SteveJ

If you are not able to track down one in good shape, I have one with a crack in it that I would let go for shipping. I will try to remember to post pictures. You'd need to find someone who is good with welding aluminum to fix it.

This link may help you. http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28561/what-are-the-benefits-of-a-lightweight-flywheel-and-why-arent-they-lightweight

This is how I see your situation. It can be difficult to impossible to figure out why someone ran extra wires around the car. Sometimes it was because the IPO wanted an extra circuit. Sometimes it was because the IPO was unwilling or unable to diagnose something properly, so he came up with a "fix". On my 260Z, I found a wire that ran from the positive of my coil, through the speedometer grommet, into the passenger compartment and all the way to the back. I'm still not sure what the intent was. I removed the wire and lived happily ever after. You may now find yourself on an accelerated learning curve on automotive electrical wiring. It is best to return the wiring to as close to stock as possible. It could be the difference between having a safe car or having an electrical fire.

No, President Skroob took my last can.

If the hazard switch does not re-establish the contacts for the turn signals, they won't work. You can test the contacts of the switch with a multimeter. Here's a breakdown on the hazard switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/

I can give that a shot.

This link should get you going. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Do you have the hazard switch plugged in? Is your hazard switch in good shape? It interrupts the turn signal power to the flasher.

Not sure. I just buy ethanol free gas. While I did experience vapor lock with the flat tops & stock exhaust manifold on one summer day, I didn't have these issues before the swap. I had this issue to some degree with the L26. The L28 is a higher compression motor, but I don't know why it would run hotter than the L26 with respect to the exhaust. I'm using a 160 degree thermostat.

I am quickly beginning to think there's much more going on than just a fuel pressure issue. Today I drove the car. It started up and ran great. I stopped for a few minutes to buy some Harbor Freight supplies, and the car ran like crap. I continued on to my destination where the car sat for about 3 hours. Starting out from there, the car ran great, but showed some hesitation after having some stop-and-go traffic for a couple of miles. When I got home, I pointed a fan at the carburetors and let it run for a few minutes. I took it for a drive, and there was some hesitation. I went back home and sprayed the ignition module (ZX distributor) and coil with a can of air held upside down. The car ran worse, so it wasn't an overheated ignition. I drove back home and put the fan on the carburetors again. About an hour later, I checked, and the intake was nice and cool. Going for another drive, the engine pulled great, with no hesitation. I feel that there is a big-time heat soak issue going on here. By the way, the car had ceramic coated headers and 4 screw SUs.

What's that? Come on. When are you going to ask me for help to get you a job down in God's country?

I took the Z out to go visit a new karting track with some friends. One of the owners is Jim Downing (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jim_Downing). When my friends were riding on a golf cart around the track, Jim asked if I wanted to drive around the track. He didn't have to ask me twice. He took a lap at slow speed and then said, "I think we can go faster the next time around." Yeah, I had fun.

Sorry for your misfortune. Couldn't you see if you could sell a kidney to cover your expenses? After all, you'll already be under anesthesia.

Basic electricity: Fuses don't really protect loads. Fuses protect wires. Go back in this thread and look at what we were telling you about fusible links. Some more details: The amount of current that can flow through a wire is determined by the size of the wire and type of insulation among other factors. The fuses are supposed to be sized to prevent going over the rating for the wire size/insulation type. The problem is that you have a dead short in that circuit. The fuses are protecting the wiring harness. Don't bypass the protection. With some of the wire hacking in that harness, don't be surprised if you need to pull the dash to examine the wiring harness.

The sources I found give the same transmission gear ratios, but the differentials are different. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

I have a set. Shoot me a PM

I have a BUNCH of fuel filters on the way. They should arrive tomorrow or Saturday. I might still take off the filter that's on the car now and cut it open.

Okay, so I spent some time with the car tonight. The first thing I did was install an autometer fluid-filled gauge in place of the Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge. The face of the Mr. Gasket gauge was fogged up from me getting some gasoline on it. Really? After the gauge was in place, I started the car. The gauge read 9 PSI. I shut the car down and installed the 1-4 PSI FPR. After creating some new curse words trying to get the lock nut loose on it, I started the car again. Pressure was low, around 2 PSI, and it was easily corrected by adjusting the FPR. I set it at 3 and called it a night. Now, I have to consider the possibility that there is some rust or other junk floating around in the tank. Until I have the chance to drop the tank, I'm going to put some rare earth magnets on the outside of the tank in hopes they will hold the rust away from the pickup. Thank you, all, for your suggestions.

As a starting point, start going on Youtube to find videos on how to use a multimeter if you don't already know how. Download the FSM on a computer, not on your phone. You may want to print out the BE section. It has some excellent breakdowns of the circuits. from there, you get to dig in and see what the hell the IPO (idiot previous owner) did. We can coach you through a lot. Also download the wiring diagram for your year Z from AtlanticZ. Philip did a great job cataloging the different diagrams. Be patient. If we tell you to do things a certain way, it's for safety, efficiency, effectiveness, or some combination of those. With patience you will gain knowledge, and you can enjoy your car for a long time.

Good to hear. I was helping someone locally this past weekend. I looked at the fusible link holder and saw regular wire there. I educated the father and son on the importance of having the right links. Fortunately, the son had purchased an engine wiring harness, and it still had good links. By the way, 20+ years ago, my brother had to educate me on the importance of fusible links.

So, not trying to pick at scabs, but did you replace your links, too?

You better be careful. If Randy thinks his car will be more historically accurate with your spook, he'll stop at nothing to get it.

Here's your standard Xenon air dam in the "I'm too cheap to paint it" black.

Go to http://www.carpartsmanual.com Look for the parts you're interested in. When you find them, look at the month/years it was used. Both of the parts listed for the fender liner (items 79 and 80 on the correct page) did not come into production until Jan 1974 and were used through May 1976. After that, a different part was used (part 82 on the same page). Depending upon the build date of your car, it may not have received these parts. These parts were very frequently removed from the car and are less common today than unicorn farts. If you are fortunate enough to find someone who has a set and is willing to part with them, you'll probably be paying dearly for it. It's too bad. I wouldn't mind having fender liners for my cars.

Oh, most of those disappeared from the cars a long time ago.

That is what I used in my 260Z.