SteveJ

Don't expect metal bumpers to be cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200765561432?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Oh, and you'll need bumper brackets from a 72 or earlier to mount the bumper.

Meh. Why put in old dried out belts that will break or be difficult to work with when for a few dollars more you can get brand new? IMHO that's penny wise and pound foolish. Plus, you don't have to spend the time looking around the junkyards, unless you just like roaming around for parts. I can understand that.

This is in a different direction, but I think the seat belts on either of these links could be modified to work. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/ll60.html http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/lb60.html - You can get these from 4 foot long to 9 foot long

Did you buy seat foam, too? Do you have early seats with webbing on the bottom, or do you have the metal springs on the bottom? I bought foam from Banzai Motorworks and upholstery from Black Dragon. After removing the seats from the car and the hardware from the seats, I found it easiest to cut most of the old hog rings. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut through the old rings. Note there are some metal rods that go through loops in the upholstery. Mine were bent up. I chose to replace most instead of trying to straighten them out. Wire clothes hangers are great replacement rods. Cut them to length and bend them to shape. Before removing the old upholstery, take some digital pictures to reference on putting it back together. I cut off the upholstery from the seat back. There are a couple of hog rings between the headrest part of the seat back and the lower seat back that you can only access after pulling the upholstery back. With the new seat foam, I cut the headrest portion off of the lower part of the seat back. I held the head rest in place with plastic wrap while pulling the upholstery back into place. After getting the upholstery over the seat back, I used tongue and groove pliers and slip joint pliers (pictures below) to bend the hog rings to hold the upholstery in place. For the seat bottom, remove the old upholstery. If you have webbing below the foam, replace the webbing and jute. Otherwise put on the new foam, upholstery and hog rings. Reattach the hardware and reinstall. If you have metal springs in the seat bottom and new foam, you will need to remove all of the spacers if you are 5'10" (1.78m) or taller. I didn't put in much detail because I found it all pretty straight forward to do even though I had never put on new upholstery before.

Digging into the flashers? They are easy to access under the dash on the driver's side. However, if you leave the front turn signals as incandescent bulbs, your old flashers should work, though they might blink at a slower rate.

Okay, so about a year later, I finally got around to replacing the lights in my tachometer with LEDs. After reinstalling, I noticed the turn signals didn't function correctly. I went back and replaced the LEDs in the turn signal indicators with the old incandescent bulbs, and the turn signals worked again. Apparently the Bussman electronic flashers still need enough current to flash at the proper rate. The drop in current with the LEDs caused the problem.

Funny, I just fixed the vapor locking problems on my 260Z. It was missing the insulation on the fuel line going to the front carburetor. I bought some Vulcan Fire Sleeve and slipped it over the fuel line. I drove it around in 90++ degree weather with no signs of vapor lock, despite the issues it had when the weather was 20 degrees cooler. What type insulation did you use on the fuel line?

You could try Bob's Speedometer. A friend of mine sent his tachometer there and was happy with the results.

It's all in the FSM.

Try contacting Zclocks.com. He knows the clocks well.

What are the colors of the wires going into it? It is a four pin relay with blue, green, green/yellow stripe, and black wires running to it? If so, that the brake warning lamp check relay.

Actually, Indy cars switched to ethanol in 2007.

Yes, unless someone can find an amazing catalyst for hydrolosis, Carnot rules.

Oh, you could use the stock motor for hydrogen, but I believe there would be a custom intake, and it would be much more that just something that looks like a water filter. I do agree that it's probably a Brown's gas folly. Most HHO enthusiasts are more interested in conspiracy theories than science and engineering.

But it is kind of funny to read what some have posted to the web. It all makes sense if you don't understand anything about chemistry or physics.

Hydrogen has a low energy density. You would need a large tank or high pressure tank to store. Fuel cells combine hydrogen and water to make electricity. Hydrolosis (breaking water down into hydrogen and oxygen, aka Brown's gas) requires more energy to create the hydrogen and oxygen than you get out via combustion. I remember discussions about Brown's gas over at Zcar.com a couple of years ago. I won't even justify a link to the thread. I am highly skeptical.

http://www.riwire.com/ They don't have a kit for the Z. You'll have to spec the wire colors needed.

I'm not sure where you read good things about Painless. Most of what I have seen was from people in pain. You can get replacement connectors from Vintage Connections. There is even a link on the site for a source to get wires in the same colors as the Z. The big advantage is that you can re-wire it according to the factory wiring diagram, and you won't have to figure out how to jury-rig anything. You don't mention relays for the headlights or running lights. Without those, you are asking for more problems. By the way, your link is bad.

Did you log in on the Classifieds site? If so, did you follow the steps after clicking on Place an Ad? If so, at what point did it fail? Post what went wrong on the forum for website bugs.

Here's a link to Courtesy Nissan Parts.

If you can extend your search to LA, you should be able to find one.

You may want to consider specialists for repairs. Zclocks has an excellent reputation for repairing Z car clocks. A friend of mine on this site has used Bob's Speedometers for his tach and had rave reviews on the quality of workmanship.

FYI: The 280ZX distributor is a nice swap into the 260Z. The module was also used on a wide variety of Nissan cars, so replacements are readily available.

Are you planning on getting a new clock, or are you going to send your old one to ZClocks?

I have to second what Zed Head said. When reverse was going out on my 73, I needed to replace the Master & Slave.