Topics Last Week

Both are under the center dash. In the blower switch harness is a BLUE that is A/C power. And there is also a 2-pin connector with a B/W and a G for power to the fuel pump. I always put an inertia switch in that circuit.

Before I hand my Chassis for final (re-)work and alignment to the bodyshop again, I want to make sure that I didn't miss details. Over the years, many shops and people have worked on the car, and installed replacement panels from various sources. So the risk is high that some small things are not correct. For that reason, I try to test-fit as much as possible to figure out problematic areas, so that I can discuss with the bodyshop how to fix it, before it's too late, when the paint is on. It also forces me to take some decisions in which direction to go with certain areas, and gives me the opportunity to go through my stockpile of parts and see what's missing for the final assembly, and order some stuff here and there. One of those areas where I identified a small issue was on the rear lower body. The EU-spec cars have an additional number-plate light in the rear bumper, and therefore there is a hole in the rear panel. Obviously, all the replacement panels are based on the US-market models and therefore that hole is missing. Luckily, my man Heiko was kind enough to measure the position and diameter on his unrestored EU-spec 240Z. Here are the measurements, in case you need it: And here we go, the hole is in: I realized the Tank needs to go out (again) to have the hole cleaned from the inside: But that also gave me the opportunity to replace the rusty J-hook bolts with the replated ones, which I got recently. I have ordered New ones already, as these are definitely not the nicest ones, but still better than the rusty ones which were installed before. After that, I was able to install the rear bumper: And the rear number plate lighting. Please note, it's still all just a quick mock-up to identify problems. Most parts are only temporary and will be replaced by nicer ones later. So with this, I think my test-fit of the rear-end area is completed. Luckily, that area doesn't have any issues anymore, Unfortunately there are still some areas here and there, which need to be addressed. But from my point of view, I'm nearing completion of what I can do myself, and I feel confident to deliver the car as-is to the bodyshop to fix the remaining things and have it painted, soon. Oh, and I also got this early Swiss Datsun dealer list, recently. I love how it appears to be a copy from a type-writer or something. Unfortunately, there is no date on the list, but I assume from the looks of it that it's from the late 60ies or early 70ies. I got a palette with some exciting stuff yesterday, too - which I will show you soon, so stay tuned for another update in the coming days.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.

Pics or it didn't happen.

Actually, the problem is that the web site is inconsistent. They do say that the Masterpeices are factory correct restorations. Then they say something different in the Museum. https://s30.world/masterpieces S30.world launches “The Masterpieces program” "A celebration of Nissans S30 platform A limited-run of factory-correct restorations of the iconic Datsun 240Z will become available, with the first one to be sold at auction in the United States on October 23rd 2025. This unique program is focused on the full, factory-accurate restoration of Datsun 240Zs, also known by the S30 chassis code, to a level of detail that makes them identical to how they left the production line over 50 years ago."

Ah... no, that's my Volvo C30 🙂

Thank you for that information. Yes last night i opened it up and found one of the spring contacts was missing entirely and the other one was severely bent. I attempted to create my own but was unsuccessful. Im going to take it apart again today to see if i can repair.

Is it Charles ? My memory is short . I’d refer you to my thread on Hybridz . I managed to document a lot on there . I also have a thread on the Megasquirt install there . Ask away about anything you read HybridZ3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47

to last, they need to be welded really good and probably not just around the outer edge but somewhere internally to prevent flexing. Flexing there will eventually cause cracks just like the cars get sometimes at the upper rear qtr to roof joint

I was able to get M4-.7 x 20 oval head screws locally but had to paint the heads with gloss black rattle can. Needed fasteners to hold the A/C control panel on the ICF but no one has oval head thread cutting screws the right size. Ended up getting #6 x 3/4" wood screws which were also painted gloss black. Used a #6 countersink drill bit to prepare the plastic panels I fabricated (pix will follow soon). Looks great when assembled on my workbench and now looking forward to getting everything attached to the car.

I’ll have to recheck my setting for my stroker but I think my fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 180 ? I have an ECU so it turns on my fans at a lower setting at 185 and full speed at 195 .

Yeah, Im not convinced myself. This is their latest youtube video featuring the shell. As Alan mentioned above at the end of the day a Datsun with a body made in China isnt a Datsun anymore!

Thanks for the heads up. I will double check the seat mount location next time I am out there. I was thinking it might be the picture angle but won't hurt to check. Thanks!

@Mike As the title of this thread suggests... It's hammer time. It's time for you to wield the ban hammer. Wield it like Thor. ☠️ *If you wield a tool or a weapon, you handle it effectively. Picture a gallant knight wielding a sword or a skillful chef wielding a whisk. Or picture Thor. Or Mike.

Be patient, They are customer friendly and will get back to you. If your that concerned call them.

Won’t find this info on FB- lol. I worked on a 72 thru Covid . The guy texts me yesterday that he has no rear brakes . I put all new SS lines in his car and had to clean/ rebuild his brake switch valve . I’ve had the weirdest stuff with his brakes . The O rings failed on the brake switch and fluid was forced from one side to the other back up into the MC . Now his rear brakes don’t work - so after reading this I assume it’s that proportioning valve . I haven’t laid hands on it yet . Looks like I have good reference material here . Wish me luck

It's a remarkable bit of production. Kudo's to Nissan Canada for financing the project, and to the Canadian ad agency for designing and realizing a killer advert that properly and expertly recognizes the significance of the Z's role in creating Nissan's worldwide market presence (notwithstanding Nissan's Japan's efforts throughout the 1970's and 1980's to throw it all away). Additional kudos to Nissan Canada for providing its corporate facilities in Mississauga, Ontario as the venue for the annual show-and-shine meeting hosted b y the Ontario Z-Car Association (look it up). I'm really proud of Canada's (continuing) role in supporting the Z legacy. Here on CZCC, I would draw your attention to the importance of our Canadian members in making this site such a valuable Z resource. Those who come immediately to mind are 240/260/280Z (who's written a complete library of Z rebuild articles), along with Grannyknot, CanTechZ, Wheee and zKars (some of the best restoration build contributors that this site has enjoyed). I should also mention that, for years (dating back to 1994), Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings in Kingston, Ontario, was (I believe) the only source worldwide for decent replacement Z floor panels and front frame rails.

Car is running a little bit better now with the MSD Blaster 2 coil maybe its masking the problem only. Still testing the car. I did noticed the mechanic adjusted the carbs as follows: 4 turns down each carb, 7 at idle screw for front carburetor and 10 at idle screw for rear carburetor. The fast idle screw when raised to 2500 rpm gave different measures on front and rear carburetors.

@One4One I may have something, but I agree with Jim, make a wanted post. There are a few different harnesses for the 73.

How much are you asking for the parts car, and/or is it still available to bring a trailer and load it up? My name is TJ and I live in Washington state.

I had thought about putting the engine and tranny back in. Then the remainder of the parts would probably fit in the car and it would haul easily on a trailer.

Many years ago I started converting the wiring diagram from the service manual into something I could actually read with color coded lines. I scanned the original and then placed it behind the drawing and that is what you see in the pic. If someone would like to pick up where I left off I will send the Visio drawing. If you want to monetize it I would like some compensation. It is probably 90% or more complete but it was sideline project while I was working and I have no time to finish it. If someone thinks the non-complete version is useful I can post it as a .pdf without the original scan in the background.

Hi all - I am re-doing the carpet in my '78 280z which entails sanding some rust, POR15 sealer, dynamat, etc. When I took off the carpet and sound deadener, I found these two holes that look like they're supposed to have body plugs, but don't. Any idea if these are supposed to stay open, or if there are plugs that are supposed to be in here, are they're available at a local parts store? These are in the passenger side footwell to the left of the fuse box. The one on the left is at the beginning of the transmission tunnel and the one on the right is through the firewall. NOTE: I've boxed both holes in blue with arrows pointing to them. The gray shown on the left side is just the lighting - that is a hole.

It is just a hole, normally has a rubber plug in it. I have used it to mount seat belt retractors with proper re-enforcement underneath where it exits through a frame box member.

I've just re-visited this 2020 post. In hindsight, I think this may be the definitive photo essay on the design and construction of S30's 'dogleg' structure. I wish they all looked like this but, as Inline6 notes, the structure is completely missing on far too many Z's (replaced by bodge and newspaper, topped with a Tabco panel). If your Z isn't sound in this area, don't count on your lower seat belt mounts (yours and your passenger's) if you're involved in a collision.