Jump to content

nbenning

Members
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About nbenning

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Wichita, KS
  • Occupation
    Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  1. Thanks for the tip! Finding one of those micro springs will be a challenge .... Lol ... Picked up a used Headlight Assy this last week at a reasonable price. Going to install and I'll report back the results in the next day or two.
  2. Quick question ... on the Tail Light sockets that use the dual filament bulb (have two connect points at the base), should these sockets have 3 wire leads going in to them? On my LH Tail Light, the upper far left socket has 3 wires, whereas the upper adjacent socket only has two wires (yet it's a dual filament bulb) ... This has me puzzled ... Thanks!
  3. In doing the cleanup on the Headlight and Turn Signal switch, I found a missing spring loaded nub pictured on a previous post and a broken piece as noted from a contributors post. Removed the rocker plates and existing spring/nub knowing I wouldn't have Headlights or Parking lights until I can procure a replacement. Current situation: LH & RH Brake lights are now functional (Original issue!) Reverse Lights Functional Hazard Lights Functional RH Turn Signal Functional LH Turn Signal NOT functional ... Arghhh! More diagnostics time!
  4. Ahh ... thanks for the assessment Zs-ondabrain; Do you know where I can purchase another swingarm or the necessary components? Would I need to purchase an arm to strip the pieces for my swingarm assy? Thanks!
  5. So the the saga continues ... Removed the Head Light switch and assembled the switch housing. On my previous post I mentioned that why was experiencing no difference between the Parking Light position and Head Light position. When I popped off the circuit board, I found out why. As pictured, I'm missing one of the two "spring loaded nubs." So there is a good chance the previous owner wired the headlights in a manner to bypass the parking light condition, thus my switch option is either Off or Headlights On. Any suggestions on how to replace the missing "spring loaded nub?"
  6. Ok, I spent the evening disassembling and cleaning the T/S switch. I've been following the continuity testing outlined on this website page: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ Either it's getting late and I'm losing focus or there are some errors in the continuity call outs. I'm showing that the connections should read something like the attached figure ... Please prove me incorrect! Thanks!
  7. Thanks again ... I'm glad I don't have a buzzer with the amount of time being under the dash over the last year ? I appreciate the lube suggestions. I've went through a quick continuity test per this posting on-line: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ and found a couple anomalies with the LH & RH conditions. Neutral, seemed to check out fine. I'll double check my work this evening, though it's looking like I may have to disassemble the switch housing. Thanks!
  8. Zs-ondabrain ... Thanks for the reply. #1 So I disassembled the console and pulled the T/S switch assy as well as the Headlight assy this evening. After removing the console assy, I was treated to some unidentified unconnected loose wires. #1 & #2 coming from the ignition switch assy; #3 & #4 coming from the wire harness that goes to the T/S and Headlight assy connectors. Any suggestions on those items? I cleaned up the T/S assy switches and housing using QD CRC Electrical Contact spray. Another issue I had before starting the LH brake light troubleshooting was that my indicator lever would never return to the off position after making a Left or Right turn. After inspecting and cleaning the small spring tabs, I can see why. The springs were seized and after a bit of cleaning they now move freely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxXZrUZbgkk After using the Electrical Contact spray, on the T/S switch assy, I'm sure the mechanically moving parts will need to be re-lubricated. Any suggestions on a type of non-conductive lubrication spray? #2 I purchased a new electronic flasher from O'Reilly's and replaced the flasher that was in the vehicle a couple months ago. Not sure it was an EF32 ... I'll check tomorrow. #3 I cleaned the headlight combo switch using the Electrical Contact spray noted above. Did not see anything abnormal with the switch assy. I am going to bench test both switch assy's with a continuity tester to see if anything behaves out of ordinary. Thanks in advance for any feedback!
  9. Thanks for the reply SteveJ ... So it looks like I have 3 issues to work through. 1. I'll pull the T/S off and see if some electrical contact cleaner will help 2. Not sure what's going on here. With the key in the ON position and engine off, I get no signal flashing. With the key in the On position and engine running, signal flashes - Sounds like another "creative" wiring issue 3. I'll need to address why there is no difference between the first and second position of the headlight switch. I did install the head light upgrade harness (via www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net) I don't believe that upgrade would cause this issue but I'll reach out to Dave and ask. Thanks! Nick
  10. Hey Guys, read through this post and rather create a new post, I thought I'd add to it ... I have a similar, issue but it's the Left Hand Brake lights (upper and lower lights) not functioning. I do have a couple anomalies that I've found during my trouble shooting of the issue: The Turn Signal switch (LH or RH lights) do not function unless the engine is actually started. Is this normal? On the Combo Switch, when I turn the switch to position 1, headlights function, position 2, no difference What is the difference between position's 1 & 2? Hazard Lights - Functional Reverse Lights - Functional Head Lights and Markers - Functional License Plate Lights - Functional Thanks! Nick '72 240z
  11. Thanks for the replies ... reached out to zcardepot.com this last week and it is indeed the seal for the hood/cowl. The first pic is the recommended direction. I'll need to trim a couple inches and use some adhesive with a couple clamps as it sets as recommended previously. Cheers!
  12. Thanks for the feedback everyone. Yes, the seal is about 4-5 inches too long, so it will be trimmed. I've reached out to zcardepot.com for some clarification and I'll report back when I hear something. Thanks! Nick
  13. Hmm ... I agree it doesn’t resemble what was there before, but there wasn’t anything else close in the kit having the shape. I’ll reach out to Zcardepot.com. Anyone have any pics of their seal in this area?
  14. Hello, I purchased a complete weatherstripping rubber seal kit from zcardepot.com. By process of elimination, I believe I've located the Cowl Hood Weatherstrip per the attached pictures. The p/n's on the individual kit pieces don't match zcardepot.com's website p/n's so it hasn't been a very straight forward task ... anyway, my question is, should the seal be positioned in the forward position (fig 3) or aft position (fig 1)? The original seal doesn't have the upper flat rather it was just a "u" shape that was fitted snug to the metal upright angle (fig 2)
  15. Where can I find the link to the "Blues tech tips"? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.