SteveJ

Bruce, I'm not sure what you're asking. The FSM has the layout of the circuit on BE-61, shown below. This shows the complete circuit, including the connectors where the wires pass. Unless someone hacked into the wiring harness, the Green/White wire is probably still lurking around the space between the grille and radiator, most likely coming from the engine harness from around the passenger side.

Now you just need to get the Z badges for the center caps. Do the shoes mean that it's about ready to run?

If all of those check out, you could always go the route of installing a wideband O2 sensor and datalogging. It could tell you if the mixture is off on the top end.

Fuel pump relay/EFI relay depending upon the year of your car.

Sold separately? No. The horns should be in the space between the grill and the radiator. To determine what the 2 pin connector is for, look at the wiring diagram. It will tell you what color wires should be running to the horn. As for the three prong connector, post a picture of it, describe WHERE around the engine block you found it, and describe the wire colors going to it. Otherwise, you may just get more guesses than answers.

Just curious. Where did you hear/read that DGVs were easier? As for determining whether or not you have SU carburetors, there is this way. You could also download factory service manuals from the early model years. (I highly recommend downloading FSMs from different years, especially if you plan on putting parts together from different model years.) The bottom line is that those are early SU carburetors in the pictures.

I left it with the half twist.

I'm not as courageous as you, Phil. When I did the ZX distributor transplant into the 73, I just got the ZX mount. No fuss, no muss, and the car had NO timing problems. Of course, now that I think of it...Tim, why do you need a new distributor mount?

Peter, I hope these pictures help you. IIRC I mounted the bracket loosely to the floor so that the bracket could still turn. Then I ran the bolt through the receiver end and through the bracket. I tightened up the bolt through the receiver, swiveled the bracket back into place, and finished tightening the bracket to the floor. Steve

There is also a relay in the passenger kick panel area. Look at the BE section of the FSM. I had problems with my horn recently. A new relay fixed it. Anyway, it's not a bad idea to test the old relay to see if it still works.

Here are some pictures of the mount I have.

I'll see if I can take some pictures tomorrow.

A friend (& member here) used Bob's Speedometer for his tach IIRC. He was pleased with the results, too.

280ZX gas tank: Look in the FSM for a 76 to see the fuel tank. Keep in mind that aside from the engines and transmissions, the S130 and S30 are very different cars.

It's highly unlikely that it would fit withou extensive modifications.

Did you take out the ballast resistor when you did the ignition work? If so, did you connect the wires on either side of the resistor to each other?

Send me a PM. I have one lying around in my garage.

It does work if you know how to use it. I have one, but I haven't used it much over the last couple of years. It can help in cases where someone has hacked into the wiring. However with the factory wiring, I can usually find about any wire just by using the wiring diagram.

The ZCC of Northern Virginia is a nice group of guys. If you noticed the thread on "Datsun Spirit", the person who is behind Datsun Spirit is a member. If you end up on the Maryland side of DC, there is also a club there. By the way, if you have the chance, you should try to visit Banzai Motorworks. He has some great restoration products and a really nice shop.

The S30 distributor mounts are different from the S130 distributor mounts. Having recently converted my 73 to a ZX distributor and having a ZX distributor in my 74 (installed by a PO), I would say that keeping the ZX distributor is the way to go if you're swapping a ZX motor into a Z. I found the distributor mount on eBay, and I bought a rebuilt distributor from Rockauto. It was pretty darn easy to swap it in electrically, too.

Yes, here. Mike McGinnis is a great guy to do business with IMHO.

This is what Amazon has for a mirror for that generation Sentra: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CM2V8A/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1 Does it look like it would work? I can't tell from the picture.

Yes, they are: http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1973/Nissan/240Z/ref=au_pf_cr_16?ie=UTF8&carId=001&partsNode=15732461

Ah, but who said it was done correctly? Also plugging the connector back in could have pushed out the pin holding the black/yellow wire. If it's a wiring issue, fix the wiring.

There is a saying, "The dose makes the poison." Higher levels of ethanol will affect rubber more than lower concentrations. I would also speculate that the higher level of ethanol would allow more water absorption into the gasoline, increasing corrosion in the steel components, as well.