Leaderboard

So nice to have an Electrical Engineer on our forum.......especially when I know so little about the science.....all I really know about electricity is "it bites you, but you can't see it". Take care of yourself Steve.....we need to keep you around!

If you have the opportunity to visit Ireland, check out this little museum in Waterville on the Ring of Kerry. It has a great display of cable samples and other equipment from the original trans-Atlantic cable-laying efforts... http://www.ireland.com/en-us/what-is-available/attractions-built-heritage/historic-houses-and-castles/destinations/republic-of-ireland/kerry/waterville/all/1-90308/ The Irish whiskey isn't bad, either.

I agree with Bob, they look good for only 75 miles. Post another picture after 1,000. 8^)

Those actually look real good! You don't need to worry about those for awhile Jai. Now go drive some more and enjoy.

Put in some work on my rally clock. Excited to soon be able to install it.

Hi my friends, A catch up on Redbird and her new clutch. What a difference in her performance, oh the ZOOM she has now! I had no idea her driving was so not right. Since the clutch she tries to jump out from underneath me. Ha! The trick with the alcohol in the gas seems to have cleared out those bugger gremlins that were making her stall out. Nothing but good smooth running now. Should have figured that out immediately. Hopefully my avoiding that gas station will cause that to not happen again. When I picked her up, I managed to leave the shop without stalling her out. That was good, I did not want to look bad in front of Pete. Lost it tho at the first stoplight. The remainder of the trip home went well. Today as I drove to church, I didn't even think of it and muscle memory took over the job for a beautiful drive. At church, I was telling a friend about how this group jumped in and gifted me with $ for the clutch, and that the total was only $30 under the cost of the labor. At that point, he got out his wallet and handed me $30, and said "now your labor charges are all paid for." How amazing that was, I had no idea he would do that, what a sweet man. So... the total of the installation of the clutch was $335, and with what you all sent plus Jim's gift at church, I have received the full amount I owed Pete. I have been sending the $ to him via PayPal. Easier than driving over there, costs less gas too. Now all I have to do is to finish out the month, with the $99 I spent for the parts, missing from the purse. It is difficult to manage, but we (Deanna, RedBird, and myself) will make it. Cuts out the goodies for the month. Not gonna worry about that tho. I have a wonderful ZOOM, in fine shape to drive! Hahaha... I typed a "Z" back in that last sentence, and the auto correct changed it to ZOOM. I like that better, so will leave it. Have a great afternoon all, blessings for each of you. You are the BEST, Jai

Those BWT-5's can cause an chirping noises in the rear though Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

A quick update. I went and QC'd the hatch clip this afternoon. The metal was not thick like I thought and easily rested flush in the recess of the hatch vent trim. There were two minor issues. 1. The hole was a little too far to the right based on the pictures. 2. The bend on the bottom and far right was a little too long. It actually would have worked the way it was but I asked it be corrected to match the original more. The next test clip should be ready tomorrow or Wednesday. I will keep everyone posted.

To gwri8...... yes it was. but at this point in my life I'm more interested in getting the car back .... more dependable.

If you come across a nice engine splash pan for a 280.... let me know!

Great looking Z! With your rims and the rubber on the bumpers, I think the black striping creates an awesome look! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Don't forget about @Zed Head and @Captain Obvious. They are on top of a lot of the electrical threads. Heck, I appreciate all of the information provided by others, too. You don't see many questions from me because I have been reading here and find my solutions frequently before I have the problem. I just try to store away as much information from this site as possible.

I work with modern fibre optic submarine cables and enjoy researching the early telegraph cables (as much as I enjoy Z's... so those who know me understand the extent ). I was recently perusing historical Nissan publications and came across this 1962 document: The footer contains an interesting reference: Cable Address "NISMO" Tokyo. NISMO was the shortened address (International Identifier for the Telegraph Office) used by NISsan MOtor corporation to receive telegraphs. The short form allowed for the sender to use fewer characters in the telegraph/teletype message to reduce costs. If you research the telegraph messaging techniques, compressing words and acronyms were from well formed and standardized methods used long before the similar ad hoc usage in texting. "Cable" comes from Submarine Telegraph Cable which was used to describe the messaging system used for ~100 years prior to 1962 for international telecommunications. In 1962 International telephone calls were quite rare. The first telephone cable across the Pacific was COMPAC in 1963 that could only carry 80 calls simultaneously. So NISMO was first used in Telecoms before Motorsports. Now you know the complete story

Gavin, You'll find that - in practice - you don't need to do anything with your rear brakes except make sure that they are working perfectly. Both the solid rotor and ventilated rotor MK63s are plug and play for street and mild sporting use and you don't need to worry about F/R bias. I have used both solid and ventilated MK63s on all my cars and can tell you from experience that unless you are going racing you don't really need to worry. The 13/16" rear cylinders were same size as those used stock on some of the C10-series Skylines, so parts are available but I wouldn't bother personally. If you get that serious about (period correct) brake performance you'd be fitting MK63s on the rear too, as per homologation... The TOPYs might need a thin shim type spacer between hub and wheel, as used on the C10-series Skylines:

What would shipping be to Indiana 47374. They make great fun office chairs.

I mounted it to the transmission tunnel in my 260Z. No issues so far (7 or 8 years later).

As I recall - the rear wheel cylinders were a different size - with the Ventirated Type.. 1978 Sports Option -

Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I decided to experiment a little. I bought a fork cap tool and reamed it out to fit a gland nut. Sorry for the picture quality. I didn't feel like getting a better camera when I was done.

Since I've been through a lot of oiling with the ITG air filter I use on my Z, I'll chime in. No Toil makes a great foam filter oil - you spray it on the dry (clean) filter generously, rub it into the foam carefully, then squeeze out the excess. The foam will be very sticky, and can make a little bit of a mess on anything it touches while installing, but that stickiness is what catches the dust and keeps the inside of your engine clean. The No Toil oil is nightmarishly difficult to wash off without a proper cleaner though, which they sell. Interesting stuff that cleaner, it's a powder that has a lovely burning sensation when you use it to wash the oil off your hands after forgetting to wear gloves when oiling... ITG has actually recently switched from recommending No Toil and now recommends "Rock Oil Factory Eco Foam". This oil is actually water soluble, meaning you can wash it using water and a touch of regular detergent. No need for a fancy foam filter cleaner. I'll be switching to it. Coast Fabrication in California sells it, good people.

If the car you are talking about is a 1973 240Z - CONDITION is 90% of the Value, followed by Location. If the location was the same, then the selling price would be the same. The difference would be in how long it would take to find a buyer. Or the difference might be how easily a buyer could convince you the A/T hurts the value, so you would sell it for less. 10 years ago the A/T might have hurt its value ... today - mostly original, well cared for, pretty clean - - cleaned, detailed and properly presented...the low end seems to be $18K no matter the transmission. Personally - it depends on how much you want to spend swapping it out to a 5spd.. That is money you won't recover as it really won't increase the value of the car. As Chuck mentioned - money spent on proper improvements like reupholstery for the seats etc - is money that you might at least get some of it back. FWIW, Carl B.

I have had salvage yard refuse to sell the whole car. So I told them to cut it in half. I'll buy both pieces. Sometimes that works...

Very cool and rare parts Kats. I love your HS30-H, looks great and I wish they exported that model outside of Japan.

If I were close by I would take those off your hands. Just do not like the flat black look. But, I would immediately paint them to match the rear finisher panel and clear coat. And never look back.