SteveJ

There was a good discussion on this subject a while back.

http://www.classiczcars.com/store/ - If you want to support this site and keep it online http://www.carpartsmanual.com 24013-N3600 2 SEATER 2+2 SEAT ER MANUAL 24013-N3601 2 SEATER 2+2 SEAT ER Neither source would describe the difference between the two.

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/VIN.html

Give me enough notice. I might be able to go with you.

I had to dig up this old thread. Today at Caffeine and Octane (Atlanta's version of Cars and Coffee) a guy parked behind me with a 240Z. In the engine bay was a 2010 Camaro V6. He said he had to shave the oil pan to get it to clear on the bottom. Unfortunately, the pan material will soak in some oil, and he said the new welds were weeping some oil. So, it will definitely fit. I think the center console had to be modified to fit the manual transmission. Sorry, no photos now, but he doesn't live too far from me. If he starts showing up to club events, I will get some photos.

Yes, you should be able to jumper the contacts at the connector. I'll try to see if I have any video or photos of when I cleaned the switch.

Not too far from me is E. Radatz Motorsports. There are many more inside the building, too.

I'm thinking there might be a ground issue somewhere here. There aren't any dual filament bulbs for the turn signals, are there?

It looks like a good starting point to me. Mmm, factory air...after that trip to Memphis for ZCON 2015 (8 hours each way in 90+ degree weather), I have been thinking of how nice it would be to have AC every now and again.

Okay, after the Kenmeri thread, you KNOW you have to post pics.

http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/ It makes me wish I had a few thousand to spend.

Z31Atlanta organized a dyno day and opened it up to others. It was only $50 for 3 pulls, so I figured I would find out what the new motor was pulling. I played it conservative because I don't really know much about the actual build, telling them to cut off at 6000 RPM. After seeing the results, I would say I might have left some HP on the table, considering the best run was 122.5 HP (128.0 with WCF) at 6006 RPM (88.6 MPH - and me without a flux capacitor). Peak torque was 109.8 Ft-lb (114.7 with WCF) at 4575 RPM (65.5 MPH). The owner of the shop said it would probably top out around 150 HP on a Dynojet dynomometer. So any educated interpretations of the graph?

I was helping a friend last weekend sort out the same hack job where someone replaced factory FI with carbs and didn't do a good job on the fuel pump wiring. My friend and I tag-team. He provides the mechanical expertise, and I provide the electrical expertise. I'll send you a PM later.

If there was only someone in the Atlanta area who understood the 76 280Z wiring diagram to help you locate the factory wiring and safely modify it to work...

I found the wiring diagram you posted before. The 510 doesn't have the same potential for cross connections as the 240Z. The turn signal switch on the 510 does not affect the brake light circuit. Also the turn signals and brake lights only share a ground. They are in different sockets. The tail light housing serves as the grounding point for the bulb sockets.

Start with the left rear. Remove the bulbs and inspect the sockets. Look for a cracked insulator on sockets that take an 1157 bulb. Look to see if an 1156 bulb was used in a 1157 style base. (Single filament bulb in a dual filament socket) Test with the bulbs out. See if the problem remains. Also post that wiring diagram for the 510 again.

That's why I roll my eyes when I hear someone saying he wants to convert to carburetors because they work better and are more reliable. If I could afford it, I would install FI into my 260Z.

That was the reason I bought over twice as much braided hose as I needed. It gave me the opportunity for a few practice cuts.

Is this the tool you are referring to? http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

I'm glad you found it useful.

Stupid is making a mistake and never realizing or learning from it.

Considering your post from a few minutes ago, that was fast. Please share what you found.

You'll probably continue to have those problems until you remove the previous owner's modifications.

Another possibility, though it may be remotely is the resistor is dying or not making good electrical contact. I say remote because resistors usually fail open or closed, not displaying intermittent failures while dying. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Now that's a horse of a different color. If you hold the throttle at a certain position and the engine doesn't maintain speed, it's likely that the engine is running out of fuel. You need to check Fuel pressure Float levels Since you say you have already set the float levels, you might want to check fuel pressure. Here's the gauge I have in my car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIH38M. You will also need this adapter if you are running standard fuel lines: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00093CL3M. You should be running about 3 to 3.5 PSI IIRC. If you have enough pressure, then you probably don't have your float levels set properly. If the pressure is low then it's probably 1 or more of these: Weak/undersized pump Rust/pinholes in the pickup in the tank Kinked fuel line Partially blocked fuel line. Fuel filter that is getting loaded up with crap from the fuel tank. If you get to a point where you want to throw your hands up, I can refer you to a number of people in the area I would trust to resolve your problem.