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fairladyz432

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About fairladyz432

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  1. Sorry I actually ended buying a brand new one to save the trouble in the future just as a matter of precaution. I think it ended up being my rebuild kit not sealing right or something.
  2. I have the same issues as well i think. Im trying to bleed my bmc off of my 76 280z and only seem to be able to bleed the rears but the fronts will not. The reservoir at the rear which sends fluid to the front brakes doesn't seem to move any fluid at all. Is that what you had a problem with too? I bought a rebuild kit and installed correctly to the best of my knowledge. Do you guys recommend i take it apart agian and check everything and try to do a bench bleed? Even the rear brakes seem to take forever to bleed out the air bubbles.
  3. Managed to get all the seals replaced, pretty easy for me to get the screws out and everything went smoothly. Thanks again!
  4. Thanks for reply, do you know which screws it is? Is it only one? Is it right underneath the area where the jet assembly block is? Do I need to remove the pump diaphragm to gain access? I think I remember seeing it but not sure
  5. Im having a bit of trouble figuring out how to replace a figure 8 seal that is supposedly under the jet block assembly? This is for a Solex 44phh carburetor i believe is type 5. Apparently the figure 8 seal isn't listed on the main blow up diagram.
  6. Yeah looks like I’m gonna try to keep it there but will probably see how I can clear the shield from the header . Thx for tip
  7. Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
  8. Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
  9. thanks for the help. will report back
  10. so just to be absolutely sure, I should only be turning the crank when the head is on right? Or the other option is Leaving the head off makes it a bit easier to hold down the chain tension tool while cranking the engine to zero mark. As soon as the crank pulley is lined up to zero mark I can install the head on and then install the chain onto the cam sprocket and then remove chain tension tool. Does that sound right? Seems like the easier way, also the head is in correct position currently. I attached a pic of the head.
  11. Yep got the sprocket installed on the cam as well. Here’s a pic of the damper pulley with notch mark close by the zero marker. Do I rotate crank to line up the notch from the pulley to the 0 mark and that’s it?
  12. Sorry I meant to say do I leave in the chain block tool on right now as it sits to align the damper pulley to zero before I install the head?
  13. THANK a lot for the help, looks like I’m not too far. Do I have to remove the chain blocking tool (keeps the tensioner from falling out ) before I can crank the engine?
  14. Im about to install my newly rebuilt head onto the block but before i removed the head prior to the rebuild i didn't set my timing to TDC with the cam lobes pointing upwards. The picture i attached is where it sits currently. I do know that the engine goes through tdc twice during the cycle so i think another turn will make it the correct TDC. Right now my head cam timing is in the correct position with the front lobes pointing upwards. Do i simply just install the head and then crank the engine slowly till it reaches the next tdc cycle? Any help would be great lol.
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