SteveJ

I'm not as courageous as you, Phil. When I did the ZX distributor transplant into the 73, I just got the ZX mount. No fuss, no muss, and the car had NO timing problems. Of course, now that I think of it...Tim, why do you need a new distributor mount?

Peter, I hope these pictures help you. IIRC I mounted the bracket loosely to the floor so that the bracket could still turn. Then I ran the bolt through the receiver end and through the bracket. I tightened up the bolt through the receiver, swiveled the bracket back into place, and finished tightening the bracket to the floor. Steve

There is also a relay in the passenger kick panel area. Look at the BE section of the FSM. I had problems with my horn recently. A new relay fixed it. Anyway, it's not a bad idea to test the old relay to see if it still works.

Here are some pictures of the mount I have.

I'll see if I can take some pictures tomorrow.

A friend (& member here) used Bob's Speedometer for his tach IIRC. He was pleased with the results, too.

280ZX gas tank: Look in the FSM for a 76 to see the fuel tank. Keep in mind that aside from the engines and transmissions, the S130 and S30 are very different cars.

It's highly unlikely that it would fit withou extensive modifications.

Did you take out the ballast resistor when you did the ignition work? If so, did you connect the wires on either side of the resistor to each other?

Send me a PM. I have one lying around in my garage.

It does work if you know how to use it. I have one, but I haven't used it much over the last couple of years. It can help in cases where someone has hacked into the wiring. However with the factory wiring, I can usually find about any wire just by using the wiring diagram.

The ZCC of Northern Virginia is a nice group of guys. If you noticed the thread on "Datsun Spirit", the person who is behind Datsun Spirit is a member. If you end up on the Maryland side of DC, there is also a club there. By the way, if you have the chance, you should try to visit Banzai Motorworks. He has some great restoration products and a really nice shop.

The S30 distributor mounts are different from the S130 distributor mounts. Having recently converted my 73 to a ZX distributor and having a ZX distributor in my 74 (installed by a PO), I would say that keeping the ZX distributor is the way to go if you're swapping a ZX motor into a Z. I found the distributor mount on eBay, and I bought a rebuilt distributor from Rockauto. It was pretty darn easy to swap it in electrically, too.

Yes, here. Mike McGinnis is a great guy to do business with IMHO.

This is what Amazon has for a mirror for that generation Sentra: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CM2V8A/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1 Does it look like it would work? I can't tell from the picture.

Yes, they are: http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1973/Nissan/240Z/ref=au_pf_cr_16?ie=UTF8&carId=001&partsNode=15732461

Ah, but who said it was done correctly? Also plugging the connector back in could have pushed out the pin holding the black/yellow wire. If it's a wiring issue, fix the wiring.

There is a saying, "The dose makes the poison." Higher levels of ethanol will affect rubber more than lower concentrations. I would also speculate that the higher level of ethanol would allow more water absorption into the gasoline, increasing corrosion in the steel components, as well.

I don't recall seeing those when I replaced the seatbelts in my 260Z.

The click you hear is the accessory relay. The coil energizes when the key passes through the ON position and de-energizes in the Start position. The ignition switch can go bad. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the switch. Turn the key to Start and check for continuity between the pins where the White/Red wire and Black/Yellow wire would go. If you have continuity at the ignition switch pins, check the continuity of the Black/Yellow wire from the ignition switch plug to the solenoid. If you don't have continuity, check the condition of the harness and check plug between the dash harness and the engine harness.

Please keep in mind that while some sites such as NissanPartsZone & Nissanparts.cc don't list parts as NLA, that could mean that the database just hasn't been updated, yet. I have found that out with many parts that I tried to order.

Thanks for tipping me off to the E-Z coils.

You aren't providing enough detail to get any sort of diagnosis. Synchros come into play with shifting. Is the car having problems going into gear? Is the loss of power momentary? Is the loss of power continuous until the car cools down? What is the temperature gauge reading when the loss of power happens? Wild speculation: Loss of power when the car gets up to temperature is frequently the sign of a failing electrical/electronic component such as the ECU, ignition module or coil. However, most of the stories I've read on here usually have the car cutting off when that happens.

As definitive as you are going to get is the factory service manual. Check the wiring diagram.

No, I won't be coming to ZDayZ. I have to admit that I've been put off somewhat about hearing what accommodations are like at Fontana Village.