Topics Last 30 Days

Good news! First off, the Ford/Mazda/Toyota (and so on) AFM actually works! In my opinion this is a huge win for everybody that wants to keep these cars alive. I started of by opening up the new AFM and having a look inside. To open the new AFM was a bit more difficult than the Datsun AFM as they used a ton of silicon sealant and plugged the idle air screw from factory. The sealant can be carefully removed with a knife and the plug can be drilled out to access the idle air screw. Inside the AFM looks a lot like the Datsun unit with the exact same functionality. The resistance values between pin 6-8 and 8-9 where higher then the Datsun AFM but I still hooked the AFM up to a 12 volt battery to check for the voltage outputs as that actually matters for the stock Datsun ECU. In stock configuration from the junkyard Ford (USA) Probe the AFM gave a reverse logarithmic signal range from 1,42 to 7,77 volt. Starting at 1,42 volts when the AFM is closed and then rising quickly to around 5 volts before slowly climbing up to 7,77 volts. This is within range of what I was expecting so I decided to try and install the AFM into the car to test it out and try and dial it in. The new AFM is significantly larger than the old Datsun AFM. To install the new AFM, the intake booth and the rubber booth between the AFM and throttle body, needed to strech over the larger AFM unit. Luckly both where flexible enough and didn’t tear. The stock electrical connector just plugs right in so that was great. The new AFM unit unfortunately doesn’t have bolt holes in the bottom like the Datsun unit but mounting can be fixed by a custom 3D printed or metal bracket. I just left mine loos as I just needed to test it for now and drive to the inspection station. I had to tighten the spring (clockwise) a bit more than the 3 teeth described in the Australian forum post but that may be due to my engine having other issues causing the car to run rich. After installing the car fired straight up and with a bit of tightening and loosening of the spring I got the car to run way better than before. One nice thing about the new AFM is that you can adjust the spring gear a lot easier. Just carefully lift the little arm to the left and use your finger or a flathead screwdriver to adjust the gear. Then just let the little arm go and make sure is seated properly (rotate the gear anti clockwise a bit to properly seat it). The blue mark was the original tooth position but in the picture I rotated the gear the wrong way. As a side note I did clean my injectors and replace the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I also found out my AAR was faulty and leaking a lot of air past the valve so I disconnected that and plugged both sides of the hose. The cheap meter I installed said about 28psi which is low but as the car is running rich and not lean I will exclude the FPR and fuel pump as a problem for now. My injector are probably just bad which sucks but the car still runs good enough for now. I also replaced my Bosch spark plugs for NGK BR6ES with 1,05mm gap and a replaced my 1,5 Ohm ignition coil with a 0,6 Ohm one just in case. I had the car inspected yesterday and the CO gas values where down to 2,4% (4,5% allowed) and all other values where good so I’m happy. Although the car ended up failing due to rusted thru frame rails and a crooked rear axle probably caused by a twisted chassis. I started a legal dispute with the auction company and previous owner as the both sold the car as “without rust and free from structural damage” but that is something for another thread. This probably the end of this thread. Although feel free to revive it if somebody has any questions and I’ll try to help out. I believe that posting information like this will help massively to understand these cars and keep them alive .

Hi Nils, A name on that Swiss dealer list jumped straight out at me. I believe Rudolf Seiler of Fischbach was the brother of Ernst 'Hunter' Seiler of Romanshorn, a well-known Porsche dealer and racing driver from the late 1940s through to the late 60s. I guess car sales concessions ran in the family. Sorry for the digression!

Good morning and greetings from Germany/Europe. After reading along here for a long time, I am now introducing myself as the ‘marketing guy’ from S30.world. Even if this might be a mistake, because I'm speaking up as a "newbie" and will surely get 40 knives rammed into my back. But I'm willing to take that risk. So please forgive me if my language isn't perfect and I don't know most of the people here in the forum. I think the community here has been connected for a very long time and it's difficult to let someone outside the USA into the "inner circle". But let me at least try, and I hope that a certain amount of friendliness in all directions will certainly do everyone good. As Chris already wrote, we are busy every day doing our best and put a lot of effort into understanding and paying attention to every detail as best we can. Of course, the fact that our team is located all over the world also plays a major role in this. We are in the Netherlands, Hungary, Switzerland, Australia, England, Japan, the USA... This is very important because the S30 series was not developed solely for Japan, nor solely for the USA, nor solely for Europe. The entire S30 family is a globally designed car. And every export market is different (even though, as we know, the USA makes up a large proportion of exported cars). But not many people know that European cars are significantly different from those in the USA. The fact that cars in Portugal are also VERY different from cars in the rest of Europe is also an interesting story. But why is that? What impact do laws in Australia have on cars in the USA, for example? What do changes to cars in Japan have to do with cars in Europe? Why are there still 260Zs and no 280Zs in Europe and other export countries in the years 76-78, while in the USA it is the other way around? These are all questions whose answers are connected like a tight net. So you should never look at just one export market. That would not be the whole story. We, as a group of people spread across the globe, gather our knowledge and try to answer questions. (For example: who knew that between 1969 and 1978 there were 10 different factory hubcaps for the Zs?) We are simply passionate nerds who not only restore cars, run a museum and reproduce parts, but are also on the hunt for all these undiscovered mysteries. I think it matters less which words in our press release are "allowed" from this forum – because surely it is also our goal to appeal to people who haven't owned a Z for 50 years, but are new to the topic. Above all, it's about sharing all our experience (people are already laughing about the fact that I was born in a Datsun. My family has been driving Datsuns since the early 1970s, and the first car I ever sat in was a 1973 Cherry E10, a model that wasn't even available in the USA) and to create a place that inspires all Z fans worldwide. I therefore invite all sceptics to visit our museum in the Netherlands and take a look at the cars. It's certainly exciting to see how they are built. Incidentally, we are very grateful if anyone on location notices that, for example, a screw is the wrong colour or a hose does not have the correct number. But please don't judge something like that just because you see photos on a computer screen. Come and visit, you are invited, and I am sure that we are all nice people who share the same hobby.

Both are under the center dash. In the blower switch harness is a BLUE that is A/C power. And there is also a 2-pin connector with a B/W and a G for power to the fuel pump. I always put an inertia switch in that circuit.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.

Pics or it didn't happen.

Ah... no, that's my Volvo C30 🙂

Thank you for that information. Yes last night i opened it up and found one of the spring contacts was missing entirely and the other one was severely bent. I attempted to create my own but was unsuccessful. Im going to take it apart again today to see if i can repair.

Is it Charles ? My memory is short . I’d refer you to my thread on Hybridz . I managed to document a lot on there . I also have a thread on the Megasquirt install there . Ask away about anything you read HybridZ3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47

to last, they need to be welded really good and probably not just around the outer edge but somewhere internally to prevent flexing. Flexing there will eventually cause cracks just like the cars get sometimes at the upper rear qtr to roof joint

I was able to get M4-.7 x 20 oval head screws locally but had to paint the heads with gloss black rattle can. Needed fasteners to hold the A/C control panel on the ICF but no one has oval head thread cutting screws the right size. Ended up getting #6 x 3/4" wood screws which were also painted gloss black. Used a #6 countersink drill bit to prepare the plastic panels I fabricated (pix will follow soon). Looks great when assembled on my workbench and now looking forward to getting everything attached to the car.

I’ll have to recheck my setting for my stroker but I think my fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 180 ? I have an ECU so it turns on my fans at a lower setting at 185 and full speed at 195 .

Yeah, Im not convinced myself. This is their latest youtube video featuring the shell. As Alan mentioned above at the end of the day a Datsun with a body made in China isnt a Datsun anymore!

Thanks for the heads up. I will double check the seat mount location next time I am out there. I was thinking it might be the picture angle but won't hurt to check. Thanks!

@Mike As the title of this thread suggests... It's hammer time. It's time for you to wield the ban hammer. Wield it like Thor. ☠️ *If you wield a tool or a weapon, you handle it effectively. Picture a gallant knight wielding a sword or a skillful chef wielding a whisk. Or picture Thor. Or Mike.

Be patient, They are customer friendly and will get back to you. If your that concerned call them.

Won’t find this info on FB- lol. I worked on a 72 thru Covid . The guy texts me yesterday that he has no rear brakes . I put all new SS lines in his car and had to clean/ rebuild his brake switch valve . I’ve had the weirdest stuff with his brakes . The O rings failed on the brake switch and fluid was forced from one side to the other back up into the MC . Now his rear brakes don’t work - so after reading this I assume it’s that proportioning valve . I haven’t laid hands on it yet . Looks like I have good reference material here . Wish me luck

It's a remarkable bit of production. Kudo's to Nissan Canada for financing the project, and to the Canadian ad agency for designing and realizing a killer advert that properly and expertly recognizes the significance of the Z's role in creating Nissan's worldwide market presence (notwithstanding Nissan's Japan's efforts throughout the 1970's and 1980's to throw it all away). Additional kudos to Nissan Canada for providing its corporate facilities in Mississauga, Ontario as the venue for the annual show-and-shine meeting hosted b y the Ontario Z-Car Association (look it up). I'm really proud of Canada's (continuing) role in supporting the Z legacy. Here on CZCC, I would draw your attention to the importance of our Canadian members in making this site such a valuable Z resource. Those who come immediately to mind are 240/260/280Z (who's written a complete library of Z rebuild articles), along with Grannyknot, CanTechZ, Wheee and zKars (some of the best restoration build contributors that this site has enjoyed). I should also mention that, for years (dating back to 1994), Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings in Kingston, Ontario, was (I believe) the only source worldwide for decent replacement Z floor panels and front frame rails.

Car is running a little bit better now with the MSD Blaster 2 coil maybe its masking the problem only. Still testing the car. I did noticed the mechanic adjusted the carbs as follows: 4 turns down each carb, 7 at idle screw for front carburetor and 10 at idle screw for rear carburetor. The fast idle screw when raised to 2500 rpm gave different measures on front and rear carburetors.

@One4One I may have something, but I agree with Jim, make a wanted post. There are a few different harnesses for the 73.

How much are you asking for the parts car, and/or is it still available to bring a trailer and load it up? My name is TJ and I live in Washington state.

I had thought about putting the engine and tranny back in. Then the remainder of the parts would probably fit in the car and it would haul easily on a trailer.

Many years ago I started converting the wiring diagram from the service manual into something I could actually read with color coded lines. I scanned the original and then placed it behind the drawing and that is what you see in the pic. If someone would like to pick up where I left off I will send the Visio drawing. If you want to monetize it I would like some compensation. It is probably 90% or more complete but it was sideline project while I was working and I have no time to finish it. If someone thinks the non-complete version is useful I can post it as a .pdf without the original scan in the background.

Hi all - I am re-doing the carpet in my '78 280z which entails sanding some rust, POR15 sealer, dynamat, etc. When I took off the carpet and sound deadener, I found these two holes that look like they're supposed to have body plugs, but don't. Any idea if these are supposed to stay open, or if there are plugs that are supposed to be in here, are they're available at a local parts store? These are in the passenger side footwell to the left of the fuse box. The one on the left is at the beginning of the transmission tunnel and the one on the right is through the firewall. NOTE: I've boxed both holes in blue with arrows pointing to them. The gray shown on the left side is just the lighting - that is a hole.

It is just a hole, normally has a rubber plug in it. I have used it to mount seat belt retractors with proper re-enforcement underneath where it exits through a frame box member.