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jeanp

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About jeanp

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Magog, Quebec, Canada

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Dodge RAM 1500 - 2017 (to tow my boat)
    Scion TC 2016 (daily driver)
    240Z 1971 HLS30-22027 (named Jo`s nightmare)

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  1. For those interested I found this post. I would have love finding it before a did my repair. But this is basicaly the fix I did. And there is a lot of pictures. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/
  2. I think i can help on this. Just re did all this wiring getting rid of unnesseary wires (those that are used for the points) It is pretty straight forward. Your Big black wire is from the ignition swith and is Ok on the rear side of the ballast resistor. the red that goes to the pertornic is suppose to be ther also (Nothing else on that post) In the front of the balast you have a green and yellow (this goes to the tach) on the negative of the coil the black that goes to the pertronic on the positive of the coil the black and White (this goes to the tach also) That is it Everything else is for the points and not required. Good luck!
  3. Ok found the problem The problem was in the flasher switch. I saw on the pdf diagram that midle position hooked gy-wr and wb so when you push the brake there is 2 mechanical contact pedal switch and the flasher switch. I disasembled the switch it is simple if you atemp this only concern is there is a litle ball bearing that sit on a spring that can be lost if you do not take care. Do not even think of disasembly in the car. I did crank the midle connector give back life to this little spring while i was there and reasembled. Give it try Bingo. I got brake light on left side back to work.
  4. Thank's for advises, I will go further front as in dash to body (the one passenger side) the 3 pin connector there I get 12,2 volts on both green red and green black wires when brake pedal is pressed. Front left flasher and hazard work fine. I did not think of going further front as i get the right voltage at (dash to body). Do this tonight i will be back.
  5. Thank's for reply, I have seen that post but it does not help me. I cannot figure why at on the pdf from this page connector dash harness to body harness I have 12,2 volts on both green red and green black in the back at rear panels connector i got 11.x volts on both sides a bit higher the side that it does not work (green red) if i jump wire one side to the other right to left lights work. If i do it on the connector dash harness to body harness left side works ???
  6. For those interested, I did change my inner choke cables with .055 piano wire. like http://woodworkerb.com explain and it works realy good that is a realy cheap fix. So i am done with the carb project. everything work fine there.
  7. Lines where new there was a round flat peace of junk the size of the hole in the botom of the bowl. it was stuck in the hole the hard part of the bowl not in the line itself. it was sometime closing everything and sometime open. It may have come from the job i had done on my fuel rails. I had them powder coated last winter also. So i cannot say that paltech left this there or it traveled from the fuel rail.
  8. Hi, Another bizare broblem, my left brake lights and flasher do not work anymore. this is what i tested. Bulbs OK, then I cleaned left harnest and connectors. did not solve anything. So started diag. Did a lot of looking around and figured that left feed is green and red wire and left feed is green and black. I checked in the from under dash right side there is a 3 pins connector with the green red (left) and green black (right) feeds. I jumped the brake switch (no partner to do these test) I jumped wired the feed green black to the green red left brake light where on did jump wired green black to green black right brake light where on (i presume my rear harnest is good from there) tried jumping green red feed to both sides (no luck there) test both feeds with a test light they both turn the test light on. test those feed with mutimeter both equals 12.2 volts. How can this be possible? I dont understand. Anybody have a clue? Ok did had a little drawing to explain maybe better. So test i did is under the dash i unpluged the 3 pin connector and crossed connected B to C to see the if my harness was good and actualy left brake light were bright as normal. Note also everything other lights works. backup light, and night light. Flasher do not work but i get same result if a cross connect it. electric.tif
  9. As per pertronics (they sent me a ground and voltage test sheet) i check resistance between aluminum plate of ignitor and batery ground they say max .2 ohm i got 0.0 they say test voltage car not running and running. on coil + i got 5.5 not running and 12.0 running (this is on the coil) before tach on the switch black wire i got 8.0 and 14.0 they say normal would be 14.2 on + of the coil is it normal that i loose 2 volts with the tachometer. I am wired like the attach drawing.
  10. The car is su carburators just rebuilt last winter, Timing and ajusting carbs is done. Plugs are new and gap verified. I did not notice any weard acting of the tach needle when this apen I can tell it does not loose fire on all cylinders probably one or two.
  11. I am thinking of my plug wires (they are not very old as per mileage) but they are 6 years old what is the average lifetime for these.
  12. Hi need help again, My car have a strange isue i saw a few post here that talk about it with no clear solution. I run pertronics pickup and 3ohm flame trower this worked fine for a few year 5 i think now it run inequal sometime it runs fine and sometimes at around 4k rpm it dies i lose fire on some of the cilinders and this only apens under load. I tried using 1.5ohm original coil same thing. tryied to bypass tachometer work for about 30miles than it started to do same thing, Note the 30 miles i did were on the highway and not to fast lets say around 70mph. any input would be great. Jean-Philippe
  13. Ok for those interested in this project. Did have a hardtime tuning the carbs. First there was a little peace of junk in the gas tube the hard part under the float bowl. This thing was acting like a butterfly but without control on it so sometimes the carb was ok and sometimes there was no or almost no gas going to the jet. It got obvious when at a moment it shut and stayed shut. After removing it I rebalanced everything And the carbs are running great now. Just need to change a choke cable that is not working properly. I would recommand Paltech Anytime. But you need to know how to adjust and debug carbs when you put them back in. This is not plug and play.
  14. Had a problem like this just remove the plastic between float bowl and btom of jet. Make sure it is not blocked. stick a unfold paperclip in the tube under the float bowl going inward the bowl it may be blocked.
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