Topics Last Week

I couldn’t close the gap but I could fill it . The reason I made the sleeves was to give me adjustment . Ideally it would have been the perfect gap for a bead of weld . Since the sleeves are close to 3” long I was able to weld it strongly and then cosmetically fill the gaps . I had left over A pillar material which I used to fill that .250” gap .

Well im going to send it to Power brake exchange. I do have this kind of symptoms om revs going up and down during traffic jams. Any way to check this before shipping it to Washington? Maybe a pressure suck gun?

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

Never heard of s30 world collection, i saw some door seals earlier from them though, just thought they where selling parts. Seems they are close to me. Will take a look when I have some free time.

Hi all! I'm finally getting back to my motor swap and I picked up a 5 speed. It looked like the close ratio I was looking for (same case), but the ratios are wonky, so that sent me on a deep dive and discovered it is likely from a 720 with a 240 bell housing. The ratios are as follows: 1st - 3.592;1 2nd - 2.246;1 3rd - 1.415;1 4th - 1.000;1 5th - .813;1 My question is this; Anyone know of a source for the gearsets I would need to convert it to a true close-ratio? I am keeping my eyes open for a close-ratio, but they aren't as easy to find as they once were! I wish I had just bought one many years ago when they were more available! Thanks for any leads you guys might provide! Jeff

Yeah, I don’t think my 240Z bracket would work since the carb spacing is closer together on the L20. I need to hunt down someone near me with a 510 to prototype a kit.

It occurred to me today as I was reinstalling the dashboard (after 17 years) that because I have completely separate wiring for the Vintage Air HVAC system, I mighty just take the power intended for the OEM heater/blower and use that instead of finding a KEY-ON wire. Yes, I know that circuit is activated in the ig-switch's ACC position but because I don't have adolescents who will want to listen to the radio when the car is not running, that might be a good option.

Is it failing closed or open? Some voltage or no voltage? The ballast resistor has a coil of wire that adds the resistance. Might be failing open somewhere. Probably at a connection. Details of the test procedure might give some clues.

Not hard as I recall. Except for the clock, the overlays would slide over or under the needles to .get into position. I think I had to pull the hands off the clock bu they went back on easily. Because there is a reputable supplier offering them - Z Car Depot - you could email or call them for information. They've been very good getting back to me with my questions.

The brake booster tool is nice. That's a nice find!

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

Pretty much rust free pieces from a 70 . Drivers side A pillar section and B pillar section . I won’t need these for my project . 250$ shipped for both

Cats can stop up and restrict the exhaust

This is the one I used with LED lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0811GTVH2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Its a long shot, but putting a feeler out for a 3.364 R200. Looks like only the '79 4 seater manual transmission s130s had them stateside.

@Mike It's still a bot!!

You should never disassemble both sides at the same time! That way you have an assembled one to look at. If you didn't keep the parts well sorted then the auto adjust might not work. The sides are handed I believe

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.