 for one. Both of them seemed enthusiastic about the car and 240Zs in general. I thought it was pretty cool to finally see a 240Z auction televised on Barrett-Jackson and go for a good amount of money (even with the half-dash cap ).

Mine was "M 5150", from glove box. Very fitting, code for involuntary psych hold.

Thanx 468 I need all the help I can get....?.WOW am I excited!

On the 78, the Fuel Pump Relay relies on the Fuel Pump Control Relay for power to the coil. It does not rely on the AFM. The connection to the flap on the AFM are labeled as "USELESS" in the factory diagram. The Fuel Pump Control Relay relies on two signals combined to energize the the Fuel Pump Relay. The ignition must be on, and there must be oil pressure. The fuel pump does not come on with the starter. You will not see any voltage at the fuel pump when trying to start the car. If you want to see if you have voltage at the fuel pump, you have to jumper the two Green/Blue wires at the Fuel Pump relay. (The Green/Blue wire next to the White/Black wire on the connector for the Fuel Pump Relay should have 12VDC to ground all of the time since it is connected to the fusible link.) I am pretty sure the FSM in the resources section on this site has the wiring diagram. Just click on the Resources tab. This is a better alternative for a wiring diagram:

@zKars might have a spare around that is beyond salvage... he might be willing to do a little investigative journalism to counter all this #FakeNews

First thing I would check is to see if your fuel pump check valve leaks a little and is allowing the fuel pressure to drop off overnight. If you don't want to go through the hassle of installing a fuel pressure gauge, you can get an idea if that's what's going on simply by pressurizing the fuel system before you try to start the car. On those mornings when the problem "would normally occur", pull the starter solenoid wire off and turn the key to START to get the fuel pump to run without engaging the starter. Then after a couple seconds of that, put the wire back on and then try to start the engine normally. If it starts instantly, then that's probably what's happening. If it still takes just as long to start even after making sure there is fuel pressure, then maybe there's an issue somewhere else. I've removed my cold start injector, so mine takes a couple cranks to start because of that. I'm OK with the delay as a trade off for fewer leak locations and simplicity.

The Harbor Freight tester JSM mentioned is a vacuum tester and fuel pressure tester in one, and its about 30$ if I remember correctly. I've used it on my Z,Camry, and Volvo and it reads pretty accurate as all those cars run well. You might check ignition timing as well. I bought Harbor freight's xenon timing gun for around 40$ too, and so far it works fine. Good tools to have if you own a Z, or any older car really. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

If any of you can help advise me on where to order parts for a Datsun 240Z (because I'm new to this car), then I will drive that. However, if not, then I will probably drive my Jaguar E-Type Roadster 1965 (right).

I live in the Portland Oregon metro area, surrounded by tech professionals with nostalgic memories, some of their own times and some of their parents. They're all rich. The 280ZX's were both 2+2's. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

I'm using Tygon transparent yellow tubing from McMaster-Carr. Been on five years and still OK. They have a chart so you can check if various types are OK with coolant or whatever.

When I first clicked the link it showed $40,700 for this 240Z. It now says "register to view price". Here's a snip I caught of it;

The only good Hagar is Montrose Hagar.

Britney Spears.

...and you would know that because...?

Harbor frieght sells a kit. Not the best gauge but has everything you need. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

New fit is good.

Sounds like really low fuel pressure or the AFM is not connected. Running on cold start valve fuel or dribbles from the injectors. When the throttle is touched it leans out and dies. Could be that the EFI system is not even powered. No injection from the injectors. The CSV has a somewhat separate power supply. Different pin from the EFI relay. hav to get of of the pone and find a compter

Something currently talked about, check the vane in the AFM. Its under the black box. Makes sure it moves freely and also pop off the black cover on the TPS. Make sure it's not stuck on the throttle Idle contact, the contact closer to the rear of the car. Spider webs and moisture cause problems on those components. Have you washed the engine bay lately?

Sounds like the fuel filter is running dry to me. Runs until it's emptied. Try clear filter after the filter but before the fuel rail. My crudded up fuel tank did the same. After it sat and the debris fell to the bottom it would run about one block then die out. Took the hose off the filter outlet and blew into it until I heard bubbling in the tank. Hooked it back up and drove it home, many times. Then I figured it out.

Yeah I can smooth out the idle for sure so I expect my drive will be fun. Going for a drive soon. Will report back. So the plan is to set her up to pass emissions testing standards (when its time) and dial her in to run good the rest of the time.

You said you have fuel, but how is the pressure? How long was the car sitting before you started working on it?

Add a period here and there... helps with the reading. Did you put a low resistance coil in? Did you remove the ballast resistor?

Assembly

Guys give them some time it is a lot of work to rebuild these dashes. I looked into it many years a go. I could not get the math to work and all the parts to lineup. Headless to say almost every 240 to 280Z would love a remanufactured dash. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

You could just tag along in front or behind them and hang out with them at the stops, roads are still free

I will second Sean's advice. I been living with the precision mistake for years. Just went to the junk yard the other day and found perfect 2002 Kia seals. Door closes perfect . I don't understand how precision even put these out and why and the hell MSA sold them. So when Precision showed MSA these seals or MSA tried them , did they just assume the seals needed to be broke in? That's what they left us assuming. Sorry I'm on a rant, but this isn't the first thing I got from MSA - the Z experts, that was junk. i might order a new set of Kia seals , but no precision stuff.