SteveJ

Oh, you could use the stock motor for hydrogen, but I believe there would be a custom intake, and it would be much more that just something that looks like a water filter. I do agree that it's probably a Brown's gas folly. Most HHO enthusiasts are more interested in conspiracy theories than science and engineering.

But it is kind of funny to read what some have posted to the web. It all makes sense if you don't understand anything about chemistry or physics.

Hydrogen has a low energy density. You would need a large tank or high pressure tank to store. Fuel cells combine hydrogen and water to make electricity. Hydrolosis (breaking water down into hydrogen and oxygen, aka Brown's gas) requires more energy to create the hydrogen and oxygen than you get out via combustion. I remember discussions about Brown's gas over at Zcar.com a couple of years ago. I won't even justify a link to the thread. I am highly skeptical.

http://www.riwire.com/ They don't have a kit for the Z. You'll have to spec the wire colors needed.

I'm not sure where you read good things about Painless. Most of what I have seen was from people in pain. You can get replacement connectors from Vintage Connections. There is even a link on the site for a source to get wires in the same colors as the Z. The big advantage is that you can re-wire it according to the factory wiring diagram, and you won't have to figure out how to jury-rig anything. You don't mention relays for the headlights or running lights. Without those, you are asking for more problems. By the way, your link is bad.

Did you log in on the Classifieds site? If so, did you follow the steps after clicking on Place an Ad? If so, at what point did it fail? Post what went wrong on the forum for website bugs.

Here's a link to Courtesy Nissan Parts.

If you can extend your search to LA, you should be able to find one.

You may want to consider specialists for repairs. Zclocks has an excellent reputation for repairing Z car clocks. A friend of mine on this site has used Bob's Speedometers for his tach and had rave reviews on the quality of workmanship.

FYI: The 280ZX distributor is a nice swap into the 260Z. The module was also used on a wide variety of Nissan cars, so replacements are readily available.

Are you planning on getting a new clock, or are you going to send your old one to ZClocks?

I have to second what Zed Head said. When reverse was going out on my 73, I needed to replace the Master & Slave.

If the door panels are from a 77 or 78, you probably don't want to waste your time. I know they have a different placement for the lock than the 74-76 panels. The 74-76 panels seem to be rather rare, too. It took me a while to find panels in good shape. I never have held up the 74-76 panels to the 73 to see if they would line up, though.

If the pricing is similar, I would be interested.

IIRC, the needle of the voltmeter, if it works like the other gauges, is on a spring to pull it back to 0. When voltage is applied, the needle is pulled to the right as you face the front of the gauge. It wouldn't surprise me if the spring has lost tension over the years. Remember, that the voltmeter reads voltage even when the car is off, so the spring would constantly be under tension. Remedies: 1. Try to find a good used voltmeter. (Just make sure the fuel gauge works on it, too.) 2. Change to VDO meters. 3. Get the old meter repaired. I know I posted a link for Bob's gauges or Bob's Speedometers somewhere. You can Google it, too.

If I can remember, I'll take a picture when I get home.

The solution could be as close as your own back yard. Try contacting Z Specialties. Oliver has a lot of parts.

I little work on Google gave me this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread35873.html. I think it will help you in your search since MSA might still have a compatible part.

Search this site for overrider. I think you will learn more about what you're looking for.

If you need the connector, you can find it at http://www.vintageconnections.com

All you have to do is search eBay for 240Z marker, and you'll find just the amber lights. I would recommend coating the backside with liquid electrical tape to reduce corrosion.

Are you talking about the entire light like what is shown in this auction? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-120Y-B210-240z-side-marker-lights-NEW-red-amber-/360454914256?hash=item53ecc980d0&item=360454914256&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

How old are the tires? Here are a couple of links to figure out the manufacture date of the tires: http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11& You've already had one tire fail. Are you going to be driving the car? Also, just changing one tire could significantly alter handling, especially under braking.

Assuming you have SU carburetors, have you checked the oil in your carbs?

When the humidity is low and the air is flowing through the car, 100+ isn't too bad. I drove my 73 many times in Northern California in those conditions. As long as you're moving, it was fine.