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SteveJ
Community Member
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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How do you know you didn't blow the fuse? Did you check it with a meter? Do you have the correct bulbs in for the side markers, turn signals and tail lights? Inspect for corrosion at the side markers. That will come into play later.
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The problem is that the setup in the photo does not move the fuel rail from the heat source. I fabricated a new heat shield for my car and reduced the temperatures at the carburetors by about 100 degrees. I also added more insulation on the fuel rail. It reduced the heat on the fuel rail, but it didn't eliminate it. I plan on moving it closer to the carburetors so it is better protected by the heat shield.
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If all else fails, I will be the guinea pig.
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Let me know, too. Do you know if they will fit on a 260Z slider?
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I could swear that I ordered some of the caps that go over the nuts. I'll have to check my hardware supply if I can remember it.
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Single castle nut from same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS-/221864836376
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS/222114221446
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Connect the vacuum pump to the hose where the mechanical pump would go. See if you can pull fuel through it. A hairline crack above the fuel level would may not show much/any fuel leaking out, but it might be enough to let air in. I have seen threads in the past where people found this was the problem with pumping fuel through the fuel lines.
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Look for cracks in the soft fuel hoses. That can introduce air into the line when you're trying to pump fuel. If you have a hand-held vacuum pump, try seeing if you can pull fuel up to the hose for the mechanical pump with it. If you have difficulty doing that, so will the mechanical pump.
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Yeah, but can you ship a valve cover to the Netherlands for $15.45?
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Fix the fuel lines. If one is cracked, others probably are, too. 5/16 line is what you want. Next, get the timing right. After that, adjust the valves. If you still have a backfire, then adjust the carburetors.
- 5 replies
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- cap
- distributor
- filter
- fuel
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Give me a heads up if you're coming back to track the car at Road Atlanta or Atlanta Motorsports Park. I'm only a half hour from either venue.
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Google is your friend in cases like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=setting+points&oq=setting+points&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3j69i61j69i60.2167j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
- 5 replies
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- cap
- distributor
- filter
- fuel
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Tagged with:
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That's what I thought. It fits with your part photos and with what Mark posted. If you look at this site: http://www.5speeds.com/t5/index.html, it will show you other T5 applications. The GM version looks like you could use bullet connectors on it, and it runs about half as much as the others.
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Just curious, is your reverse switch on the left or right side of the transmission? FYI. Looking through RockAuto, here are some of the part numbers I found: AIRTEX/WELLS 1S5283, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LS230, MOTORCRAFT SW1694
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It's good to see that your tie rods held up.
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Does that mean you have a line on a good one, Jason?
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Good, I already pulled the trigger and bought some.
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Chuck, Does that hose seem to be more flexible than the Nissan hoses? I noticed that on my front carburetor, the hose is almost kinked.
