CanTechZ

My understanding is that the buyer pays bid price plus 10% and the seller recieves bid price less 8%. The bottom line BJ makes a lot of money.

For reference here is a picture that shows the clips and brackets for the tail light finisher/surrounds from when I painted mine. I think the clip (item 8 that @siteunseen mentioned) attaches to the bracket that is spot welded to the body if I remember correctly.

Regarding question one, I remember reading about a change to the doors where side impact bars were added to the door structure. I just can't seem to find a reference, this change might have been for later models, ie. 260Z or 280Z.

Here are the door related pages from my parts CD, they have more info relating to questions I & 2 than that shown in carpartsmanual.com. Page 6-G-7 shows four p/n's each for RH & LH door panels and page 6-G-8 shows two p/n's each for lower hinges but not an implementation date.

Interesting, Thanks @26th-Z

I thought that some early US cars with 1969 production dates were UN spec. Maybe @Carl Beck or @26th-Z will chime in. Here's another 1970 Canadian ad,

Ok, you got me. Now I have to come up with an excuse for the collection of parts in the spare bedroom closet.

I happen to have these spares in my office right now. As site said there is a nut that goes on the panel, front side. There is also a flat on the thread and in the panel hole for orientation. But it doesn't really stop rotation, the clamping of the nut does that. Here's a pic. HTH Mike

Point taken

Amazing work on your project, I have this topic bookmarked as a reference in case I ever get to a full resto of my car. Just wondering about the color of the hood hinge torsion bars? I thought they were black as they can be seen though the grill.

I don't really know what the differences for the hose are, but I replied with some info from my parts book CD.

The Nissan parts book shows four part numbers for the PCV hose (item 3) from 1970 to 1973. I'm not sure what the differences are but the first P/N shows for up to 12'70 and the part number starting 1'71 not being backwards compatible. Also here is a picture of my 7'70 car showing the early hose. HTH Mike

I temporarily used a NOS '72 choke cable on my '70 and had to remove the boots. To do that I just carefully pulled them off using linesman plies with the jaws wrapped in electrical tape. Later I put them back on using the same method before I sold that cable and had no issues.

The ICA column refers to parts interchangeability, the attached pages from the 1970 520/521 pickup 1970 parts book show definitions of all the columns. HTH Mike

The '72 choke cable is definitely shorter by a few inches. I managed to get the '72 cable to work in my '70, but the cable was quite bent over where it left the choke linkages on the carbs. In fact it resulted in so much effort to pull the choke lever that I thought I would break the knob. Last year I ended up repairing my original cable by using the original sheath and making a new cable from .055 music wire, .055 stainless wire is also available. It works great now, here are a couple of links on the subject.

Check with Steve @nix240z, maybe he will make more. His website shows out of stock for now. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4842818 Cheers Mike

+1 on the clay bar as the first step, it works good on glass too. I prefer Mothers products. Mike

Did some engine & engine bay detailing, I'm thinking it's not looking bad for 146,000 miles and engine never been out of the car.

Just tried this today on the steering column surround on my Samurai as a test. It was an eye sore in really sad shape, and now its just sad. I must admit it does look way better from 10' away. The bottom half was removed and worked out better than the top as the dash basically has to come out to remove the top half, so it was done in place. Time will tell if it looks good for the long term.

That plate looks like it could be one from the late '70s British Columbia, here is a link to some examples, http://www.worldlicenseplates.com/world/CN_BCOL.html

Interesting, my 7/70 car has closed slots on both sides and no 12V 8W stamp. I've owned the car since '78 and as far as I know it is original.

Your welcome. I didn't realize that the radio face plate for a '72 differed that much from the '70/'71. Before seeing the pictures of your place plate I was expecting that the metal plate would go on with the flanges pointing inward like in the photo with the Jenson unit.

I have never seen the metal plate for a '72, to be sure I would put your plastic radio face plate over it and check that the two lower heater control panel screws don't interfere with the corners. The '70 & '71 plates are flat.

These links have some useful info as well:

On my 7/70 the way you are describing sounds basically like how I have done it in the past. When I unhooked the heater cables I only pulled the heater control panel out enough to allow installation of the radio so that the routing of the cables was not disturbed to much. Then I hooked up the wiring and installed the rear screws on the radio loosely into the chassis brackets. After that I placed the metal backing plate onto the radio and repositioned the heater control panel over the front of the radio, then installed the radio plastic face plate, installed the four heater control panel screws and put the nuts and knobs onto the radio and tightened the back radio to chassis screws. Then finally re-hooked up the heater control cables. It was many years ago so hopefully I didn't miss any thing.