jonbill

Is the current problem that you're not getting oil at the top of the engine when you crank it? The distributor timing has no bearing on whether the oil pump is pumping. Its probably just taking a long time to get oil round the engine from sitting so long. If you take the spark plugs out it will crank over faster. Also the chain and valve timing is independent from the distributor timing. Your cam sprocket and chain have nothing to do with your ignition timing or lack of oil.

What's the mechanism of oil getting in the intake runners from inside the Chambers? Reversion?

I think top layer in tri metal is lead or a lead alloy, not aluminium.

Aftermarket, I forget which ones. Reasonably priced tri metal from rockauto. I looked them up; Sealed Power.

When I built mine it did have that lateral clearance. But I didn't have to do anything to the centre bearings to get it.

What is the ignition advance at 4500 when the idle advance is 15? Why not leave it at 15? 15 sounds more like a reasonable idle advance to be anyway.

That k11 pump I fitted to my engine in 2016 is still going strong!

Yes you could weld it or even tap it to the nearest thread size and put a short price of threaded rod in with rtv on the threads and then grind it flush.

Yes I'd go for that I think if that's the choices.

I'd take the idle jets down to 54.

I'd guess that'll still be too rich. The air corrector only leans it out at the top end. So if the stock advice is 145 main and you're mods are a mild cam and exhaust I'd be going 150 as the next step.

Mass of fuel required

I mean they cost a lot. They would be very nice.

Do you do the lottery? https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-super-close-gear-set-71b-type-a-s30-s130-gc10-gc110-gc111-r30-c31.html

Are the rockers in? If not it really shouldn't need force or mallets to get the cam in the right position.

Or you can thread a couple of bolts into the other end of The crank and put a bar across them locked against the engine stand to stop the crank from turning.

I reckon there's leg pulling going on here. Or chain yanking or somesuch.

That's the sort of spring. But you don't have to use it like that. Here's how mine is setup with 2 of those springs. You can see them on the linkage by the filter on the cam cover.

Fs5c71a

I think they're fs5c71b boxes. I'll dig out a pic of a fs5c71a shift linkage. It's quite different but anyway, the huge giveaway is that the case is in 3 pieces and the B boxes are in 2 pieces like the C boxes. Edit: looked again and they've got brass synchros so they're fs5w71b

No one seems to think they're confused, yet everyone seems to say different things [emoji51] Do you think the cam timing/sprocket position number affects the tensioning of the chain? It absolutely does not.

Moving to hole 2 or 3 without moving the crank advances the cam and sprocket 4 or 8 degrees, in essence without moving the chain so that the cam becomes advanced relative to the cam. But since a chain link is not 4 degrees you'll nearly always end up moving a bit of slack chain to the tight side when you refit the sprocket (also making the Slack side a tad tighter) so then you turn the engine 720 degrees to tdc again to check the cam alignment marks line up as the should. The tight side will be as tight as it ever was. The Slack side will be as Slack.

I have a couple of these between my linkage and the valve cover to ensure it all closes. https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carburettors-parts/carburettor-parts-weber-carburettors-parts/dcoe-dcosp-parts/linkage-return-spring-lt5000/ I'm sure you'll be able to get something similar closer to home.

There's mixture screws per cylinder, throttle stops per carb, linkage per carb, possibly idle air bypass per cylinder and idle jets - all affect idle and off idle response. You Deffo need to get same air flow values for all cylinders at idle.

Turn the input shaft and if it feels notchy or gritty, it's definitely worn. If it doesn't it might be OK. Make sure you can select all gears. Not sure what else you can do.