Topics Last Week

Oh? You mean above and beyond burning out the internals on the selector and high-beams swtiches? Do you think this is something to be concerned about now that my power draw has been dropped so much? GENIUS. I was literally just now chatting with my wife about how I can either make the female sides more grabby, or the male sides "fatter". Did not think of twisting to accomplish this. I will keep that one in the arsenal. Thanks! Now I just need to get the harness connector disassembled and verify root cause. I already have a spare...which might actually be in the car now (ref. prior comment somewhere). I had an unrelated issue several years ago and put in a new one but the old one tested out great. Uncertain which is in the car now. If I remember I'll open the box in my parts bin and see who's hiding in there.

Wow. Was it running like that or was during installation? How's the crankshaft surface? I think that new is avaialble. Z Car Depot IncSearch: 11 results found for "damper"New, used, and OEM repair and replacement parts for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, and 510.

SWEET!! I like the “517” series myself.

That would be great. Here's a clip from zKars notes. if I'm understanding the drawing correctly, he measured the wire diameter at 6mm (.24inch) and the insulation OD at about 9mm (.35 inch). I'm finding gauge numbers and wire diameters all over the place and am just looking for something similar.

It has been a serious while since I was able to put some actual work in the car. I had some urgent projects on the house to complete, and then I managed to injure my hands, but now I'm back at it again. First, I had to re-install my tank. Since I sold my new fuel tank including rubbers and straps at the Japanclassic, to help somebody get is car running again quickly, I had to wait for a new one to arrive from S30.world. Unfortunately, new straps are currently not available anymore, so i had to go through my set of existing straps to get the best ones for temporary usage: First i had the rubber insulator blocks installed on the tank: And then had it all wrapped to avoid scratches on my brand new tank: And then everything installed. Thanks to my new transmission hoist, this was a lot easier than last time. And last but not least, i had the drain plug installed, which comes with the tank: Next? Front end work. Ever since I had my wobbly bent EU spec front spoiler installed, I was wondering myself which route to go. EU-spec corner valances with the mounting holes for the spoiler, but no holes for the Lower turn signals or other way? After thinking about it for a while, i decided to take the best of both worlds. Some might call it sacrilegious, but I decided to go what appeals the most to my eyes. US spec lower turn signals, but EU-spec front spoiler (which also helps stabilize the car and is not just for the looks). My original thinking was that the US-spec corner valances need to be modified with that "loose-nut" mounting brackets for the lip, but when checking my EU-spec valances, i realized that on the corner valances (unlike the center valance) there is only a simple hole. So the modification of US-spec valances to fit the EU-spec spoiler is simply to drill a 5mm hole in the right place. To get the right place, i made a nice little template from tape. Transferred it from the EU- to the US-valances, and drilled / cleaned it. Unfortunately, I found that on the LH-side somebody had previously drilled holes in the wrong places, for whatever reason. Probably they had some different spoiler installed? I'll leave that to the bodyshop. So everything set to install the spoiler completely? Almost. As you can see, the brackets on my worn out spoilers are quite bent. Some were even completely missing or "fixed" with a bit of backyard-engineering: After I bent all the existing brackets in a more-or-less correct position and installed it back on the car, i have to admit it looks quite good, even though it's still just a completely temporary mock up. I also had my replica US-spec turn signals installed (I will look for some good OEM-ones, as these lack the mandatory E-stamps on it). Which made the iconic, but also a bit ugly, EU-spec turn signals obsolete. Even though I don't think the look is too bad, I always have the feeling that they were just slapped on the car in a hurry, and are held on the bumper with only one nut, so they always look a bit off in their position and are hard to get it right (see previous photo). So I had them removed. The US / Japan spec turn signals always looked much sleeker to me, fully integrated under the bumper. Like intended from their designers. So for the moment, I'll stick to this setup. But I might change back to full EU-spec, if required. During this work, I was also able to fix two previous issues with the front bumper alignment, which is great too. From my point of view, the front-end (everything in front of the radiator support) is completed now. Next I'll focus on some other points. My 2-do list is getting smaller, and I'm happy with every task I can check off. I expect DHL ringing on my door with some nice stuff from Japan every moment, and i have some more things on the way here, so expect another update soon.

I was very lucky to find a full set of 4 carpet clips in a recent parts haul. Never actually touched one, vaguely remember a thread here about them 74995-E4100 Qty 4 in the fiche. Three are nice enough to use, yellow zinc plating is pretty good, but one is a rusty mess. Usable, could just sandblast and spray yellow zinc. I see SS reproduction sets on some of the usual vendors. JDM-car=parts has a OEM refinished group of 7 for $99 USD. Asking $50USD for my set of 4 plus postage.

My mechanic really sucks. Look at the way he set my timing. He argues that everything needs to be subject to trial and error. I know i have a schneider 274f cam installed but 20 degrees?

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

Patrick Bateman's favorite song.

This was a huge help for me since I had no clue about the carbs. I'll also add mine was a hard start too until I adjusted the valves. That helped a lot.

Hey Z-sters! I'm finally getting around to addressing the hood on my '72 240Z, which had been banged up, bondo-ed and repainted under previous ownership and needed to be addressed. I removed the paint from the corners, to evaluate and repair/strengthen before repainting. (see my attached photos attached). Can anyone send me photos of the underside of a 240z hood - specifically the front lip corners and middle as shown in my photos) so I know how it SHOULD look? Buch appreciated in advance! Jughead

I had one of my masters re-sleeved, due to pitting in the bore. Works great with new seals and been trouble free for over 4 years. I'd rather rebuild and refurbish original components if they can be, newer parts don't seem as well made. Thanks for checking your clamps, I'll go with what was on the Green 5/70 BAT 240Z as it was low mileage and relatively untouched.

Ball joint failure is a real thing. It usually causes major damage and loss of control. So the calculation is about how close a person wants to get to that catastrophe. Which also endangers other people on the road. But in this case, Nissan has given an inspection procedure. If it meets spec. why replace? What's odd is that they say that the ball joint cannot be disassembled, when, obviously, it can be.

This is a spread sheet of what I had couple of years ago when I tried to sell on Facebook. Not many left the building…..

Hey All, I hope someone can help me out, this is a rehash from another Z forum, but I'm spreading it in the hope of finding a solution. I'm in the early stages of restoring a 71 240z and thought a chassis jog would make life easier. As of now, step one is creating headaches, as described below. As of now i have built a chassis jig/frame and am in the process of bolting up my bent 240z to it. And here is the rub. I spent countless hours pouring over the only chassis dimensions document out there. That being the BF-3 204z dimensions PDF. As described previously I was thinking that the dimensions are wrong, or my car is very, very bent. With what I describe below, I don't think the car can possibly be 'that' bent. Some framing of the problem, with a crap pun: I have used four mounting points (described from rear to front): (1) Rear diff mount (not mustachio bar), (4 lateral bolts) (2) Front mount to the rear lower control arm, (4 lateral bolts) (3) Transmission mount, and then (two lateral bolts) (4) Front Strut Tower Top ("A" point). The dimensions (that don't work): (1) Reference point. (2) 465mm from ref. (1). this one is 15mm to short. (closer to 480mm) (3) 1427.5mm from ref. (1). This one lines up. (4) 2381.3mm from ref. (1). This one is 20mm to short. (closer to 2401.3mm) To my point......what the heck is going on here??!! Between point ref 1 and 2 my car is 480mm. In the BF-3 document, there is no reference to a 480mm dimension.... The car cannot be warped by 15mm, it's all structural mounting points. So, what am I missing? Moving on to the dimension between 1 and 4. Again, too short by 15 to 20mm... So, what is the actual dimension? All of the lateral dimensions are correct. I scratch my head. It's great though as it gives me something to talk with my wife about over dinner. Thank you in advance!

I'd love to have quick jacks, but I've used a set of standard plastic ramps for a couple of decades.

I've used common jackstands for years. )n the 280ZX in both front and rear there are obvious places which can support jackstands. In the rear, I slide a floor jack under the differential, lift on it and place jackstands under the places in front of the axle where the suspension bolts to the underbody. it's not hard to find stout places that can support the stands. What the factory manual says aren't the only places you can support the car if you're thoughtful about it. In front on my 280ZX, I slide the floor jack under the cross beam beneath the engine, then position the jackstands under the stoutest place in the frame rails with a chunk of 2x4 on top of each jackstand to spread the weight out. On my 280ZX I jack up the front first, then the back. It's low enough that getting much of an angle on either end makes it hard to access the other end. you may have to slide the jack in from the side, not the front or back. Lift carefully. Push on the car and make sure it's stable. Push on it after the jackstands are in place, and double-confirm that it's stable. Patience and thought will yield a safe result.

I love the claims about patents considering that design is very common.

Need both sides

Location and price of the turbo engine

Perfect thank you guys for confirming that for me. Just on the topic of "new" systems and "old" systems I'm currently limited to the Legalis R exhaust pipes product number 750-15414 from fujitsubo themselves and the super Ex headers (510-15037) just to make sure these are the ones that would fit as I didn't know there were older or newer version of the exhaust. see the images for reference

That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.