SteveJ

Just to remove the headlight, you either need to take off the front tire or turn the wheel all the way out (or is it in?). I take off the front tire myself. From there, you can remove the nuts that hold on the headlight. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil since that area was exposed to the elements for about 40 years. You can and WILL snap off the studs if you don't. I can't remember for sure what else you need to do besides loosen the screws in front to take off the ring that holds the bulb inside the shell. It's not that complicated, though. You'll probably need new headlight gaskets, too. Order them already from either Black Dragon Auto or MSA. I don't know if there is a good parts supplier in the UK. Someone else would have to tell you about the sugar scoops.

Are you talking about the headlights themselves or the sugar scoops?

If Dave can't fix your switch, look for one at this website or call them. http://www.datsunstore.com/ Oliver has a good reputation in the Z community.

Can you trace the wires back to connectors and describe the connector (number of connection points, number of wires with colors, and location of the connector)? That could help us figure out your mystery wires.

Are you sure it's only 1.13 inches? It's fed by a 2 inch vent hose.

What part of Atlanta are you in? Eddie Radatz owns a reputable shop. You can even meet him at the Georgia Z Club meeting this Thursday.

Check the voltage at the solenoid and at the battery. If it's getting a little low at the solenoid, it might not engage. Also, the back of the ignition switch could be wearing. If that is the case, you can replace it without replacing the whole ignition switch.

I've thought about making one, but with my schedule, thinking is all I can do about it.

Enrique, Here is a write-up that someone posted a link to at one time. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp I think that's what Chris is trying. I have all the ingredients to try it myself, except for one important ingredient: time.

Cool. That was what I was going to try, too. It's good to know that my wild ideas work.

I hope you're planning on using something larger than 16 AWG unless you want to replace some fried wiring. I can't remember for sure, but that white/red is at least 12 gauge. Using 16AWG is about the same as putting in a fusible link. If you add up the loads coming off the switch, you will find that 16 AWG won't cut it.

Don't add one bad kludge to another. The fuses are downstream from the switch. That is to say that the switch is between the battery and the fuse box. Please download the reference I mentioned before. Look at the circuits going to the steering column and ask questions. Several of us have studied the wiring diagrams in detail and are willing to help.

It wasn't by choice. It was for work, and unfortunately, it will require at least one return trip.

What schematic are you using? IIRC the supplement for the 71 has the white/red identified. It's about as close as you'll find for a 70 FSM online. You can download it from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.

That should work.

Have a battery with a disconnect wired in parallel to the charger. Start with the battery & charger and use the disconnect after the current starts flowing. You should have posted this a week ago. I just got back from a trip up to Scarborough. I could have helped you.

What voltage are you using? Are you hooking up the ground, too. The fuel pump uses a voltage divider.

What components in the charging circuit have you replaced lately? Also, for better quality answers, edit your profile to add the year of your car, or put it in each post with a question.

Unless your accessory relay contacts are stuck closed or someone re-wired the accessory circuit, leaving the rear defogger on couldn't drain the battery. As for testing the electrical system, use a multimeter with a 10A range for an ammeter. There is a Klein Tools MM200 at Amazon.com for a reasonable price. You can easily learn how to use an ammeter by searching online. Please note though, that a bad voltage regulator can cause the battery to drain when the car is off. If you look in the EE section of the FSM, you can find the location of the voltage regulator. If you need more of a visual, go to rockauto.com and find the voltage regulator for a 260Z.

You didn't say you needed those, too. Zeddfindings

Search here for TABCO. Unless you're buying fiberglass parts, pretty much all of the body panels will be from them no matter who sells them.

Dave, As you are waking up your Z, you might want to download a copy of the service manual from the link in my signature.

Even with an inertia switch, the fuel pump should have some kind of cut-off when the engine is stalled.

Like this.

FYI, if you still have a voltage regulator in the car, you can wire the (a) fuel pump relay like the factory did. Nissan used two sources for the coil on the fuel pump relay. The first one was from the solenoid for starting the car. The second was from between the alternator and voltage regulator. This way the fuel pump would no longer get power if the engine wasn't turning. If you have an internally regulated alternator, you should look into an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump relay.