SteveJ

The S30 distributor mounts are different from the S130 distributor mounts. Having recently converted my 73 to a ZX distributor and having a ZX distributor in my 74 (installed by a PO), I would say that keeping the ZX distributor is the way to go if you're swapping a ZX motor into a Z. I found the distributor mount on eBay, and I bought a rebuilt distributor from Rockauto. It was pretty darn easy to swap it in electrically, too.

Yes, here. Mike McGinnis is a great guy to do business with IMHO.

This is what Amazon has for a mirror for that generation Sentra: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CM2V8A/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&psc=1 Does it look like it would work? I can't tell from the picture.

Yes, they are: http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/1973/Nissan/240Z/ref=au_pf_cr_16?ie=UTF8&carId=001&partsNode=15732461

Ah, but who said it was done correctly? Also plugging the connector back in could have pushed out the pin holding the black/yellow wire. If it's a wiring issue, fix the wiring.

There is a saying, "The dose makes the poison." Higher levels of ethanol will affect rubber more than lower concentrations. I would also speculate that the higher level of ethanol would allow more water absorption into the gasoline, increasing corrosion in the steel components, as well.

I don't recall seeing those when I replaced the seatbelts in my 260Z.

The click you hear is the accessory relay. The coil energizes when the key passes through the ON position and de-energizes in the Start position. The ignition switch can go bad. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the switch. Turn the key to Start and check for continuity between the pins where the White/Red wire and Black/Yellow wire would go. If you have continuity at the ignition switch pins, check the continuity of the Black/Yellow wire from the ignition switch plug to the solenoid. If you don't have continuity, check the condition of the harness and check plug between the dash harness and the engine harness.

Please keep in mind that while some sites such as NissanPartsZone & Nissanparts.cc don't list parts as NLA, that could mean that the database just hasn't been updated, yet. I have found that out with many parts that I tried to order.

Thanks for tipping me off to the E-Z coils.

You aren't providing enough detail to get any sort of diagnosis. Synchros come into play with shifting. Is the car having problems going into gear? Is the loss of power momentary? Is the loss of power continuous until the car cools down? What is the temperature gauge reading when the loss of power happens? Wild speculation: Loss of power when the car gets up to temperature is frequently the sign of a failing electrical/electronic component such as the ECU, ignition module or coil. However, most of the stories I've read on here usually have the car cutting off when that happens.

As definitive as you are going to get is the factory service manual. Check the wiring diagram.

No, I won't be coming to ZDayZ. I have to admit that I've been put off somewhat about hearing what accommodations are like at Fontana Village.

If you live in the Southeast and within driving distance of Atlanta, you should consider coming to the Mitty. I got to meet Ron Carter & Carl Beck when they came out to the 2010 event with Peter Brock as the Grand Marshall. It's just a great car event, especially if you love vintage car racing. Here's a facebook link to the pictures I took this year. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2108968260901.59317.1746422012&type=1&aft=2109036582609&l=298948f7d0

You have to be a member of Facebook to see, but here's a link to pictures I took of a Show & Shine I was at today. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2109126224850.59320.1746422012&type=1&l=baeb8dee00

You can buy the club CD. The drawings are a little clearer. Contact Mike for details. I found the actual paper manual for 240Z & 260Z parts on eBay & bought it.

You can get the reverse switch pretty inexpensively at Rockauto.

It can be. What YEAR 240Z did it come off of? It looks pre 73 to me, but I can't be sure. You'll need bumper brackets from the correct vintage for mounting. I found some early ones on eBay, and I should get them soon.

I got the seat foam for my 260Z from Banzai, along with a few other parts. Mike is a great guy to work with.

I hope some of you are able to come out to the event.

The fusible link is easy to replace. It connects between the starter and the wiring harness. The most time consuming part is removing & replacing the nut on the starter where the ring for the link lands. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332 http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php

Could you have reversed polarity somewhere? LEDs don't like reversed polarity.

Very true. I put the part number in a post in the Sold on LEDs thread. It was the Bussmann 232.

To be pedantic (a trait that I'm good at ), LEDs have high resistance and low current. An incandescent bulb is a piece of wire that glows because of low resistance and relatively high current. As you noted, the Z does not monitor resistance in lighting circuits, so there are no worries about using LEDs. Though, I believe LED vendors are also selling devices to fool the onboard systems that do monitor resistance. It would essentially be a bypass for the circuit.

Matt, look for my Sold on LEDs thread. Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs will drop current flow through the circuit greatly. Also consider getting the parking light relay harness from Dave Irwin, aka Zs-Ondabrain. Also, unless you have more fuse boxes lying around, you might need to get the replacement fuse box from MSA.