M.Gwizdek

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About M.Gwizdek

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    West Allis, WI
  1. Time Left: 6 days and 18 hours

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    Hi All, I’m looking for a set of rear outer axle stubs for a 240Z. They must be in very good condition. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Mike

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  2. View Advert 240z Rear Axle Stubs Hi All, I’m looking for a set of rear outer axle stubs for a 240Z. They must be in very good condition. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Mike Advertiser M.Gwizdek Date 05/14/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  
  3. Hey Guys, It's been a few months but I was finally in town long enough to pull the head off to replace the head gasket. I noticed a hole that allows coolant to leak directly into the valve train area. It is located right above the thermostat housing mount. I've pointed to it in the picture below. I'm at a loss as to what happened. Any ideas? Can this be fixed? Thanks, Mike
  4. I understand how a leak down test would allow me to zero in on the cause. Thank you for the information. Unfortunately in my case it is pretty clear that the head needs to come off. I will definitely take your advice and will have someone check the valves. It will probably take me a bit to get the head off as I'm traveling, but when I do I will post some pictures and update you on what happens. If anything it will be good to follow up so others who find this thread can use the information. Thanks again to everyone for reading and replying. Mike
  5. I don't see any blow-by at the base of the head. Sounds like my next step is to pull the head and see what's going on. I certainly appreciate your suggestion of performing a leak down test, but at this point do you think it would help? Seems like the head has to come off either way. Can a head gasket be blown and still show relatively good compression? Thanks, Mike
  6. Maybe light brown is not the appropriate description, more like a tan color. In really isn't clear either. I tried to take a picture; it actually didn't turn out too bad. As for how it runs, I took it for a drive and it seems to run well at higher RPM, except the temperature gauge slowly crept higher than it usually runs. I took a picture to show the needle position. Typically the needle is at about 1/2. Incidentally when I started the engine I did not see any smoke from the tailpipe. I checked the plugs this morning and #2-#6 are black with a lot of build-up but #1 was closer to the tan color you would except (or hope) to see. What could this indicate? I'm new to diagnosing engine problems, so I appreciate all of your help on this. Thanks, Mike
  7. Well I had expected the results of the compression test to be different, but: 1. 150 psi 2. 150 3. 150 4. 150 5. 145 6. 150 I then pulled the valve cover. Everything looked good except for the oil. It is very light brown in color. I assume this means coolant has gotten in there? If so I would have thought the compression test would have shown something different? Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
  8. Can someone explain how a differential compression check differs from a compression check? I've never heard of this term before. Thanks, Mike
  9. Twin SU type carbs. The carpet caused the throttle to stick. The plume of smoke was white. I've owned the car for about a year now, I can only say that I haven't rebuilt them. I don't know if the previous owner had. I'd say the car is a daily driver during the nice months of the year on days with good weather. No fuel smell. Doesn't really sound like it is running out of gas, just dies at low RPM. As previoulsy stated, I've only owned the car for a year so I don't know much if any history on it. It has always run well for me. Thanks for all the replies. I will check the compression tomorrow after work and will report back. Mike
  10. Hey Guys, Today on my way home from work the throttle stuck momentarily on my '71. The RPM's shot up quite high (I have no idea how high as I was more concerned with getting the pedal to unstick) and a plume of smoke came out of the exhaust pipe. After that the car seemed to run okay until I got off the highway. At the stoplights the engine kept dying. I was able to crank it over by giving it some gas and keeping the RPM's up, but as soon as I let off the accelerator it would shut off. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
  11. Thanks for all the responses so far. The quick and easy thing to do is re-bleed the system. I'll do that tonight. If I still have the issues I think I'll replace the thermostat like Dan said. Thanks, Mike
  12. Hi All, I am having an issue with the coolant in my '71 240Z. After I drive it and it warms up I notice coolant in the seam of the radiator, which I've determined it is coming from the overflow spout. I assume it isn't normal that it pushes coolant out after only driving it 10-15 minutes in 50 degree weather? Then yesterday after I drove it I opened up the hood and heard a sizzling sound that seemed to be coming from the thermostat housing, although it was difficult to tell exactly. The radiator was new last year and I also replaced the radiator cap. Do I have a head gasket issue? By the way, the temperature gauge reads as it always has (although from what I understand it doesn't necessarily always work correctly). Thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help, Mike