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fairladyz432

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About fairladyz432

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    Washington

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  1. fairladyz432

    Figure 8 Seal (jet block assembly) solex 44phh

    Managed to get all the seals replaced, pretty easy for me to get the screws out and everything went smoothly. Thanks again!
  2. fairladyz432

    Figure 8 Seal (jet block assembly) solex 44phh

    Awesome photo, thanks for the help!
  3. fairladyz432

    Figure 8 Seal (jet block assembly) solex 44phh

    Thanks for reply, do you know which screws it is? Is it only one? Is it right underneath the area where the jet assembly block is? Do I need to remove the pump diaphragm to gain access? I think I remember seeing it but not sure
  4. Im having a bit of trouble figuring out how to replace a figure 8 seal that is supposedly under the jet block assembly? This is for a Solex 44phh carburetor i believe is type 5. Apparently the figure 8 seal isn't listed on the main blow up diagram.
  5. fairladyz432

    Oil pan metal bracket heat shield?

    Yeah looks like I’m gonna try to keep it there but will probably see how I can clear the shield from the header . Thx for tip
  6. fairladyz432

    Oil pan metal bracket heat shield?

    Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
  7. fairladyz432

    Oil pan metal bracket heat shield?

    Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
  8. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    thanks for the help. will report back
  9. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    so just to be absolutely sure, I should only be turning the crank when the head is on right? Or the other option is Leaving the head off makes it a bit easier to hold down the chain tension tool while cranking the engine to zero mark. As soon as the crank pulley is lined up to zero mark I can install the head on and then install the chain onto the cam sprocket and then remove chain tension tool. Does that sound right? Seems like the easier way, also the head is in correct position currently. I attached a pic of the head.
  10. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    Yep got the sprocket installed on the cam as well. Here’s a pic of the damper pulley with notch mark close by the zero marker. Do I rotate crank to line up the notch from the pulley to the 0 mark and that’s it?
  11. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    Sorry I meant to say do I leave in the chain block tool on right now as it sits to align the damper pulley to zero before I install the head?
  12. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    THANK a lot for the help, looks like I’m not too far. Do I have to remove the chain blocking tool (keeps the tensioner from falling out ) before I can crank the engine?
  13. fairladyz432

    280z L28 setting engine timing

    Im about to install my newly rebuilt head onto the block but before i removed the head prior to the rebuild i didn't set my timing to TDC with the cam lobes pointing upwards. The picture i attached is where it sits currently. I do know that the engine goes through tdc twice during the cycle so i think another turn will make it the correct TDC. Right now my head cam timing is in the correct position with the front lobes pointing upwards. Do i simply just install the head and then crank the engine slowly till it reaches the next tdc cycle? Any help would be great lol.
  14. fairladyz432

    Head gasket engine block surface prep

    yeah it make sense, dry should be more then adequate if done properly.
  15. fairladyz432

    Head gasket engine block surface prep

    Ok great responses, i did run a razor over the spots and did not catch so it looks like it is discoloration. I also used a thread chaser to clean out the threads and went in and out smoothly with out any issues (might run it through a second time just to be safe). I recently got my head rebuilt so it is for sure flat according to the machine shop. As for the engine block i didn't check for flatness since it ran pretty good prior to the head rebuild and i just cleaned off the old gunk with a 3m white bristle roloc disc lightly. Ill update this thread as i go but looks like a promising step forward to getting it all assembled back again. Is it recommended you spray copper gasket onto the oem headgasket before installing? some sources say its not necessary but i guess it wouldn't hurt to have extra sealing.
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